http://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-s...t-install.html


If you haven't already take a look at this

 

I believe that was the exact procedure I followed which that site states 25ft lbs of torque

will only using 10 ft lbs cause the spArk plug to blow out under pressure? For all my sanity, went to auto zone on my lunch and picked up an actual spark plug socket this time that has the rubber insert Inside of it and Is magnetic.

Should I still try again at 25ft lb or go with the 10ft lbs that the 5.0 motor uses and still be safe?

sorry for any typos or anything doing most replies on my phone.

 

I would do 15

That's what I put mine in at

And yes if you put them in with too little they could back out or blow out

 

Sorry to hear. Did you get it working already?

And don't fear the anti-seize. That's needed. Removal will be much easier with it installed. Just remember not to overdo it. And keep it on the threads.

That sounds about right, Rocky. I thought the 25ft lbs was high. For the record, I use the NGK TR7 plugs for almost 2 years now. And she runs like a top.

Curious, why no love for the NGK's?

 

Thank you all for the great replies, I haven't put the new ones in it that i bought so I'll pick up some anti seize on the way home. I'll stick with 15ft lb of torque and let you all know how it goes! Hoping to get this thing running good before the weekend as its going to be 50 here in upstate NY and can finally take her for a good drive! The only time I've really driven her is back from the dealer to my house about a month and a half ago (300 mile drive).

 

As for the someone who posted specs for the 5.0 motor.. That was from me !

After 2008 Ford changed the design of the 3v 4.6L heads and plugs from high threaded 16mm 2 piece design back to standard one piece 12mm design..

According to Ford's revised recommendations.. Their recommended torque specs are 106 lb inch torque or 9ft lbs torque following the conversion from lb inches to ft lb torque.. Therefore don't torque above 10 ft lbs when using high temp nickel anti-seize..

In the meantime, here's the recommended torque specs from Ford listed below..

 

DO NOT TORQUE ABOVE 10FT LBS.. READ THE PDF FILE THAT I JUST POSTED!!!


303-07B-1 Engine Ignition — 4.6L (3V) 303-07B-1
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION: SPARK PLUGS

NOTICE: The spark plug procedure must be
followed exactly or damage to the cylinder head
and spark plug will result.

Only use hand tools when
removing or installing the spark plugs
• To install, tighten to 12 Nm (106 lb-in).

Copyright ã 2008, Ford Motor Company
Last updated: 05/23/2008 2009 Mustang, 7/2008

 

Thank you so much for that!! I won't go past 10ft lbs can't wait to get home and put them in!

I downloaded the manual from the Ford website which says Print 3 (which I'm guessing means 3rd revision ) , how come those new specs wouldn't be in there in a 3rd revision of the manual? Got it straight from the Ford website for the 10 gt? Hmm.

 

Burton ! The 24ft lb specs are for 2005- early 2008 4.6 3v models that had the old high threaded 16mm 2 piece design spark plugs.. I know this through personal experience, as I changed my plugs last year on my 2006 GT..

 

More than likely the spec recommendations didn't change since the 2nd revision of the Ford manual, so there was really no need to change anything.. Btw: if your referring to the owners manual, it doesn't list torque specs.. What you need is the 2010 Mustang service manual..


Anyhow I'm glad you were still logged on and took notice before taking another risk in breaking another set of spark plugs.. At least your lucky as your 2010 GT has the revised 12mm 3v plugs rather than the dreaded old style 2 piece 16mm plugs that I still have to deal with..

 

Just had the worst nightmare happen to me... vacuumed out the rest of the shattered plug, went to pull it out and 2 more peices broke off and fell into the hole. My stomach is literally in knots, tried vacuuming out not working . I'm sick over this. I would have been done 2 hours ago. Now I'm screwed I dk what to do.

 

How big are the pieces? Any chance you could duct tape a length of tubing like vacuum line to the vacuum nozzle so you could insert it in the spark plug hole?

 

See if you can locate or purchase a long enough magnet tool that will fit inside the spark plug well to pull it out.. Also try SpectreH's recommendation by attaching duck tape to a piece of vacuum line tubing to your vacuum nozzle as well..

 

I am going to pick up a piece of vacuum line tomorrow at a local hardware store and try that there actually 3 small pieces. The good news is I can see them all clear as day when I look through the hole with a flash light. Even if the vacuum hose grabs it so I can pull it out with it rather than it trying to suck it through I would be happy. The 3 pieces are small but still pretty good in size.

 

The other 7 plugs are all installed without a hitch, bought a magnetic spark plug 9/16 with a swivel extension attached to it and it worked like a charm.

 

For everyone curious here's the culprit.

 

Keep us up to date with your progress, as were all very concerned..

 

What I still don't get is why Ford doesn't say a thing about anti-seize in their service manual. No specification of nickel vs. copper or others, no mention at all.

 

When it comes to Ford, who knows Kyle.. They do however mention using high-temp nickel anti-seize in the TSB, but then again this was only after it became a problem related issue.. At any rate, if only I had been aware of the spark plug issues prior to purchasing my first S197 in 2004, I would've held out and waited for the 2008 job 3 models that came with the new revised heads and plugs instead..


-Rocky

 

Going to try the small tube trick with my shopvac once i get home, will start on it around 530pm my time (EST). Now....if for some silly (well, not silly but horrifying) reason I have to pull the head, I found this article online that says you take the valve cover off but then dont have to pull the springs, cam or anything out, just once you take the valve (intake) cover off, you unscrew the head bolts and it should pop right off correct?

I'm a brand new weekend amateur mechanic, so amateur that im collecting tools here and there from a local harbor freight lol. Doing the cold air intake on this car is probably the first mechanical thing I did to any car except for the usual plugs, oil, etc. etc.. Is this something that I could tackle myself with a helping hand if I had to in my garage? Only pain I see is removing the front cover which looks like a pain in the you know what. The valve cover doesn't look to bad to take off.