2011 6speed to a 2015 up 6-speed swao
#1
Member
Thread Starter
2011 6speed to a 2015 up 6-speed swao
Ok Guys everyone down on the gtrag Mt82 and my question is can I swap it out with a later Mustang GT 6-Speed like a 2015 & up? If what issues will I run into doing the swap? Anyone done this already? Thanks for your input
#2
Legacy TMS Member
You can, but... why? Excepting the Shelby, they are still an MT82. The exception is the 2018 and up 5.0s... which are MT82-D4. These latter transmissions have a different set of ratios to take advantage of the higher power output of the '18+ motors.
Overall, there is no reason to swap MT82 for MT82, IMO. Unless you have an issue, don't do anything. Just wait for the chinese made thing to blow up and then attack that problem. Until then... just enjoy it while it lasts however long it lasts. If you simply must, though, I'd source another MT82 and send it out to get built up better than Ford's setup, and then swap it out, if I were to do anything. I mean, if you were going to acquire a different one anyway, do that. If you could park the car for a bit, then just yank the current one and send it out directly, put it back in when it gets back.
Here's a page from CJ Pony Parts that might be helpful. You can also google up 'MT82 vs MT82-D4' and see what you think as well.
Now, as I mentioned the Shelby, if you were to acquire a Tremec 3160 or a T56XL, then maybe...? Bit of coin for each of those, but hey... it's a thing.
Hope that helps, and belated welcome to the forums, ya lurker you!
Overall, there is no reason to swap MT82 for MT82, IMO. Unless you have an issue, don't do anything. Just wait for the chinese made thing to blow up and then attack that problem. Until then... just enjoy it while it lasts however long it lasts. If you simply must, though, I'd source another MT82 and send it out to get built up better than Ford's setup, and then swap it out, if I were to do anything. I mean, if you were going to acquire a different one anyway, do that. If you could park the car for a bit, then just yank the current one and send it out directly, put it back in when it gets back.
Here's a page from CJ Pony Parts that might be helpful. You can also google up 'MT82 vs MT82-D4' and see what you think as well.
Now, as I mentioned the Shelby, if you were to acquire a Tremec 3160 or a T56XL, then maybe...? Bit of coin for each of those, but hey... it's a thing.
Hope that helps, and belated welcome to the forums, ya lurker you!
Last edited by houtex; 4/22/21 at 07:50 PM.
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m05fastbackGT (4/23/21)
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Great information Sir, my problem is the rumors, but my transmission works pretty well. I have a vibration issue, it starts getting really bad a 100 and keeps getting worst. ( never pushed it over 110). I am limited because of the vibration. Removed drive shaft took it to a drive shaft shop they put it on their balancer and spun it up and check out perfect. When I first got this after a 45 minute run down interstate at 75 mph, I got off and could hardly change gears. Got it home dropped the fluid very milky!
Flushed trans with atf and the filled with Royal Purple and shifts fine now. QUESTION: Maybe I have a bad bearing in the Getrag? I check the rear end grease as well all good, not milky. Balanced the tires as well. Suggestions? I was thing of maybe a late model transmission would be better for me. Thanks Guys for all the information.
Flushed trans with atf and the filled with Royal Purple and shifts fine now. QUESTION: Maybe I have a bad bearing in the Getrag? I check the rear end grease as well all good, not milky. Balanced the tires as well. Suggestions? I was thing of maybe a late model transmission would be better for me. Thanks Guys for all the information.
#4
THE RED FLASH ------ Master-Moderator
You can, but... why? Excepting the Shelby, they are still an MT82. The exception is the 2018 and up 5.0s... which are MT82-D4. These latter transmissions have a different set of ratios to take advantage of the higher power output of the '18+ motors.
Overall, there is no reason to swap MT82 for MT82, IMO. Unless you have an issue, don't do anything. Just wait for the chinese made thing to blow up and then attack that problem. Until then... just enjoy it while it lasts however long it lasts. If you simply must, though, I'd source another MT82 and send it out to get built up better than Ford's setup, and then swap it out, if I were to do anything. I mean, if you were going to acquire a different one anyway, do that. If you could park the car for a bit, then just yank the current one and send it out directly, put it back in when it gets back.
Here's a page from CJ Pony Parts that might be helpful. You can also google up 'MT82 vs MT82-D4' and see what you think as well.
Now, as I mentioned the Shelby, if you were to acquire a Tremec 3160 or a T56XL, then maybe...? Bit of coin for each of those, but hey... it's a thing.
Hope that helps, and belated welcome to the forums, ya lurker you!
Overall, there is no reason to swap MT82 for MT82, IMO. Unless you have an issue, don't do anything. Just wait for the chinese made thing to blow up and then attack that problem. Until then... just enjoy it while it lasts however long it lasts. If you simply must, though, I'd source another MT82 and send it out to get built up better than Ford's setup, and then swap it out, if I were to do anything. I mean, if you were going to acquire a different one anyway, do that. If you could park the car for a bit, then just yank the current one and send it out directly, put it back in when it gets back.
Here's a page from CJ Pony Parts that might be helpful. You can also google up 'MT82 vs MT82-D4' and see what you think as well.
Now, as I mentioned the Shelby, if you were to acquire a Tremec 3160 or a T56XL, then maybe...? Bit of coin for each of those, but hey... it's a thing.
