Talked with my dealer about this today and got a quote. Holy Crap, they quoted over twice as much for the parts as what I found online. That was even before local sales tax was added.

I showed them where I was looking and the amounts. They said they could not, basically would not, budge from the quoted amounts. You would think that since both places are Ford dealers that the local dealer would be in at least the same ball park as online prices for the cost of OEM parts for an Ford dealer. I can see some variation for shipping costs. But how much do you have to make off your parts department? Guess I don't want to get non-warranty part repairs done there.

They quoted an additional 2 hours labor above the time required for a differential service to install OEM brake parts. This is even if I get my own parts else where.

Now does that make any since? Wouldn't you think they would want to make a little on the parts rather than nothing? Their hourly rate is a published amount, so it is not like they are going to gouge me on the hourly labor rates. What the heck, this just does not make any sense to me at all. But hey, it's my money. So the savings will more than pay for the differential service and install.

Now to get the parts ordered...

 

I am considering the same upgrade. Where did you decide to order the parts from?

 

When I bought my parts, I ordered the 13/14 rotors from rock auto and the adapter brackets from the guy on SVTP

 

The best prices I have found are at Autonation White Bear Lake and Sunrise Ford in LA. Here are the links to them. Still looking. I have bought from both of these before with no issues. White Bear Lake was a much bigger purchase and were great to deal with. I even had a return and it was painless. Right now Autonation is slightly less, but last week were about $20 more.

http://parts.autonationfordwhitebearlake.com/auto-parts/2014/ford/mustang/shelby-gt500-trim/5-8l-v8-gas-engine/brakes-cat/brake-components-scat

http://www.sunrisefordparts.com/SRF-...ra-s/47682.htm

Prices I found...
First is Autonation, second is Sunrise.

EDIT: Notice I have added the GT500 Brake pads to the list. Thought while I was doing it I would get new pads (only 13k on the car now). I have found that the Trackpack Cars have the same rear pads as the GT500. The others do not.

 

Thanks, this helps. I am considering the upgrade the next time I need pads/rotors, which will probably be in the spring. Just planning ahead now.

 

Just ordered the caliper relocation brackets. Next is rotors and pads for all 4 corners.

 

Guys, do yourselves a favor, look earlier in this thread for the link to the guy who sells the brackets for about $100/pair. Those brackets and the GT500 rotors are all you need.

I know a guy who is using these on the road track under about 5X the abuse that you will ever give them on the street, and they are holding up fine. He breaks everything but hasn't broken those brackets (yet) . . . the parts will cost you a lot less and the install will be a lot easier and cheaper too.

 

Hey, I don't break EVERYTHING! Just some less robust parts 😋

But yes, I've been racking up track miles on these with no issues.

 

I have the adapter brackets from Ebay and will be getting rotors from Pete at Track Day solutions.

 

Pete is great and I highly recommend working with him for parts

Also, I have to give a high recommendation to Morris Engineering (Matt) for their 2 piece rotors that have been phenomenal for me and are a great deal price wise. Not sure if he's doing rear rotors right now, but for front's, I'm hooked. They made a huge difference in my braking this year - have not had fade once and haven't even bled my brakes in like 6 events. I use Castrol SRF so wet boiling points are not a concern... but that aside, top notch product and top notch customer support.

 

I have seen the aftermarket bolt on adaptors and just prefer to go the factory route. The cost isn't prohibitive and I will do the install the next time I need brakes. I also plan to replace the factory steel differential cover with the Ford Racing finned aluminum one since I like how it looks and it should aid with cooling.

 

Talked with a Ford Master Mechanic from one of the other local dealers. He is supposed to be one of the top mechanics for Ford in the Northwest. This was not from him, but others I talked to. A real true Ford guy, has all the Ford certifications. He recently was called in to help with a 2016 SEMA Resto-mod of a 1965 Mustang when no one else could get the new coyote they had install to start. Said they had the wiring all screwed up. Sharp guy, seemed to know his stuff and was not one of those "I know everything" types, pretty quiet really.

He saw no issues with the swap. Even though he had not done one, he thought it would be a piece of cake to do. He liked the idea, especially since it did not require a caliper swap. He offered to help and gave me prices for the parts at his cost. The prices I found online are still less, so I will go that route.

I am putting the car away for the winter today, so I guess this will wait until I pull it out for the spring. Still planning on sticking with the full OEM Part swap. I was quoted around 2 hours labor on top of a $118 differential service. Sounds like it will be somewhere around $750, give or take, for parts and labor to complete.

