davids2toys

gee, I might have the faggy light posi, I have no noise in the turns at all! :angry: :

05stangkc

Think of the Three Bears! Yours is Just Right! heck Something had to go right after all the Grief You Had Just Getting Your Car!

kc

davids2toys

LOL...I put my mutant spinners on today...superb indeed!!!

RadBOSS

Drive train noise - I think the clunk you are refering to has to do with throttle hang. Ford has tuned these motors so when you lift off the throttle is has a built in delay of the rate of RPM drop. As you release the clutch from the up shift the engine is still going too fast relative to the rest of the drive train ... trans to diff ... when it snaps up to catch up with the engine you get the clunk which is all the clearances and back lash being taken out. Throttle hang sucks ... have the same problem on my SVT Contour. Believe this is an emissions related consideration. Hope to tune it down with an Xcalibrator.

As for the posi its designed to try and slip under low input torque conditions while turning. If the road is really slippery it will have a tendency to lock suddenly and you will know it as the rear tires break traction ... probably more so with an auto ... at least our MkVII LSC was that way (RIP). I have not seen the inside of the 05 unit, but the one on my 69 BOSS is designed to increase the clutch load as input torque increases. Tire hop and skip while turning is also dependent on the surface you are turning on. As long as its not acting like a Detroit Locker (violent lock up), and does try to gradually lock up under load, there is probably nothing wrong with it. Additional friction modifier may settle some down, but i would not get carried away and add more than one dose of the stuff.

05stangkc

BUMP

BuzzyStang05

Thanks KC - was just about to have this TSB looked at. May try the self service option first. Is the stuff of which you speak?

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_...rtKeyField=6929

Can you hook me up with a bottle?

BTW- you've been busy on the forums today! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/wink.gif[/img]

05stangkc

Get a Bottle of XL3 At your Local Dealer. Approx $6.00

BuzzyStang05

Ok, I'm a noob - how does a DIY'er pour the XL-3 in without making a mess? Last night I had the car up on rear jackstands, with the car's nose pointing down. As I pulled the differential plug out, it started leaking out gear fluid. I chickened out and put the plug back in before trying to squirt the stuff in.

Should I have the car level or try to jack up from the front to get the plug angle facing up?

05stangkc

Sounds Like is a bit overfull. Jack it up front and back on the side the plug is on. That way the Hole be higher up. BE CAREFUL!!! Use Jack Stands!

kc

tom281

Once again, this site is potentially saving me headaches!!! My rearend just started making this noise and after reading these threads, I'll try the additive hopefully this weekend and report back!

Thanks to all,

Tom

tom281

Added the XL3 additive, drove for about 15 minutes, and my noise is gone. I tried turning and figure-8's and everything I could, and I have no more noise. Very happy!

Thanks,

Tom

05stangkc

Glad to help! A diff Problem can be a real pain in the Rear!

tom281

mot250

Crap! I wish this thread would have been in the warratee section! My rear started making this noise about 3 or 4 weeks ago (after 7 months of no problem) and I just had the dealer perform the TSB sevice this week after what I thought was an exhaustive search on the subject.

Oh well. Now what signs do I watch for to tell when these so called thinner service clutches begin failing? Does anyone know the part number for the thicker (originally stock) clutch pack for when I need to have them replaced again?

05stangkc

They Have Changed TSB'S Since this Topic Started. Tell me What Part Numbers are on your Repair Order and I can tell you what was actually Done!

KC

mot250

I had to call the service manager at my dealersip. They had not included the part numbers on the repair order paperwork.

Differential Clutch pack PN 6L1Z4947B for TSB 06-12-10

I also had the fuel pump replaced for the hesitation issue as in TSB 06-9-6. Fuel pump PN 7R3Z9H307C, if there is anything I need to know about the pump as well.

My car is an 06 GT manual transmission with 18 inch ford wheels and stock 3.55 gears, if that is of any assistance.

Thanks in advance for your help!

05stangkc

The Fuel Pump is Fine it will help. Don't Sweat the Clutch Pack replacement. The Info was just provided to let people decide if they could live with a little groan for a bit more Stout Diff. The Replacement should work just fine!

black sunshine

I think I might have this differential problem on my car. The noise is hard to explain. Feels like a rubbing noise......probably the tires....feels like the car is not rolling smoothly as I make slow sharper then usual turns.....is this what others have experienced???........My first thought was that the car barely has 700 miles on it and it probably needs to be broken in......I was going to give it a few thousand..........Is the XL3 additive necessary????......Thought at first it had some sore of problem with the power steering but I think it's the diff. from reading this forum.......any advice...info????

BuzzyStang05

That sounds like the noise black. Going against my earlier posts - unless the grinding/binding noise is really mild and intermittent, I would also recommend having the dealership perform the most recent 06-12-10 TSB and not bother with putting the XL-3 in yourself. It's under warranty - have them do the work. The TSB has changed the clutch pack part # three times, and the last couple of TSB's have been S197 Mustang specific only. I don't think the weaker clutch pack that started this thread is an issue anymore.

I've had other rear axle issues with the 55-65 MPH TSB, and during one ring and pinion replacement where I had the extra XL-3 in, they told me my carrier bearings were abnormally worn and had to replace those, too. Could've been a bad install the first go around, could've been the XL-3, could've been something un-related. But for now, as long as the car is under warranty, I am not self-diagnosing my problems anymore. I hate taking it to the dealer as much as the next guy (seems like I leave there with a new paint blemish each time), but I'd rather be able to place the responsibility on them and get them to keep fixing it, than have to eat crow and fork over the dough for them to fix what I broke playing mechanic.

Venom800

Is it difficult to add the XL-3 to your rear diff? Do you need to jack your car up? I am not that mechanically inclined and I am wondering if I can do this myself. Any help will be much appreciated. Thanks.