This is the skinny. Today's modern engine is designed to be started when cold. That being said its best to wait 3 seconds or so before pulling away. Excessive idling is also bad. It just causes fuel to wash down the engine oil. You're best bet is to start it, let it idle for 30 seconds then drive it. This doesn't mean to hammer the car. That's never good to do until it reaches operating temperature. Mostly because our aluminum engines grow a lot when heated. And it's always best to beat on an engine once all materials are fully heated.

 

I'd have to go into hibernation if it got that cold here. Cold for us is 20 to 40 degrees F, with an occasional drop to the teens..

 

I park underground, so no need to warm up cause it's already warm.

 

This is what I normally do, and I don't hammer it until it's up near or at normal temperature. I figure by then everything has had time to warm up.

 

1-2 two minutes is a VERY long time to let a car sit and idle before being able to drive it. Are you literally waiting 1-2 minutes? The RPM on my '13 GT drop after 10-15 seconds. If yours is idling that high for two whole minutes, something might be wrong.

 

At least the 5.8 has no traction problems until it is warmed up...and you can stomp on it.
Excessive idling as mentioned before is actually worse for the engine than taking it easy and drive shortly after startup. Once fully warm, enjoy.
LEXiiON

 

Most of the "warming up" advice comes from those of us who had carburetors and chokes. Trying to drive off in the cold before choke started opening up generally resulted in some not-so-fun bucking.

If you keep your oil changed, you shouldn't have to worry about waiting long on circulation either. Even in -40. As most people mentioned, once start-up idle drops, you should be good to go.

As for the OP saying their sometimes bucks, it is more likely that you are being overly cautious with the gas pedal and getting near stalls. I've had this a few times after pulling out of the parking lot at work which involves an annoying speedbump I have to crawl over.

 

This, I'll wait about 30-40 seconds before taking off, otherwise it's bucking Broncos!

 

unless it's well below freezing, I start the car, put on my seat belt, connect my phone (for Android Auto) and release the e-brake, at this point the car is coming down from it's cold start idle

 

Jesus...how far underground are we talking? If your oil is up to 200+F at start up, I'd hate to see how the plastics on your car are holding up.

 

In the summer, the coolant, oil, and trans fluid are at operating temp after about 2 miles of driving 30-60 MPH. In the winter, it takes about 7 miles.

 

3 floors down. I usually start the car with my remote starter, so by the time I reach my car, plug in my dashcams...it'll be over 1min of idling

 

That test engine was probably had a carburetor and points ignition.
Fuel wash (a condition where fuel makes its way past the rings and removes oil from the cylinder walls) is nor really as big an issue with today's modern engines and tight tolerances.
My guess would be that you are much more likely to have a "fuel wash" condition with the car idling in the driveway for 10 minutes while you wait for it to "warm up"...

 

^ This

 

Ok what's a fuel wash? I'm a novice in internal engine talk.

 

It's BS if you just warm up your car. The PCM controls the whole process.

 

Pretty sure I said that haha.

At its basics, it is when fuel gets on the cylinder bores and will "wash" off the film of oil on the cylinder bore which protects and lubricates the bore from the piston and rings sliding up against it during travel.

 

Ok thanks for the explanation!