Hope that helps, and belated welcome to the forums, ya lurker you!
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Vegasmax (4/24/21)
#5
Legacy TMS Member
Great information Sir, my problem is the rumors, but my transmission works pretty well. I have a vibration issue, it starts getting really bad a 100 and keeps getting worst. ( never pushed it over 110). I am limited because of the vibration. Removed drive shaft took it to a drive shaft shop they put it on their balancer and spun it up and check out perfect. When I first got this after a 45 minute run down interstate at 75 mph, I got off and could hardly change gears. Got it home dropped the fluid very milky!
Flushed trans with atf and the filled with Royal Purple and shifts fine now. QUESTION: Maybe I have a bad bearing in the Getrag? I check the rear end grease as well all good, not milky. Balanced the tires as well. Suggestions? I was thing of maybe a late model transmission would be better for me. Thanks Guys for all the information.
Flushed trans with atf and the filled with Royal Purple and shifts fine now. QUESTION: Maybe I have a bad bearing in the Getrag? I check the rear end grease as well all good, not milky. Balanced the tires as well. Suggestions? I was thing of maybe a late model transmission would be better for me. Thanks Guys for all the information.
Oh, I thought about maybe telling you to put that thing on jackstands and doing it that way, but... yeah, no. Not enough height, plus it could jump off the stands at that wheel speed. That, and it's possible that with no load on the tires, the driveline would 'bounce' about and damage something like the CV joint or pinion or such. Really not the greatest of ideas ya ask me.
Basically... you probably need a speed shop to help ya out at this point is what I'm sayin'. Could be literally anything. Including that transmission. Milky fluid. Yeah, possible... But again, I'd have to have seen it.
As far as if you really need a transmission... do consider the build option. You'll get a better built transmission than a scrap yard swap out. If you do swap it, fine, your call after all, but don't get past the 2017 as I understand it, as your car may not do well with the 18+. Also, I'm not entirely certain you can use anything but a 2011-2014, and I'd probably just stay in those years. They *might* all be the same, but it is a model change in '15, so... Buyer beware, but more importantly, be informed!
Last edited by houtex; 4/23/21 at 06:02 PM.
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Vegasmax (4/24/21)
#6
Member
Thread Starter
WoW!!!! I got some sound common Sense advice, with the reason why to back up their advice. That being said, OK I'll rebuild and not swap it out. PS No metal of any kind in the drained milky fluid. What about pinion angle? This is a complete custom build, a 2011 on top of a 1971 Torino GT 500 , see avatar. Love it!!!! I am looking there next. Had this problem with a 33 Vicky and that ended up being the cause of the viberation at only 70 mph. Thanks Guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Great Help!!!!!!!!!
#7
Legacy TMS Member
Good to hear on the no-metal. So what that possibly means is that there's a bad seal on the transmission and water's intruded. It really can't have been overfilled and aerated the fluid, unless someone filled it while it was upended on the bench. Nobody would do that, of course... Can't really come up with anything else in the MT82 that'd 'milkify' the fluid... But if there is, the rebuild will fix it all up anyway.
Pinion angle can certainly come into play, and you need to check that out, definitely. Anything over an inch lowered will cause issues, but for your build, I don't know what all's goin on there. Still, I'm sure you know, but they sell adjustable control arms for that axle, so it can be reasonably easily fixed. Still, depending on how long (if it's the case) the pinion angle was wrong, there might be a pinion seal or such that needs fixin', and maybe the U/CV joint in the back has taken an unfortunate beating. Although you did already say the driveshaft has been checked out, so probably not... yet...?
Also, I'm sure you're talking about a one piece aluminum (or even CF) driveshaft and not the heavy OEM two piece thing with the unreplaceable carrier bearing, right?
Glad I could help some, and let us know what happens as you move right along on this thing.
And hey, c'mon now... PICS!
Pinion angle can certainly come into play, and you need to check that out, definitely. Anything over an inch lowered will cause issues, but for your build, I don't know what all's goin on there. Still, I'm sure you know, but they sell adjustable control arms for that axle, so it can be reasonably easily fixed. Still, depending on how long (if it's the case) the pinion angle was wrong, there might be a pinion seal or such that needs fixin', and maybe the U/CV joint in the back has taken an unfortunate beating. Although you did already say the driveshaft has been checked out, so probably not... yet...?
Also, I'm sure you're talking about a one piece aluminum (or even CF) driveshaft and not the heavy OEM two piece thing with the unreplaceable carrier bearing, right?
Glad I could help some, and let us know what happens as you move right along on this thing.
And hey, c'mon now... PICS!
Last edited by houtex; 4/24/21 at 12:01 PM.
#8
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I'm thinking maybe driveline angles causing the vibration, just a wild guess, could be any of those other things . . . the angles in and out of the driveshaft should be equal and opposite to cancel-out the "phasing" issues when the joints are not straight. The driveshaft can balance perfectly outside the car, but still have this problem. In the S197 Mustang, the driveline angles are not ideal, and that is part of the reason why they use the two-piece driveshaft. On your custom Torino build . . . all bets are off, I have no idea what your driveline angles are. I'm guessing you have a one-piece driveshaft and that makes the angles more critical.
Checking the pinion angle would be a good place to start.
Checking the pinion angle would be a good place to start.
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