Bert

Can someone tell me the build date in the 2012 model year, when they fixed the EPAS (electronic power assist steering) system to eliminate the shuddering / shaking problem? I'm pretty sure the problem was mostly caused when changing the bushings out to something firmer, but it could happen with the stock bushings also. Part way through the 2012 model year, the EPAS (rack?) was changed to correct this issue.

I'm pretty sure the date is in a thread or two on here somewhere, but I haven't been able to find them yet.

The reason I'm asking is, I am thinking about buying a 2012 car, and I want to make sure that I get on that was built after the fix.

Thanks in advance!

EF1

I have looked all over to find the date with no luck. All I can find is it was changed during the 12 model year and to look for 13 and newer rack to make sure you don't get one with the issue.I have an 11 with a little shudder already and i still have the stock bushings in the front control arms. I need to start looking for a newer steering rack so I can go to firmer bushings.

Bert

Thanks EF1 . . . . I know that date is out there in the interwebs somewhere!

I found a 2012 car that was built in December, 2011 . . . I got a response on another forum that says the issue was definitely fixed by January 2012 build date, but I'm not sure about December, 2011.

I really want a 2012 car, because I just don't like the nose on the 13-14's ; plus they have overheating issues on track.

EF1, have you had any overheating issues with your 2011 on track? (yeah I know I could check the old posts in the motorsports section . . . . )

EF1

I agree with you on the looks of the 11-12" cars over the later S197's. Good luck finding the actual date. I have been putting off swapping out the front bushings due to fear of steering shudder. I am at a point I can't wait much longer. I am just going to have to bite the bullet and buy a steering rack when I do it.

I am still running the stock radiator and grill and have not had any overheating problems. As a point of reference I have run in 90+ at Sebring without issue. I also ran Barber in Alabama last July with no over heating. I will probably go with a larger aluminum radiator and a Boss 302s grill for extra cooling once my stock radiator starts to leak.

Bert

There is a 23 page thread about this on another forum, but no specific date to be found! But I am pretty sure that the 2011 full model year did have the issue, changeover was sometime during 2012 production . . . December 2011 is probably OK but I'm still not sure.

I really don't understand why the 13-14 cars seem to have the overheating issue on track, but the 11-12 cars do not. It might be that the 13-14 cars have the extra programmable gages including oil temperature which the 11-12 cars don't have, so the 11-12 drivers are blissfully ignorant of the temps . . . not sure.

Someone out there must have that date!

EF1

I have read a good portion of that 23 pages on the other S197 forum. It has a lot of good information, but I couldn't find a date either. Since I have an 11 I figure I am screwed on the shudder. I ordered prothane bushings last night. I am ordering Howe screw in ball joints tonight. Not sure if I am going to go ahead and order an EPAS or wait and see. I watch my gauges and do not see temp problems. I have never heard any boil over when returning to the paddock either. I think the overheating may be due to the change in grill and addition of that nose cone - less air flow perhaps.

Bert

related tangent: tips to make the bushing change easier
1) remove the tie rod end from the spindle, before you do anything else . . . this will be needed to provide clearance to get the bolt out, and it is easier to remove if you do it first . . . remove the nut first (of course) then a few careful hits with a big hammer will pop it out . . . then you can push back the plastic accordion cover to provide clearance to get the bolt out
2) make sure you have all the right tools first -- 18mm and 21mm are the key sizes (I made several trips for tools in the middle of the job which really dragged it out)
3) get a press if you don't already have one. I used the smaller one that Harbor Freight sells, but the bigger one would have been better; it is hard to get the right angles with the small one
4) you will also need a good set of collars or sockets to press out/off the old bushings -- I bought a set of large impact wrench sockets, from harbor freight also, and it had the sizes I needed, plus a ball joint press kit that I borrowed from Advance Auto
5) drill the big bushing and drain the oil before you press it out . . . you can press it out without doing that, but it will pop and spray oil all over the place!!!
6) you might as well change the ball joints while you have the a-arms out; I have a brand new set of proforged ball joints (the good ones) that I'll sell you cheap if you want

EF1

Thanks for the tips. I have a 20 ton shop press already. I have most of what I need, but still need a couple of items. I have already ordered the prothane bushings and howe racing threaded ball joints. I still need to get a bump steer kit and the socket for the howe ball joints. I plan to remove the control arms, press out the bushings and ball joints, weld in the threaded inserts and have the arms powder coated before reinstalling. I am deciding on whether or not to order the new steering rack and do it all at once or wait to see if I really need it. Since I have a 2011 I am pretty sure I am going to, but I hate to spend the extra $1,000.

MRGTX

I have an early 11. It rolled off the assembly line 6/2010. I picked it up 8/12/10. So I’m screwed I guess. My car has been basically flawless for 40k so I’ve been lax on following the forums. Farewell, blissful ignorance.

When does it typically start? Is it a safety issue?

For the record, the car has been great. I have the igniter tick but it doesn’t seem to be a problem so I stopped worrying about it 4-5 years ago. I do have a blister forming on the leading edge of the hood which makes me sad. Otherwise it has exceeded my expectations in every way. It’s still pretty **** fast despite nearing a decade old tech.

Bert

I'm pretty sure it is only an issue if you replace the soft rubber factory bushings in the front a-arms with firmer aftermarket poly ones. That is a common mod for fairly serious road track use; but if you do not do that, never . . . and I don't think it's a major safety issue, even if you do.

I think there were a few of the early Coyote cars that had some clunks in the front end, and then if the bushings are changed to address that, it might show up. If you haven't had an issue yet, you probably won't; if the bushings ever wear out, just replace them with OEM and there should be no issue.

EF1

I finally got around to putting my car back together today. I replaced the stock bushings with Prothane and the press in ball joints were removed in favor of Howe Racing screw in ones. I also drilled and tapped for grease zeros and had them powder coated satin black while they were out. I have only put a few street miles on it, but like I thought the steering shudder is worse. Looks like I will be swapping out the rack soon.

Edited to fix pictures

Bert

Looks great! Let us know if you can feel the difference on the track . . . I couldn't really tell, but it had been a couple years since my last track day so i was rusty in general

EF1

I need to swap out the steering rack before I go to the track in October. I will let you know once I get it all done and a chance to put it through its paces.

EF1

I am a little late on the update. I swapped out the steering rack and upgraded my brake pads from the G-Loc R10/R8 setup to R12/R10 before going back to the track. These changes along with the prothane bushings, MM bump steer kit, and Howe ball joints made a noticeable difference on track. I did 3 days at Carolina Motorsports Park in October and the car felt really good with absolutely no shudder. Braking and turn in are much better. Now I am starting to over run my tires once again.

Bert

thanks for the update!