I don't suppose they worry with anything like bedding in the brakes on these cars before the leave the factory, do they?

Has anyone considered doing this on their new Mustang?

Supposed to improve the brake performance and longevity as well as help avoid rotor problems.

Last vehicle I replaced the brakes on was my Lightning and I went through the procedure on it, don't know how much difference it made.

 

Doesn't bedding the brake pads require hard braking?

Hard braking is one of the last things you want to do with brand new rotors. I believe they even tell you to avoid this in the owner's manual.

 

I guess not, but I would still avoid it personally.

 

Bedding in the brakes is something to do with new brakes and rotors, it doesn't damage rotors, it helps protect them from warpage.

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/....jsp?techid=85

 

Adam- that's primarily the engine break-in procedure.

Well, it says to "vary your speed"... I'd say 40-5, 40-5, 40-5... 80-5, 80-5, 80-5 is "varying" your speed, right?!

I think it was Steeda that said they "broke-in" a couple of their brand-new cars on the road course.
With NO ill effects!

 

"Properly" bedding in your brakes works. I always do it with all my performance brakes. The key is to not have to stop during the procedure.

Yes, it involves hard braking but the key is to not fully stop, and being able to drive for a bit to let the brakes cool.

Of course, the bed-in procedure is supposed to be done when the pads are new and with a new car it's already been driven a few miles, so I'm not sure how effective the procedure will be, but I doubt it would hurt.

 

According to that tirerack article that I posted the link to above, the brake bedding-in procedure is done using "moderate" brake pressure. The procedure I used on my Lightning was the one listed near the bottom from Satisfied Brakes, where you do 10 "stops" from 30 to 10 MPH with 30 seconds of cool down in between, then 5 stops from 50 to 10 MPH and then let them cool completely.

You do get some funny looks from people while you are doing this...

 

That is true, definitely want to allow them to stay cool!

Interesting, didn't know rotors had a break-in process.

 

This is similar to the bed in that I use, I was going by the method recommended by Hawk.

Like I said, the key is to not come to a complete stop, keep the rotor turning so that it cools evenly (ie not trapped in the caliper where it cools slower). After the last few hard braking runs I try to drive for about 5 mins then I park it. Make sure you leave the parking brake off.

 

Rotor warpage is generally a myth, what happens most frequently is pad deposition in uneven amounts on the rotor surface. 'Turning' rotors scrapes this off, though usually takes the top layer of metal as well.

Bed-in is not as important for brand-new rotors with brand-new pads -- bedding will happen with the general usage, especially with any stock, non-high performance pads, which all the stock Mustang pads qualify as.

Bedding is most important with new rotors and old pads, or vice-versa, as you'll help transfer a small amount of the new pad material to the disc, and thoroughly match the rotor face to the pad. You'll generally help to remove the old pad material at the same time.

Also, you can always 're-bed' the pads at any time by going through the heating process involved with the moderate level repeated stops.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/faqs.shtml#7

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

 

I plan giving it a try soon.

I posted a thread about my super squeaky brakes and I was recommended to bed them. The article linked to me was to go from 50 to 15 and repeat eight to ten times without complete stops. Let it cool completely and do the process again.

Will that help with my squeaking brakes? I haven't really stomped on the brakes yet. Dealership said my pads were glazed over and they used some solution to cure it. On the way home the brakes started squealing again.

Oh, yeah, when I brake to a stop from lower speeds (10-15 MPH) I can hear a groaning sound.

 

ok am I the only a$$ that drives this car like he stole it off the dealer lot? I mean who doesnt give a sports car alittle if the business? When I test drove my gt vert the nissian dealer called the cops on me and the sales guy for having fun on the closed road behind the dealerships.

 

When I was doing track days with my Charger, I had YellowStuff pads on with the stock rotors. After a couple of weeks of regular driving, they would start to squeek. Re-doing the bedding procedure always fixed the problem.

It was usually sufficient for me to do 4 or 5 runs from 40mph-5mph, followed by 4 or 5 runs from 60mph-5mph. Then just drive around a little while to cool them off again.

 

Performance Package cars come with carbon metallic performance style pads, they are much more likely to make noise.

An article I read said that to re-bed the pads and rotors that you first need to de-glaze the rotors to remove the pad materiel buildup from them.

You can do this with a scotchbrite disk on a drill, just go over the surface and burnish it.

Then do the bedding in procedure.

This may very well fix the noise problems.

 

You bed-in pads.

You season rotors. First.

To season rotors, you make a number of light-to-medium stops from 35-45mph to about 5mph. This gradually heats the rotors up to let the stresses in the grain, er, iron themselves out. Then, you bed the pads, which involves several threshold brake stops from 45, then 50, then 55, 60 and 65mph (or whatever you can do) to about 5mph (key is, don't stop)... then you drive around real easy for 15-30 minutes to let the pads cool down, then you're done.

 

I have the YellowStuff on right now as well, same squeakyness on occasion. Never took them off after the last track day.
Re-bedding can definitely help.
Problem is every time you do this, as expected you wear away some of your pad material and some of the disc, accelerating the wear.

I've heard of this as well, though I think just doing the stuff below would have the same basic effect.

The other thing is to not let any water hit them during the cool-down, and to avoid sitting at a dead stop during this, either -- the pad will stick to the rotor if it's hot enough, and leave a bit of the material stuck there. Sometimes you can even see it on the rotor face. If you do have to stop during cool down, release the brakes and rock back and forth or inch along til you can take off again.

 

The 2012 Boss Owner's Guide Supplement gives very specific instructions...see p.37.

 

That is super cool .... so wish I could get a Boss LS....