GT Rear Brake Upgrade
#21
Like joey said, all big brake upgrades are really for track use where they have to stand up to the heat of repeated braking from high speed. That and looks . . . plus they do feel more powerful (sensitive) under your foot but don't really stop the car much quicker.
#23
Originally Posted by Glenn
How much more stopping power does this mod really give you. Yes it looks much better but does it make a world of difference? How many feet can you shave off your stopping distance from say 60 mph?
#24
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Originally Posted by Glenn
How much more stopping power does this mod really give you. Yes it looks much better but does it make a world of difference? How many feet can you shave off your stopping distance from say 60 mph?
How much more stopping power does this mod really give you. Yes it looks much better but does it make a world of difference? How many feet can you shave off your stopping distance from say 60 mph?
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I can't find the thread now, but the first time I'd heard about this mod, the OP of that thread was struggling with the rear brakes overheating at the track unless he turned off TC and SC, which he was not comfortable doing. Adding the larger rotor allowed him to leave the nannies on at the track.
I think I am the original OP you are referring to. The stock 11.8" GT rear brakes are fine for street use. But at the track (road course), these will overheat like crazy, after only a few laps. Moving to the 13.8" upgrade solves this problem perfectly. Heat dissipation, fixed.
(my original TMS thread = https://themustangsource.com/forums/...pgrade-537228/)
#25
Originally Posted by PJRManagement
[/I]
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I think I am the original OP you are referring to. The stock 11.8" GT rear brakes are fine for street use. But at the track (road course), these will overheat like crazy, after only a few laps. Moving to the 13.8" upgrade solves this problem perfectly. Heat dissipation, fixed.
(my original TMS thread = https://themustangsource.com/forums/...pgrade-537228/)
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I think I am the original OP you are referring to. The stock 11.8" GT rear brakes are fine for street use. But at the track (road course), these will overheat like crazy, after only a few laps. Moving to the 13.8" upgrade solves this problem perfectly. Heat dissipation, fixed.
(my original TMS thread = https://themustangsource.com/forums/...pgrade-537228/)
#26
Thanks for the reminder. I couldn't remember the specifics about using TC and SC. Reviewing your thread, it was when 5.M0NSTER said he had no issues but drive with the nannies off. IMO if one is planning on driving with the nannies off this mod may be diminishing returns.
Even with the Advance Track off, the stock rear brakes still get real hot. Mine were running about 100 degrees hotter than the front (after a cool down lap, probably more during the session).
The larger rotors brought the rears down to about the same temp as the front, or a little cooler, which is how it should be.
#27
On road track, IMHO, you really want both Traction Control and Advance Track full off so they do not interfere. When you are getting close to the limit you don't want the system all of a sudden doing something that changes the way the car is behaving, that will cause trouble. I have had an issue where Advance Track comes back on, and I swear it spun me twice. (could have been driver error too, of course)
Even with the Advance Track off, the stock rear brakes still get real hot. Mine were running about 100 degrees hotter than the front (after a cool down lap, probably more during the session).
The larger rotors brought the rears down to about the same temp as the front, or a little cooler, which is how it should be.
Even with the Advance Track off, the stock rear brakes still get real hot. Mine were running about 100 degrees hotter than the front (after a cool down lap, probably more during the session).
The larger rotors brought the rears down to about the same temp as the front, or a little cooler, which is how it should be.
#28
Originally Posted by dmichaels
I also get less rotor cracking with the larger ones in the rear since they run cooler. But agree with Bert, now my rears are about the same temp as the fronts and all brake pads and fluid are happier. The brake bias is adjusted with pad selection, and I'm very happy with the 13.8" rear rotors. Just cracked my first one at my last event and the previous rotors had close to 2000 miles on them
#29
#30
But actually I would be more concerned about the original brackets between the add-on bracket and the axle; that is where the added stresses would show up. Assume you checked those too.
Last edited by Bert; 10/2/16 at 06:44 AM.
#31
That makes me feel a LOT better . . . if YOU aren't breaking them on the track, NOBODY will!
But actually I would be more concerned about the original brackets between the add-on bracket and the axle; that is where the added stresses would show up. Assume you checked those too.
But actually I would be more concerned about the original brackets between the add-on bracket and the axle; that is where the added stresses would show up. Assume you checked those too.
#32
Thread Starter
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From: Idaho
Here are the best Prices I have found so far... They are online at Sunrise Ford in LA...
