I'm going Tuesday to sign for the 5.0- any recommendations for the "closing table"?

Do I bother with extended warranty?
If yes, what cost should I be willing to pay for it? Are there different coverage plans?

What fees should I look for in the paperwork and what ranges are acceptable?

Thanks for the help guys!

 

Say NO to extended Warranty. After the sale you can register your VIN on the FOrd Owners website. From there you can buy an extended warranty directly from Ford at HALF of what the dealer will charge ... and pay for it over 17 months 0% interest.

 

Advice like this is why this site is so **** incredible. Thank you, Sir!!

 

your dealer can also do the 0% financing on the warranty. With us the only additional charges are sales tax 7.5 - 8.75% depending on county, NY state inspection $10, NY state tire fee $12.50, doc fee $75 and motor vehicle fees $60-140 depending on what you are doing for plates. Other than that there should be any charges unless you decide to buy additional products like accessories or warranty.

 

Skip the $200 Glass Etch Security scam .... I got taken on that one .... Even if the WIndows are already etched you can deny the coverage and charge.

 

Just skim all the paperwork and take your own calculator to do up the math, just to verify you're paying what you expected and nothing is hidden or "mistyped". Definitely check the interest and the total amount you're being loaned if you're getting one. If you made a deposit, don't forget it. And get the program ID for the $500 cash back and anything else you have, as not all dealers know about them, or still believe they expired in May.

 

No undercoating. Make sure the documentation fees are reasonable, no more than $275. Ask for a free oil change, go at 1500 miles. The service department will normally allow this. Also ask for no dealer stickers and if you choose no dealer prep, I like to wash it for the first time correctly instead of a teenager with dirty rags. There is a special name for the prep, I cant recall it right now. Ask that the full tank of gas be from BP or Shell and 93 octane.

 

Are the rebate IDs the same?

 

It will have a full tank but I don't trust them to put 93 anyway so I'll just run it as low as I can and switch it myself. That's not something that I'm going to stress about. I hadn't thought about the oil change, though- that's a great point.

 

ditto the above on going over the paperwork and numbers yourself, feel free to take as much of their time as you need to double check all the math.

 

I think so, but ask Karpro or one of the other dealers on here, they could tell you better than I what you might need for it.

 

Remember you have until 3 years or 36,000? miles to buy the extended warranty...as long as the car is under the original warranty you can opt to extend it...why pay for it now?

 

Depends on how your car is equipped. If you have all the bells and whistles, go with premium care. Lesser cars could get by with lesser coverage. I paid just UNDER $1k for 6 years/100k miles. The dealers first offer was $1800.

Kind of late to be asking this. Your buyers order should have listed all the costs/fees. The dealer can pretty much charge whatever they want and I've seen $99 - $599 "doc fees" from local Washington D.C. dealers.

Don't buy the add-ons (paint protection, fabric protection, etc.). Don't even THINK about it. Just say no.

Don't buy "LoJack" or the other one "Mobile Guardian". What's funny is the same people who used to tell you how great LoJack is now tell you how bad it is to sell you Mobile Guardian. Just pay for your insurance.

Go in with financing pre-arranged. If they offer you something better, take it. But chances are, you'll do better on your own than playing the rate-shifting games that dealers play.

 

To offset future price increases. It would not be unheard of for the warranty to go up 10% in 3 years. Not too many investments are going to make that at the rate we're going. Plus with the ESP, your loaner car is free for ANY warranty service -- first 3 years and beyond.

 

I don't like how the extended warrantys don't include door handles, engine belts, and other things that might actually break.

 

yep -- and have the numbers already figured out, meaning you already know how much you will be financing, what the rate is, and what the payment comes out to, so they won't be able to confuse you with other numbers

 

Here is what's on the purchase agreement:

SALE PRICE OF VEHICLE: XX,XXX.XX (This is $531 over what I added invoice to be using the price chart in this forum; is $531 in fees on top of the invoice price common? I've requested a breakdown of the fees involved.)

Sales Taxes: XX,XXX.XX

Waste Tire Fee: 8.00 (Seriously? Waste tire fee on brand new tires WTF?)

Notarial, Documentation, and Convenience Fees: 133.00

Temp Tag and Inspection Sticker: 22.00

License, Title, and Registration Fees: 104.50 (Wait... isn't that what the Notarial, Documentation, etc covers?)

Total: XX,XXX.XX

Mechanical Breakdown Insurance: N/A

Gap Insurance: 0.00

TOTAL CREDIT (transfer from left column): 750.00 (I believe Karpro has found another $500 rebate that could be included here.)

Total Amount Due: XX,XXX.XX




So do any of THESE fees look extraneous? Factoring the rebates into all this, the car comes within about $300 of what I wanted it to be... but I'd still like to avoid paying anything I don't have to pay. While these fees are potentially reasonable, there are A LOT of fees added onto the sale price. Part of the game I'm sure, but I want to minimize that in any way possible.

Thanks for all your help, guys!

 

If your picky you can ask dealer not to apply dealer stickers or any other type of advertising on it. I would even ask that they leave the car plastic and all just like it was shipped. Also, your better off washing the car yourself unless the car is so dirty (from shipping) that you can't tell if there is any damage. In that case, you can have the dealer rinse it off while you are there so you can inspect the car and/or take pictures of it before you drive it home. Most dealers either have some kid washing cars or they may have car wash machines that whip around material against the car. The problem is the material has probably touched several hundred cars before touching yours.

 

I did go into detail about the prep process. They have two adults who wash the cars. I service a shop next door to this dealer and usually sit and watch a few minutes to see how careless they're being and I've been honestly impressed with the care they take while detailing the new cars. I understand some of you want the control of giving the car its first wash and whatnot, but in all honesty, I prefer for the car to be ready when I go to pick it up. I don't want to spend my first day owning this thing going through with a fine tooth comb and scrubbing every little corner. My first 4-6 hours will be spent driving it around showing it off to friends and family. I can't really do that if it's not been washed already.