 

I have the adapter brackets with Gt500 rotors, and hawk 5.0 pads.
I'm very happy with this set up on the street and for auto cross.
Adds a little more rear brake bias, but I like it better this way.

 

Guess I am ready to pull the trigger on this as soon as I figure out one more thing. I think I still have one part number to find. Sent off a request to my parts contact. But, does anyone know how a Torsen Differential compares to a standard differential in how it locks the pinion gear or Torsen assembly in place? From what I read on the install there is a locking screw that needs to be removed and replaced to pull the axles. I can't seem to find the part number of the Pinion Locking Screw for the Torsen Diff, is there a comparable part? What did anyone else who did the OEM bracket install do with this?

Below is all the other parts needed if you want to have all new parts when replacing the mounting brackets with the OEM GT500 brackets. I have checked all over and my best bet even with shipping is going through AutoNation Ford in White Bear Lake (Tousley Ford). Chris is awesome to deal with. He verified I had the right parts. He suggested the caliper swap, but from what I understand with a 2014 Brembo/Track Pack cars that is not required. (Anyone want to correct or confirm this for me?)

So these are the best prices I could find. I checked many many locations. Got the best deal through fordparts.com using Autonation as my dealer. This was suggested by Chris. Cut my shipping by more than half.

 

I did the upgrade a couple of weeks ago. You do not have to remove the pinion gear or the differential carrier to pull the axles. On the Trac Lok this is accomplished by removing the differential pinion shaft bolt and the differential pinion shaft before pulling the c clips out. This is actually inside the differential and doesn't affect the ring and pinion set up. On the Torsen you have to pull the thrust block retaining pin and the thrust block, but I do not know the part numbers. You should be able to google Torsen T2R thrust block and find the parts.

 

So what are your thoughts on the change? Did you have to do anything with the calipers?

 

I didn't have to do anything with my calipers, they cleared just fine. From everything I have read you do not have to do anything with the 2011 and later calipers. One thing, though the bolt kits for the caliper mounting brackets were not available through Ford. Tasca Ford shipped the caliper mounting brackets first and then after a couple of weeks, I got a notice that the bolts were not available anymore. I reused the original bolts with a little loc tite just for good measure. I haven't had any issues so far. I used DBA 4000 series rotors to match what I already had on the car with Hawk pads. I can't tell a difference in brake feel with the larger rotors. They look a lot better and fill out the 19" wheels more. I haven't had a chance to get it on a road course yet to see what kind of temperatures I am getting. I was supposed to be at Sebring, but the event I was registered for cancelled due to low enrollment. I am going Sebring next week with NASA FL, so I will have a better impression in a couple of weeks.

 

I've been thinking about doing this for a while now, and since my brakes are almost due. I would love to have bigger rotors in rear just for the cosmetic view but DID NOT expect to pull the axle out...seems like more of a design flaw than anything.

Does every other car requires axle/differential part removed to swap or replace the rotors? Or is this because we have the solid axles?

How long do the rotors last normally. I'm at little over 38K and thinking just replace the pads? I mean, there's no Ford Performance Dept near me to help and I'm not DIY savvy with no tools or space. How do we even pull the axle. Cost doing this at local shops. Ehhh...

 

Parts are ordered!

Yea! Looks like everything was in stock except the flanged nuts for the back of the adapters. Is that what you could not get? Those are spendy nuts. Sounds like new ones are not necessary? Thanks for the update EF1!


Don't have to pull the axles if you go this route. I just decided I would rather go OEM. There have been plenty out there that have used these adapters with great success, and saved a bunch of $$$. Most that are backing are using at the track. So, part is plenty durable. I know these are gone, but search for the seller and there is likely another set waiting for you.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/05-14-Mustan...976?rmvSB=true

 

There are pros and cons of each method of upgrading to larger rear rotors. If you go the OEM route it costs a little more and you have to pull the rear axles. It really isn't a big deal and takes less than 3 hours. Once done you have options as to which rotors you choose to use. Any rotor for the 13-14 Shelby GT500 will fit and there are several options out there. It is also a good time to change the rear differential lube and upgrade to a cover with a drain plug since it has to come off anyway.

If you go with the adaptor brackets it is easier and a little cheaper, but in every case I have seen you have to use the rotors in the kit with the adaptors. They are not the same size as the factory 13-14 GT500 rotors so you do not really have any choices.

In either case durability isn't an issue. Personnally, I like the look of the OEM set up and the availability of rotors from multiple sources/manufacturers, besides, the cost isn't that much more to go OEM.