2010-2014 Mustang Information on The S197 {GenII}

2011 GT 5.0: Clutch Issue: Part III

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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 06:03 PM
  #1  
Gene K's Avatar
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2011 GT 5.0: Clutch Issue: Part III

2011 GT 5.0 Clutch Issue: Part III
My issue with what appeared to be an overcentering clutch appears to be caused by a combination of tolerance stack-up and an overly strong counter-balance spring (to lighten clutch effort).

Overcentering:
When the clutch pedal is depressed the fingers on the clutch are depressed close to the center of the diaphram spring. The closer they come to going past center the lighter the spring pressure becomes until if it goes past center the force actually goes negative. At high rpm centrifugal force acting on the fingers cause increased deflection.

My Car:
In my case the clutch is not actually overcentering but we are reaching a point at which the pressure is lighter than the counterbalance spring force. When this happens the pedal goes to the floor. So even though the clutch is not overcentering the result is the same. You must wait on the rpm to drop or physically pull the pedal back up a couple of inches before it can overcome the counterbalance spring.

My car is being fitted with a revised pedal-box spring assembly which I believe to be the one now listed in the parts catalog for Job 2 (8-15-2010) cars.

If you dont have an issue dont worry about it but if you do this would be my starting point. I supect the offending spring could be eliminated completely at the cost of increased clutch effort but you go their at your own risk.

I wasnt going to post this until my car was actually fixed but the latest plan is to replace all parts at one time (they are replacing the entire clutch system im my car) so I will have no way to confirm the actual fix.

PS Could one of the mods please fix the subject line. Thanks!

Last edited by Gene K; Jun 7, 2010 at 06:24 PM.
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 06:09 PM
  #2  
Kahdir's Avatar
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Thanks for keeping us posted.

Is the dealer or Ford giving you a loaner during this process or are you driving the car until they can preform the service (same day) while you wait?
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Gene K
My issue with what appeared to be an overcentering clutch appears to be caused by a combination of tolerance stack-up and an overly strong counter-balance spring (to lighten clutch effort).

Overcentering:
When the clutch pedal is depressed the fingers on the clutch are depressed close to the center of the diaphram spring. The closer they come to going past center the lighter the spring pressure becomes until if it goes past center the force actually goes negative. At high rpm centrifugal force acting on the fingers cause increased deflection.

My Car:
In my case the clutch is not actually overcentering but we are reaching a point at which the pressure is lighter than the counterbalance spring force. When this happens the pedal goes to the floor. So even though the clutch is not overcentering the result is the same. You must wait on the rpm to drop or physically pull the pedal back up a couple of inches before it can overcome the counterbalance spring.

My car is being fitted with a revised pedal-box spring assembly which I believe to be the one now listed in the parts catalog for Job 2 (8-15-2010) cars.

If you dont have an issue dont worry about it but if you do this would be my starting point. I supect the offending spring could be eliminated completely at the cost of increased clutch effort but you go their at your own risk.

PS I wasnt going to post this until my car was actually fixed but the latest plan is to replace all parts at one time (they are replacing the entire clutch system im my car) so I will have no way to confirm the actual fix.
Thx for posting the info, and also good to know they found a fix for it. Would that have anything to do with any of the holds right now ? Have you heard of other similar 5.0 clutch issues while at the dealership ? So if i get this right, it is a diaphram spring issue.

Last edited by montreal ponies; Jun 7, 2010 at 06:11 PM.
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 06:11 PM
  #4  
Falchion's Avatar
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Hmm, thanks for the info! Maybe this is the cause of the hold?
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 06:14 PM
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Interesting, tks for the info, as always.

Also....uh....look at the subject line, Gene. Do believe your car is a 2011.
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 06:18 PM
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Gene K's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Kahdir
Thanks for keeping us posted.

Is the dealer or Ford giving you a loaner during this process or are you driving the car until they can preform the service (same day) while you wait?
The revised pedal-spring assembly from Ford Engineering is here. Some of the regular production parts are causing a holdup. I believe they may be coming from production.

Im driving the car. The issue only occurs at 6400+ rpm. In daily driving its a non-issue.

Its going to take more than a day (They are replacing the entire mechanical and hydraulic system. I assume its being shipped to engineering to check all the tolerances ansd possibly bench test the assembly).

Im getting a loaner.

Last edited by Gene K; Jun 7, 2010 at 06:22 PM.
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 06:22 PM
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montreal ponies's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Gene K
The revised part from Ford Engineering is here. Some of the regular production parts are causing a holdup. I believe they may be coming from production.

Im driving the car. The issue only occurs at 6400+ rpm. In daily driving its a non-issue.

Its going to take more than a day (They are replacing the entire mechanical and hydraulic system I assume so they can ship it all to engineering for a look see). Im getting a loaner.
That would make sense that the newer built cars did get the revised part and that the later built cars are on hold and being taken care of. Thx for the input.
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 06:23 PM
  #8  
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this is cool gene and thanks for sharing. Its almost like you're lucky to have the problem cuz I'd love to chat it up with some Ford engineers. You can ask them stuff about the car no one else would know
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 06:25 PM
  #9  
Gene K's Avatar
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Originally Posted by BLKCLOUD
Interesting, tks for the info, as always.

Also....uh....look at the subject line, Gene. Do believe your car is a 2011.
Oops! Thanks.

Did the best I could to fix it. Hopefully a mod will take care of it.
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 07:00 PM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by montreal ponies
That would make sense that the newer built cars did get the revised part and that the later built cars are on hold and being taken care of. Thx for the input.
The newer cars don't have the revised part yet as far as we can tell. If Ford decides to bump up the introduction date then the part site will change to reflect the earlier date. As it stands the part is slated to go online for Job 2.
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 03:43 PM
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SOCALJer's Avatar
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Interesting...i was of thinking of getting the 2011 GT. Should I wait for the 2012 GTs???
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 04:27 PM
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Here's a video that shows how the design of the 2011 pedals overcenters. It's not the clutch, but the pedals that do it.

Some more info comparing the 2011 GT pedal tree to the 2010 GT500.

By the way the Dual-mass flywheel that we heard about (and KC showed us pics of), did NOT make it into production. 2011 GT's are shipping with a standard type flywheel and clutch.
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 07:10 PM
  #13  
kona stang10's Avatar
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read this pal... problem solved:

http://mustangforums.com/forum/5-0l-...issue-fix.html
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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 01:44 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by PTRocks
Here's a video that shows how the design of the 2011 pedals overcenters. It's not the clutch, but the pedals that do it.


By the way the Dual-mass flywheel that we heard about (and KC showed us pics of), did NOT make it into production. 2011 GT's are shipping with a standard type flywheel and clutch.
im wondering if the pedal design, was for the Dual Mass Flywheel.

and im still wondering why they switched to hydraulics.. had no issues with "pedal pressure" on my 95
running a centerforce II clutch with a tremec and a fork out of and fox body with the stock quadrant.. the secret was making sure the **** cable stayed lubricated.. and pedal pressure was a light as it is on the 2011
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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 07:23 AM
  #15  
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From: KC, MO
I'm guessing the design was intended to provide a lighter feel when the clutch is pressed in. Kind of like how a compound bow works. They probably just need to tweak it a bit.
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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 08:17 AM
  #16  
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From: CT
Gene, sorry you're dealing with this.... but I guess we're lucky that it's you because you have been awesome about keeping everyone informed.

Thank you!

Good luck... looking forward to hearing that you car is perfect after the instalation of the revised box.
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