5w50 or 5w20
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According to the 2013 Mustang Owners Guide, 1st printing, page 293 :
The required oil is SAE 5W-20 Premium Synthetic Blend or SAE 5W-20 Full Synthetic motor oil meeting Ford specification WSS-M2C945-A.
According to the 2013 Mustang Boss supplement, 1st printing, page 24:
The required oil is SAE 5W-50 Full Synthetic motor oil meeting Ford specification WSS-M2C931-B.
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From: Metro Detroit
I ran 5W-20 for the first 13K, I have now switched to 5W-30. My drive is almost 200 miles a day round trip; just under a thousand a week. Florida summer is almost upon us, so I wanted a higher viscosity for the summer heat. Ran my first week with Mobile Synthetic gold. No problems, but did notice a drop in MPG by about 1 to 2 tenths. Then again, I've been also running the AC in the mornings lately, that I did not have to do last month.
Not intending to start/restart/ or continue any oil debat (too many of them), but the manufacturers have you running 5W-20 for gas increases. 1 to 2 tenths over the span of tens of thousands of vehicles sold adds up to their CAFE' mileage requirements. That's the only reason for it's recomendation. As to ZDDP in higher viscosity oils, if this was a problem (it's actually good, as it lubricates the valves), Ford would not be recommending it. I don't understand the concern....
Not intending to start/restart/ or continue any oil debat (too many of them), but the manufacturers have you running 5W-20 for gas increases. 1 to 2 tenths over the span of tens of thousands of vehicles sold adds up to their CAFE' mileage requirements. That's the only reason for it's recomendation. As to ZDDP in higher viscosity oils, if this was a problem (it's actually good, as it lubricates the valves), Ford would not be recommending it. I don't understand the concern....
You should not change the viscosity of the oil in cars that have TiVCT
Last edited by Stinger1982; Mar 25, 2012 at 12:00 PM.
Bear Eats King...
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From: Cleburne, Tx
Originally Posted by Bucko
I ran 5W-20 for the first 13K, I have now switched to 5W-30. My drive is almost 200 miles a day round trip; just under a thousand a week. Florida summer is almost upon us, so I wanted a higher viscosity for the summer heat. Ran my first week with Mobile Synthetic gold. No problems, but did notice a drop in MPG by about 1 to 2 tenths. Then again, I've been also running the AC in the mornings lately, that I did not have to do last month.
Not intending to start/restart/ or continue any oil debat (too many of them), but the manufacturers have you running 5W-20 for gas increases. 1 to 2 tenths over the span of tens of thousands of vehicles sold adds up to their CAFE' mileage requirements. That's the only reason for it's recomendation. As to ZDDP in higher viscosity oils, if this was a problem (it's actually good, as it lubricates the valves), Ford would not be recommending it. I don't understand the concern....
Not intending to start/restart/ or continue any oil debat (too many of them), but the manufacturers have you running 5W-20 for gas increases. 1 to 2 tenths over the span of tens of thousands of vehicles sold adds up to their CAFE' mileage requirements. That's the only reason for it's recomendation. As to ZDDP in higher viscosity oils, if this was a problem (it's actually good, as it lubricates the valves), Ford would not be recommending it. I don't understand the concern....
did you read that on a Ford website or from some oil guru that lives in a gold lamp?
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From: Long Island
Originally Posted by texastboneking
I LOVE how everyone just knows the only reason for the 5w-20 is to increase gas mileage...
did you read that on a Ford website or from some oil guru that lives in a gold lamp?I also love how people say u will lose HP with 30 vs 20. As if your putting caramel sludge in the motor
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From: State of Jefferson Mountains USA
Palease.
Stop the lies. Say no to oil guy bob!
Last edited by cdynaco; Mar 25, 2012 at 04:47 PM.
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You do understand that the TiVCT uses the oil to change the cam timing and by changing the viscosity of the oil your are messing with the cam timing since the PCM is programmed to operate with the oil the car was delivered with??
You should not change the viscosity of the oil in cars that have TiVCT
You should not change the viscosity of the oil in cars that have TiVCT
Last edited by Bucko; Mar 25, 2012 at 06:08 PM.
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From: State of Jefferson Mountains USA
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If that's the case, the oil is still 5w at cold...no different than the 5w 20. The oil gets thicker as it warms, which was what I was after, because of the higher operating RPM's I'm driving each day.
My service manager did not indicate that switching to 5w-30 would cause any ill effects, which was why I made the above comment.
My service manager did not indicate that switching to 5w-30 would cause any ill effects, which was why I made the above comment.
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If that's the case, the oil is still 5w at cold...no different than the 5w 20. The oil gets thicker as it warms, which was what I was after, because of the higher operating RPM's I'm driving each day.
My service manager did not indicate that switching to 5w-30 would cause any ill effects, which was why I made the above comment.
My service manager did not indicate that switching to 5w-30 would cause any ill effects, which was why I made the above comment.
And oil gets thinner as it warms.