Priced so that I have an all new setup. Not sure if I really need the nuts and bolts replaced since I just crossed 13K miles. Usually a good idea to start out with new ones though.
So I can pick this up for somewhere between $280 TO $318 shipped. Prices include shipping at this location.
Now to see if I can get my dealer to beat these parts prices. If not will they be willing to just do the install or is it going to become a winter project...
Priced so that I have an all new setup. Not sure if I really need the nuts and bolts replaced since I just crossed 13K miles. Usually a good idea to start out with new ones though.
So I can pick this up for somewhere between $280 TO $318 shipped. Prices include shipping at this location.
Now to see if I can get my dealer to beat these parts prices. If not will they be willing to just do the install or is it going to become a winter project...
Last edited by shaneyusa; 10/3/16 at 07:26 PM.
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shaneyusa (10/5/16)
#34
Just a reminder in case it wasn't already clear above:
the easier and cheaper way to do it, is to buy the adapters from the guy on E-Bay or SVT forum, and just get the larger rotors from Tasca or Rock Auto or whoever (pretty sure all the details and links are earlier in this thread)
the easier and cheaper way to do it, is to buy the adapters from the guy on E-Bay or SVT forum, and just get the larger rotors from Tasca or Rock Auto or whoever (pretty sure all the details and links are earlier in this thread)
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shaneyusa (10/5/16)
#35
Originally Posted by Bert
Just a reminder in case it wasn't already clear above:
the easier and cheaper way to do it, is to buy the adapters from the guy on E-Bay or SVT forum, and just get the larger rotors from Tasca or Rock Auto or whoever (pretty sure all the details and links are earlier in this thread)
the easier and cheaper way to do it, is to buy the adapters from the guy on E-Bay or SVT forum, and just get the larger rotors from Tasca or Rock Auto or whoever (pretty sure all the details and links are earlier in this thread)
#36
http://m.ebay.com/itm/05-14-Mustang-14-Rear-Brake-Rotor-Adapter-Brackets-GT-Boss-302-GT500-V6-13-8-/152249146338?hash=item2372c19be2%3Ag%3AjgQAAOSwF1dUTPnF&_trkparms=pageci%253A3d345db2-8b5d-11e6-bbee-74dbd1e066af%257Cparentrq%253A976d9c771570a2a3d5b0a8e3ffff803e%257Ciid%253A2
#39
thanks D, Yep, those are the same ones I was talking about.
Link was also posted earlier in this thread, look back because there is a link to the same guy selling them on another forum but cheaper without the e-bay commission
Link was also posted earlier in this thread, look back because there is a link to the same guy selling them on another forum but cheaper without the e-bay commission
Last edited by Bert; 10/5/16 at 09:42 PM.
#40
Thread Starter
2014 SGM Roush Stage 2 --------- Moderator------
Joined: July 7, 2013
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From: Idaho
Thanks!
I checked with them and AutoNation White Bear Lake (was Toulsey Ford). Prices were better at both, but by the time I added in shipping it was not as good as the ones posted. Sunrise Ford is a tad higher on the parts, but without any additional shipping costs it is the winner so far.
I know no one has seen any issues with adapters. I just have my concerns. When it comes to something as important as stopping, I just am not willing to take the risk. It usually does not end well for me when I take the easy way out. So I plan to swap to the GT500 adapters.
I would like to get my Tranny and Rearend serviced soon anyway. So I plan to do the differential and mod at the same time. It will depend on the what I find out from the dealer for prices of parts or if they will install when buying else where. They have for other mods before.
I checked with them and AutoNation White Bear Lake (was Toulsey Ford). Prices were better at both, but by the time I added in shipping it was not as good as the ones posted. Sunrise Ford is a tad higher on the parts, but without any additional shipping costs it is the winner so far.
Just a reminder in case it wasn't already clear above:
the easier and cheaper way to do it, is to buy the adapters from the guy on E-Bay or SVT forum, and just get the larger rotors from Tasca or Rock Auto or whoever (pretty sure all the details and links are earlier in this thread)
the easier and cheaper way to do it, is to buy the adapters from the guy on E-Bay or SVT forum, and just get the larger rotors from Tasca or Rock Auto or whoever (pretty sure all the details and links are earlier in this thread)
I would like to get my Tranny and Rearend serviced soon anyway. So I plan to do the differential and mod at the same time. It will depend on the what I find out from the dealer for prices of parts or if they will install when buying else where. They have for other mods before.
Last edited by shaneyusa; 10/22/16 at 07:05 PM.