2010-2014 Mustang Information on The S197 {GenII}

Got dam #8 got me

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Old Jun 4, 2016 | 04:17 PM
  #41  
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From: Yukon, OK
Thanks...was wondering about longevity since I'm running 7.5 PSI. 27K at 10 PSI on stock internals not bad.
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Old Jun 4, 2016 | 04:37 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by SpectreH
Thanks...was wondering about longevity since I'm running 7.5 PSI. 27K at 10 PSI on stock internals not bad.
Tune was pretty aggressive and low on coolant, not a good combination. You'll be fine.
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Old Jun 4, 2016 | 07:26 PM
  #43  
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Did you have some detonation?
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Old Jun 4, 2016 | 08:57 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Blown CS
Did you have some detonation?
Unsure, but I was a bit surprised that the driver's side knock sensor was not plugged in considering I bought the car new.
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Old Jun 5, 2016 | 07:14 PM
  #45  
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From: Knoxville, TN
Originally Posted by slow.stang
Unsure, but I was a bit surprised that the driver's side knock sensor was not plugged in considering I bought the car new.
is it possible the sensor was unplugged during the SC install?
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Old Jun 5, 2016 | 08:03 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by EastTN15RubyRed
is it possible the sensor was unplugged during the SC install?
The knock sensor is underneath the intake and I've never been anywhere near it except for this job. I plugged it in and tried "accidentally" unplugging it, couldn't do it. It was quite difficult to intentionally unplug the driver's side sensor.
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Old Jun 6, 2016 | 06:59 AM
  #47  
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From: Indianapolis
how would you not get a code...that's ****ed up
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Old Jun 6, 2016 | 07:32 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Coyote5-0
how would you not get a code...that's ****ed up
Same thing I wondered, maybe it had contact as it was in place, but obviously not snapped in. I really don't see how it could have been making contact though.
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Old Jun 6, 2016 | 08:00 AM
  #49  
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OBD 1 vehicles will not throw a code so you can unplug it and run without the Knock sensors if you want to. OBDII however will throw a code if it doesn't sense the knock sensor is there. If it was unplugged you would have noticed that it was unplugged as it would pull the timing and cause the car to feel sluggish and possibly even send the code into Limp Mode if it is bad enough.
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Old Jun 6, 2016 | 09:02 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by ford20
OBD 1 vehicles will not throw a code so you can unplug it and run without the Knock sensors if you want to. OBDII however will throw a code if it doesn't sense the knock sensor is there. If it was unplugged you would have noticed that it was unplugged as it would pull the timing and cause the car to feel sluggish and possibly even send the code into Limp Mode if it is bad enough.
If what is bad enough?
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Old Jun 6, 2016 | 10:15 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by slow.stang
If what is bad enough?
If it had to cut timing far enough or dump fuel.
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Old Jun 6, 2016 | 02:34 PM
  #52  
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Got Dam... this thread LIVES!

Interesting updates though. So '16 with a Whipple?
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Old Jun 6, 2016 | 03:12 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by FromZto5
Got Dam... this thread LIVES!

Interesting updates though. So '16 with a Whipple?
It will be a screamer.
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Old Jun 6, 2016 | 04:40 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by FromZto5
Got Dam... this thread LIVES!

Interesting updates though. So '16 with a Whipple?
That is the plan as of today, but I change my mind everyday on the topic. Priced out the Whipple, long tubes, 800 HP axles, and driveshaft it was about 10k. Thinking of going auto although I know I'll miss the manual.
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Old Jun 6, 2016 | 09:44 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by slow.stang
That is the plan as of today, but I change my mind everyday on the topic. Priced out the Whipple, long tubes, 800 HP axles, and driveshaft it was about 10k. Thinking of going auto although I know I'll miss the manual.
That's actually a good price. For any blower alone you're looking at 5-6k for parts.
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Old Jun 7, 2016 | 06:52 AM
  #56  
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From: CT
Originally Posted by slow.stang
That is the plan as of today, but I change my mind everyday on the topic. Priced out the Whipple, long tubes, 800 HP axles, and driveshaft it was about 10k. Thinking of going auto although I know I'll miss the manual.
Oh yes. That ought to be amazing. The newer Coyotes apparently can withstand a lot more boost...but I gather that you'll still need upgraded OPGs.

Originally Posted by FromZto5
That's actually a good price. For any blower alone you're looking at 5-6k for parts.
+1

It looks like slow.stang is able to do his own wrenching...which is the only way this is possible. I give him respect for that.

Oh, sure...I could do the install myself too but it would take me months...or years!
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Old Jun 7, 2016 | 06:56 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by MRGTX
Oh yes. That ought to be amazing. The newer Coyotes apparently can withstand a lot more boost...but I gather that you'll still need upgraded OPGs.



+1

It looks like slow.stang is able to do his own wrenching...which is the only way this is possible. I give him respect for that.

Oh, sure...I could do the install myself too but it would take me months...or years!
My new 30 x 30 garage just went up which should help future projects move quickly.
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Old Jun 7, 2016 | 06:57 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by MRGTX
Oh yes. That ought to be amazing. The newer Coyotes apparently can withstand a lot more boost...but I gather that you'll still need upgraded OPGs.



+1

It looks like slow.stang is able to do his own wrenching...which is the only way this is possible. I give him respect for that.

Oh, sure...I could do the install myself too but it would take me months...or years!
Oh yeah Mike... for sure. $6k for blower parts only. I was assuming he'd do the install himself. If he had a shop do it, it'd be another $1500 or so of labor just for the blower labor...not even counting the other parts he wants installed. I agree - only way to do it is to install on our own. (except my headers which I chickened out of )
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Old Jun 7, 2016 | 08:03 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by FromZto5
Oh yeah Mike... for sure. $6k for blower parts only. I was assuming he'd do the install himself. If he had a shop do it, it'd be another $1500 or so of labor just for the blower labor...not even counting the other parts he wants installed. I agree - only way to do it is to install on our own. (except my headers which I chickened out of )
I bought one of those engine braces from harbor freight for about $60. It lifts the engine about 3 inches. Made removing the driver's side manifold pretty easy not sure about passenger.
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 04:14 PM
  #60  
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So I went and got the 16 automatic last week(what a turd) gonna put a couple thousand miles on it before I get the Whipple. I'll probably start a new thread for that project.
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