"Break-in" oil or urban myth?
8/15/13, 03:35 PM
#41
GTR Member
And I state my response to that again, Mobil1 doesn't cost that much and neither does the filter, it's also only .5 quart more than a standard GT 5.0, didn't cost me anywhere near that much to do mine..
8/15/13, 04:19 PM
#42
Shelby GT350 Member
Bought M1 5w50 for about $5.99/qt last month plus $5 for a filter... $60 or so if I remember correctly. Normal pricing on oil near me is $8.99/qt so that would be like $86 before tax for 9 qts...
8/15/13, 06:53 PM
#43
Cobra Member
Can't get M1 or Castrol 5W-50 around here off the shelf, & Wally World won't special order it. I'm fine with running the MC 5W-50 at this time.
8/17/13, 11:06 AM
#45
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Does the standard 5.0 take 8 quarts? I was unaware of that. I am using Castrol Synec 5w-50 right now because I can get it here.
Last edited by Roller13; 8/17/13 at 11:09 AM.
8/17/13, 12:04 PM
#46
Shelby GT350 Member
8/17/13, 01:26 PM
#47
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Probably metal, generated during normal break-in.
Or abnormal wear. Hard to tell, really.
I'm not a car mechanic, but in aviation, we always break in with straight mineral oil, to ensure irregular surfaces are able to wear at a predictable rate and thereby "break in".
Aircraft engines are old tech, due to the costs and other issues associated with aviation realities and regulations. Therefore old tech rules still apply. I was unaware that modern tech automotive engines were that picky about break in. I know I would not worry too hard about break in oil and oil changes in a modern engine.
Or abnormal wear. Hard to tell, really.
I'm not a car mechanic, but in aviation, we always break in with straight mineral oil, to ensure irregular surfaces are able to wear at a predictable rate and thereby "break in".
Aircraft engines are old tech, due to the costs and other issues associated with aviation realities and regulations. Therefore old tech rules still apply. I was unaware that modern tech automotive engines were that picky about break in. I know I would not worry too hard about break in oil and oil changes in a modern engine.
8/17/13, 08:26 PM
#48
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Love the old round engines - they make my kind of music. Serviced a DC 3 once with a new rebuilt no. 2 engine. Mineral oil till break in hours was required - that pratt and whitney R1830 also required a lot of oil!
If I remember correctly the DC 6 took 37 gallons in the oil bag (pw R2800 CB16 engines) burn was 5 to 8 gallons per hour per engine - air tanker service. fuel flow was 80 to 100 gallons an hour each engine on cruise it was a lot at high power settings and ADI fluid injection.
You don't know what an expensive oil change is until you do one of these old engines. There were 144 spark plugs on the 6 as well!
I have never worried much about break in on any of my new cars and have never ever had an engine issue. I also don't abuse them. I think break in worry's are way over blown.
If I remember correctly the DC 6 took 37 gallons in the oil bag (pw R2800 CB16 engines) burn was 5 to 8 gallons per hour per engine - air tanker service. fuel flow was 80 to 100 gallons an hour each engine on cruise it was a lot at high power settings and ADI fluid injection.
You don't know what an expensive oil change is until you do one of these old engines. There were 144 spark plugs on the 6 as well!
I have never worried much about break in on any of my new cars and have never ever had an engine issue. I also don't abuse them. I think break in worry's are way over blown.
Probably metal, generated during normal break-in.
Or abnormal wear. Hard to tell, really.
I'm not a car mechanic, but in aviation, we always break in with straight mineral oil, to ensure irregular surfaces are able to wear at a predictable rate and thereby "break in".
Aircraft engines are old tech, due to the costs and other issues associated with aviation realities and regulations. Therefore old tech rules still apply. I was unaware that modern tech automotive engines were that picky about break in. I know I would not worry too hard about break in oil and oil changes in a modern engine.
Or abnormal wear. Hard to tell, really.
I'm not a car mechanic, but in aviation, we always break in with straight mineral oil, to ensure irregular surfaces are able to wear at a predictable rate and thereby "break in".
Aircraft engines are old tech, due to the costs and other issues associated with aviation realities and regulations. Therefore old tech rules still apply. I was unaware that modern tech automotive engines were that picky about break in. I know I would not worry too hard about break in oil and oil changes in a modern engine.
8/18/13, 12:39 PM
#49
Mach 1 Member
I take it to Ford, for the price they charge with the "owners package" it isn't even worth my time. Whatever FORD say's they want in the motor THEY designed is what I get, people always try and out smart these people.
8/18/13, 05:56 PM
#50
I love oil threads... they're almost as funny as seeing someone with 10K posts in 2 yrs. That's a lot of gibberish 
BTW, It's a myth
BTW, It's a myth
Last edited by SteelTownStang; 8/18/13 at 05:57 PM.
8/18/13, 05:59 PM
#52
I would have thought the Amsoil cult would have shown up by now. Apparently they google the word oil and follow every link. Are they assigned links individually by the mother ship? 
8/18/13, 06:15 PM
#53
Mach 1 Member
What oil do you prefer?
8/18/13, 06:16 PM
#54
Mach 1 Member
8/18/13, 07:15 PM
#55
In the last 25 years I've used Pennzoil, Quaker State, Castrol, Mobil 1, and Motorcraft.
I've never really cared about oil till the past 10 years or so always using Mobil 1 in the mod motor Fords I've had. I will be using RP here soon in my 13.
8/18/13, 07:19 PM
#57
A Man Just Needs Some....
I really should swap to RP. It's time to change mine in the Cobra. Only about 2500mi but it hasn't been changed in a year.
8/19/13, 06:59 AM
#59
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Does anyone know if our cars use a special break-in oil or additive? I've heard this as opinion, as well as the opposite, but never seen any factual verification.
I'm contemplating an early first oil change while the car is at the dealer for other work (its a pain to find a time to go since I have to work and the service dept. has banker's hours). Is there any downside (or advantage) to changing the oil early (~1,300 miles/10 months)?
I'm contemplating an early first oil change while the car is at the dealer for other work (its a pain to find a time to go since I have to work and the service dept. has banker's hours). Is there any downside (or advantage) to changing the oil early (~1,300 miles/10 months)?
Your Mustang's message center will alert you when an oil change is required based on your driving habits. It can be up to a year or up to 10,000 miles. You can click the SETUP button to see how much oil life you have remaining. This information can be viewed in your Owner Guide (3rd Printing). At 10 months of use, it’s really not that early, but it’s really up to you. I always recommend speaking your servicing Ford Dealer first.
Deysha
8/19/13, 09:13 AM
#60
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Thanks Deysha! I'm aware of the oil life monitor (it says I can wait a while longer) - its really a matter of connivence and avoiding any preventable problems. As much as I like my service dept, I'd rather be out driving!