Factory HID's?
#83
http://F:\DCIM\101M1063\101_0029.JPG iam not sure how to post pictures here, i have a few more things to sell also, factory alloy dash all parts, ford nav radio, i could email you pics.
Last edited by marko; 1/4/09 at 01:35 PM.
#84
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Image Attachment Walk Through
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showpo...3&postcount=12
Ahh, Here I'll do a little walk through for you too.![Thumb](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/thumb.gif)
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Placing the images into the body of your post or how to "Upload File from a URL" can be covered in a new tutorial...
Ahh, Here I'll do a little walk through for you too.
![Thumb](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/thumb.gif)
When you "Reply to Thread" scroll down a little to the "Attach Files" section and push the "Manage Attachments" button.
A new "Manage Attachments" window will pop up.
You can then choose to "Upload File from your Computer" by selecting one of the "Browse" buttons.
A new "File Upload" window will pop up. Browse to the picture file you want to upload, and select "open".
That window will close and you will be back at the "Manage Attachments" window. Browse to and select up to 4 image files, then select "upload"
Done. You have just attached your image files to your post.
![Headbang](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/headbang.gif)
Placing the images into the body of your post or how to "Upload File from a URL" can be covered in a new tutorial...
http://F:\DCIM\101M1063\101_0029.JPG iam not sure how to post pictures here, i have a few more things to sell also, factory alloy dash all parts, ford nav radio, i could email you pics.
#85
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http://www.silverhorseracing.com/ins...%20Mustang.pdf
Thanks To Silverhorse Racing for a How to do it with the Factory Hid's!
KC
Thanks To Silverhorse Racing for a How to do it with the Factory Hid's!
KC
#86
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I've got a question about these. How come every place (ebay) I see these for sale says that it includes connectors to connect to the HID's without using the HID harness? Silverhorse is using an HID harness and diodes. Obviously Silverhorse is correct since he has them working but just curious.
#87
It might be possible to fab an adapter plug to go between the stock harness and the OEM HID headlights, but it wasn't the route I wanted to take. I was actually hoping that when we did it that the harness would make it PNP, but since it was not, that's when we did up the instructions on how to adapt it in to work.
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mine came with these http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/627/img1530cav.jpg
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mine came with these http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/627/img1530cav.jpg
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I'm trying to solder the diodes in today. The problem is cutting and splicing the wire coming out of the harness, no slack which makes it difficult to solder together.
#93
I did the conversion on my 06... It's been working for a week now. I do have a question though. If my diodes are not working, what will I loose? Basically I want to know how the lights would work if I would not have done the soldering of the diodes.
And SP44, yes it was an extremely tight fit. I ended up using wire ties to pull the tension off the diodes. However, after I was done, I think my harness was a whole inch shorter
I had to use a wire tie in one place instead of the factory push pin. I wonder if these diodes could be placed lower down the harness? Maybe we w ould have more slack to solder stuff in
And SP44, yes it was an extremely tight fit. I ended up using wire ties to pull the tension off the diodes. However, after I was done, I think my harness was a whole inch shorter
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#94
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I got mine in this weekend thanks to Marcello at SilverHorse Racing. After having aftermarket HID's I can tell you that yes the lamp assemblies are much better as far as keeping the light from scattering. Definitely much better. The thing I'm disappointed with is the light output. Doesn't seem to be as bright as the aftermarket or even the OEM that I had on my Altima. Must be the 4300K rating even tough that is considered the brightest. Anybody buy some D3R/D3S replacement bulbs at the higher scale?
Last edited by sp44; 12/1/09 at 09:00 PM.
#95
You would lose lights when flipping to high beams and FTP (flash to pass) would not work either.
You could put the diodes anywhere in the harness you like, but done right, they work well right in the grey cap area. Plus, since you have to move some wires anyway, it makes sense to do the work right there, rather than opening up the harness downstream and then having to close it all back up. As SP44 can attest, there should be no shortening of the harness to make it work, as there is no cutting of the stock wires.
You could put the diodes anywhere in the harness you like, but done right, they work well right in the grey cap area. Plus, since you have to move some wires anyway, it makes sense to do the work right there, rather than opening up the harness downstream and then having to close it all back up. As SP44 can attest, there should be no shortening of the harness to make it work, as there is no cutting of the stock wires.
#96
SP good to hear - I was worried with that one, but its good that it worked out well for you. It isn't the "brightest" setup out there, but it is legal, and all OEM, so no worries with the local PD or blinding oncoming drivers. It is a lot better than the OE halogens, which is what I compare them to. Heck, I'm thinking about doing something similar for our 01 F350, just need to figure out what I'm going to get in there - looking at 07 Harley Davidson HID lights as an option, time to get the soldering gun out
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#97
HMMM I cut my wires
I'm guessing you made the connections by removing the wires from the block and then soldering to the spaded connectors ??? Man if you happen to have a picture of the block after you are done that would be great. idk, I'm not going back in unless something breaks, but it may be a good reference for others. I don't mind the soldering, it was the limited space I was working with that made it difficult. Thanks Marcello
I'm guessing you made the connections by removing the wires from the block and then soldering to the spaded connectors ??? Man if you happen to have a picture of the block after you are done that would be great. idk, I'm not going back in unless something breaks, but it may be a good reference for others. I don't mind the soldering, it was the limited space I was working with that made it difficult. Thanks Marcello
#98
Yeah, I took some this time for a magazine article I'm working on - in my spare time (as if)...
I'll have to convert them down for web use, but basically yes, I tin the pins, then solder a jumper to them, then solder and heatshrink the diode to the jumpers. Lay it all down and it isn't even noticable when it's done.
I'll have to convert them down for web use, but basically yes, I tin the pins, then solder a jumper to them, then solder and heatshrink the diode to the jumpers. Lay it all down and it isn't even noticable when it's done.
#99
Marcello,
That was the answer I was hoping to hear. So if my work does wig out, I still at least have functional headlights![Smile](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
One more quick question. How does the grid box electronically connect to the fuses? Thanks again, I should have asked before I did mine, but it's working great and I love the new lights.
SP44, if we could get a different light spectrum, that would be awesome. I don't think it would improve the brightness of them though. I'm guessing they may be 35 watts and no projector to help control the light better. My wife's TL does seem somewhat brighter, but I bet it's because the light is "projected" and not reflected.
That was the answer I was hoping to hear. So if my work does wig out, I still at least have functional headlights
![Smile](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
One more quick question. How does the grid box electronically connect to the fuses? Thanks again, I should have asked before I did mine, but it's working great and I love the new lights.
SP44, if we could get a different light spectrum, that would be awesome. I don't think it would improve the brightness of them though. I'm guessing they may be 35 watts and no projector to help control the light better. My wife's TL does seem somewhat brighter, but I bet it's because the light is "projected" and not reflected.
#100
I'm not sure I understand what you're asking - are you asking how does the grey wiring connector connect to the fuses? If so, it's bolted through the center with a single bolt. Undo the bolt and it comes off.