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From: Central Florida
I found this part in a long artical that talks about multi viscosity oils:
"Multi viscosity oils work like this: Polymers are added to a light base(5W, 10W, 20W), which prevent the oil from thinning as much as it warms up. At cold temperatures the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot. "
And this from Amsoil:
"For example, a 5W-30 motor oil performs like a SAE 5 motor oil would perform at the cold temperature specified, but still has the SAE 30 viscosity at 210° F (100° C) which is engine operating temperature. This allows the engine to get quick oil flow when it is started cold verses dry running until lubricant either warms up sufficiently or is finally forced through the engine oil system. The advantages of a low W viscosity number is obvious. The quicker the oil flows cold, the less dry running. Less dry running means much less engine wear."
Perhaps my thought of oil being 5w (at cold startup) and becoming 20w at temp is wrong? If so, I'll stand corrected. And I hate oil threads as much as the next, as they always seem to create confusion.
"Multi viscosity oils work like this: Polymers are added to a light base(5W, 10W, 20W), which prevent the oil from thinning as much as it warms up. At cold temperatures the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot. "
And this from Amsoil:
"For example, a 5W-30 motor oil performs like a SAE 5 motor oil would perform at the cold temperature specified, but still has the SAE 30 viscosity at 210° F (100° C) which is engine operating temperature. This allows the engine to get quick oil flow when it is started cold verses dry running until lubricant either warms up sufficiently or is finally forced through the engine oil system. The advantages of a low W viscosity number is obvious. The quicker the oil flows cold, the less dry running. Less dry running means much less engine wear."
Perhaps my thought of oil being 5w (at cold startup) and becoming 20w at temp is wrong? If so, I'll stand corrected. And I hate oil threads as much as the next, as they always seem to create confusion.
Last edited by Bucko; Mar 25, 2012 at 06:00 PM.
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In buying a multi-viscosity oil such as 5w-20, or 5w-30, the oil is thin (5w) when cold, and gets thicker 20 (or 30) as it warms. If this is not how you see it, then read some oil threads by Castrol, Mobile 1, etc. Or pour it into a pan and heat it up.
5w-20 would simply mean that it is thinner at startup, when the engine is cold, and gets thicker when it warms up.
5w-20 would simply mean that it is thinner at startup, when the engine is cold, and gets thicker when it warms up.
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Then I'll bow out of this thread. Not intending to cause any confusion. I just figured what I read from Mobile and Amsoil lead me to understand that a lower viscosity when the engine is cold is what was needed to get oil to flow, and when the engine warms, and the metals expand, a slightly thicker viscosity is required.
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Before the elementary like bashing ensues, I'll state I am neither for or against this whole debate. In my eyes, to each his own. I learn from debates as opposed to feeding the fire. 
But since you think this is sooooo absurd, what are your reasons for thinking that way. Besides Ford "recommends" 5w-20.
But since you think this is sooooo absurd, what are your reasons for thinking that way. Besides Ford "recommends" 5w-20.
Last edited by 2012GTCS; Mar 25, 2012 at 06:07 PM.
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I figured it was more for fuel economy than anything; if it does effect the operation of the TiVCT (valve timing), then I will switch back to 5w-20 on the next change. I will be calling my local Ford service department in the morning to verify this.y opolo
If I'm wrong, then my apologies to all. Always safe to stick with what the manufacturer suggests.
One other thing, by law, a manufacturer cannot void a warrantee if a person goes out and buys a different brand of oil or oil filter, or they have to provide it for free. So, they can recommend Motorcraft oil or Motorcraft filters, but cannot demand you use them or they void their warrantee. Of course we have to use quality replacements.
If I'm wrong, then my apologies to all. Always safe to stick with what the manufacturer suggests.
One other thing, by law, a manufacturer cannot void a warrantee if a person goes out and buys a different brand of oil or oil filter, or they have to provide it for free. So, they can recommend Motorcraft oil or Motorcraft filters, but cannot demand you use them or they void their warrantee. Of course we have to use quality replacements.
Last edited by Bucko; Mar 25, 2012 at 06:18 PM.
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Then I'll bow out of this thread. Not intending to cause any confusion. I just figured what I read from Mobile and Amsoil lead me to understand that a lower viscosity when the engine is cold is what was needed to get oil to flow, and when the engine warms, and the metals expand, a slightly thicker viscosity is required.
I always think about some of those High speed chases on wildest police videos. The getaway car is cruising at 1xx mph. The Police Interceptor Crown Vics, while maybe not so fast, have oil coilers in them. The getaway car is running a high RPM consistantly, basically boiling the oil to the point where it provides no protection (and doesnt get a chance to recirculate either) and the engine eventually seizes.
Last edited by 2012GTCS; Mar 25, 2012 at 06:26 PM.
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From: CenTex...sort of
Why wouldn't the recommended oil be good enough? I'm pretty sure that, since the car is engineered and built for longevity, ford is not going to tell us to use an oil that will have the engine seizing up or dropping 20% of its power after 40k miles. We all know they would be forced to recall every one of those cars and replace the engines in all of them=not something ford wants to pay for.