To get around the gas guzzler tax......

 

It saves us about $1k

 

I will follow the same process I have gone thru with my previous 2 cobras (01 and 03). CAI, exhaust and tune. some suspension pieces and wheels and tires unless the factory ones with the Brembo's suit me. I would still send the rears off to get them widened so I can run at least a 295 in the rear. Depends on what the whipple does for these things as they get more popular..If it lays down good reliable power like the new GT-350 then add that to my list.

 

Just so you guys all know, the OP noted he was geting an Auto trans, which I believe means he does not care about the skip shift eliminator as it is not a problem for him?

 

As far as the skip shift, you know that if you open the throttle enough it won't intervene. So, just do hard take-offs at evry start and you won't have to worry with it!

 

I fixed it for you.

 

I figured on tint, wheels and tires, springs and shocks and possibly exhaust and spoiler to start.

 

GT500 spoiler and skip-shift eliminate. I won't do power mods as I won't need it and like to keep my cars pretty much stock (always thinking ahead about resale value - boring, but true).

 

You are right as you lose when you modify. The only mod i can see that would be easy and easy to convert back would be a tune and maybe a better CAI if it will make more power than stock. If this combo can give you an extra 20-30hp it would well worth it.

 

Don't know much about it, but I know I like to buy my cars in stock condition, which is why I generally only consider buying new Mustangs. Pretty much all used Mustangs on dealer lots have been modified.

 

The only mod that is truly detrimental to resale value is one you can't undo. I will take my car back to stock before I trade it, the only real issue I will have is the modified hood but I have another hood available. Then I can sell off the mod parts and get some money back out of them.

 

Just as my '94, '98, & '04 Mustangs have been, this 2011 (Prem V6 Coupe MT MCA HID SEC) will be a year-round daily driver.

As soon as I get the car home, I'll be yanking the axle and drive shaft to prime & paint them semi-gloss black.

While out, I'll then drop the exhaust system so I can seam-seal the complete underside (all seams not done by factory) them hit the whole thing with 3M Body Shultz undercoating. Then yank the interior out and seal all the seams from the inside too.

Only definite MOD I plan on is a set of winter wheels & snow tires. Otherwise this 2011 will be everything that I built up my 2004 to be (req'd. $5200 in OTC parts) and so much more.

Doug

 

Hey Doug -- that sounds like a great winter protection program, but I can't see doing all of that myself (simply do not have the time or the facilities) -- do you think aftermarket undercoating would be a good idea as a half-decent substitute? Any specific thoughts or recommendations on that?

I live in Massachusetts and my future mustang will be a year-round driver also.

thanks
John

 

stock pirelli's all seasons on 19s were fine for me this winter, car is my daily driver, took it out everyday. no leaks so im not really sure if all that extra sealing is really necessary maybe 20yrs down the road?

 

Aftermarket undercoating is good, but it's impossible to do as complete and as neat of a job with everything still under the car. Also, regular aftermarket undercoating is typically heavier than Body Schultz and takes a while to fully dry. Body Schultz dries pretty quick and is less messy.

After seeing what 4 winters did to my '94, I seam sealed my '98 from the inside after I got it. With my '04, it was delivered in March and I was not going to start driving it until April or May ... plus a sporty Mustang (my '98 at the time) is much easier to sell in Spring than Winter.

So since I still had my '98 still as a daily driver and 6 weeks of time, I started modding the '04. Had the axle out so I could weld-on quad shock brackets & add a T-Lok and then pulled the factory single exhaust so I could swap in the Magnaflow Duals ... and saw this perfectly clean factory primed underside. All I had to do was wipe it down with wax & grease remover then seam seal it ... wait a day or two then undercoat it with Body Schultz. Once the Body Schultz was good and dry, I sprayed some rust preventer stuff on inner pinch type seams (inner door bottoms, etc.). This stuff does not harden, it leaches through these rust vulnerable seams. While the axle & driveshaft were out and brand new bare steel, they just need to be scuffed up with a scotch brite pad, wiped down with wax & grease remover to be ready for priming & painting.

I'm on my 6th winter in this 2004 and the underside, axle, and drive shaft all still look very good considering what it's been through.

Doug

 

Just wondering, couldn't you have used POR for the underbody, axel, driveshaft and "hidden" seams (wouldn't want to use the POR on seams like you mentioned - inner door bottoms)?

 

I used POR on various things back in the 80's including a brand new Ford Motorsport 8.8 T-Lok Axle assembly I put in my '79 Fairmont Futura daily driver. This axle was a rusting & peeling mess when I yanked it out before selling that car after only 3 or 4 winters. I think I still have a few un-opened cans of the stuff in my basement, but using good quality rattle can paint was easier and held up better for me.

Doug

 

I never thought I'd live to see the day I'd paint a brand new car, but I'm leaning toward having mine painted Red Candy since I couldn't get that color with red brick interior.

 

Man, it would be a LOT CHEAPER to do it the other way around, get the car already painted Red Candy and then change the upholstery.

 

Are you serious? You do realize it would be thousands cheaper to get a Red Candy car, then either a) buy the Brick Red seat covers and door panel inserts from Ford...or b) have an upholstery shop fab you up some nice seat covers (or go with Katzkins) and door panels!?

Or are you referring to the car you already have.......