SN95 Mustang 1994-2004 Mustangs Member Tech & Restoration Discussion

Installing New Shifter

Old Jun 7, 2006 | 04:47 AM
  #1  
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Installing New Shifter

I'm going to install a new Tri-Ax I bought, but what exactly needs to be removed in order to do so? I know the console doesnt need to be removed as with earlier Mustangs, but is it just the cover over the shifter that needs to be takes out?
The instructions just say that the you need to reach into the boot and pull up and outwards to lift the panel off, but don't specify what exactly is extracted. If anyone could clear this up, I'd appreciate it. By the way, I'm still waiting for another part I bought and I havent tried yet, so I'm looking for some clarification while I wait. I'm going to put the Tri-Ax in when the shipment arrives. Thanks.
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 06:20 AM
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Ha ha. We are walking the same road Dan!!! Tri-ax coming with chip when bank allows it. No clue on the install. I would guess you remove the panel and the boot for a start. Remember seeing instructions/photos on web. Will take a look for you and post if i find something. When you install any chance you could take pics?
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 09:30 AM
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Did you also get a throttle body? Because I did! I'll be installing that this weekend too. Also, I found this how-to, which looks pretty helpful, at least for removing the stock shifter:
http://www.mustangworld.com/ourpics/fcar/shift1.htm
I'll try to take some photos when I get to work on the car.
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 07:42 PM
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No throttle body yet. I am a married man and so my finances are a little stretched (or should I say observered closely). Install looks quite easy for shifter. Hope installs go well.

and now a word from my wife:

"You and that bloody car!! what are you buying now?"
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Old Jun 11, 2006 | 09:03 AM
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I put the shifter yesterday morning. It was pretty easy, just a little time consuming. I have some pics I can post later.
The shifter's really nice. Physically, it's a lot heavier and sturdier that the stock unit, and there's almost so 'wiggle' in the handle. I installed the handle in the lower position for a shorter throw, and it's definitely shorter. It's also significantly tighter than stock and requires more effort to shift. I really like it, but it takes some time to get used to the shifting times, because it's a lot quicker than stock.
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 02:30 AM
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Should be a couple of weeks before I order mine. Did you install TB and if so how did it go? Glad you like shifter.
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 05:09 AM
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Yep, I did. It was pretty easy, I just had to reassemble my CAI to do so. The TPS screws were tough to get off. I managed to break the bottom one loose, but the top wouldnt budge. I managed to get a pair of vice grips on it and turn it, but it was a pain.
Also, on mine the pin hole on the cruise control level was too small, so I had to expand the hole a little with a file. It was a pretty quick install and simple too. The car seems to have a little more pick-up in higher RPMs, and seems to have better throttle response too. When I get the chance (and $$$), I'm gonna get a plenum too.
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Old Jun 13, 2006 | 10:01 AM
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Going to replace TB and Plenum at same time. Wish I could estimate HP gain so I could justify the price. Good news is I just ordered some more decals.

We have to give our cars a touch of class dont you know.

http://www.mustangtuning.com/aiwapade.html
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Old Jun 13, 2006 | 01:34 PM
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I've seen from reliable sources that 8 to 10 hp is pretty standard for a plenum and TB combination. The problem with the stock plenum is that it makes a very sharp turn from the TB down towards the intake manifold. Aftermarket plenums smooth out the turn, which you need to maximize the power potential of the TB (and your decal).

By the way, this post looks more like an IM conversation. So far we're the only ones to post anything, lol.
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Old Jun 13, 2006 | 01:46 PM
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I'll break up the IM - who's selling aftermarket plenums? This is the first I've heard of that. Everyone's into the plenum covers (including me), but no one's said anything about aftermarket plenums.
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Old Jun 13, 2006 | 07:45 PM
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There are some listed here: http://www.mustangtuning.com/mustang...le-bodies.html
There are others too, just try searching through other Mustang sites. I'm not sure what exactly is available for SN197s though.
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Old Jun 13, 2006 | 07:47 PM
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Glad you like the Tri-Ax. I have one in my Mach, but with a Hurst stick/T-Handle combo, a la old school Mach.
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Old Jun 13, 2006 | 11:08 PM
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Which TB did you go for? Looking at BBK but the Accufab looks kinda neat also. You think there is a significant difference between 70 and 75?
You noticed an increase in high end performance but was there any change in the low end? Since fitting my exhaust I have noticed a slight drop in the low range but a noticable change in mid to high range.
Also did you buy the gaskets or use silicone?

So much for our IM session..... How dare they interupt!!!!!
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 04:48 AM
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I have the Accufab. The 70mm is sufficient for a N/A engine with no engine work like cams or heads. The engine can only consume so much gas/air during use, so using a larger diameter TB only slows down the air flow, hurting performance. The same theory applies to exhaust diameter.

I used the supplied gasket, but applied a thin layer of gasket sealer to the side facing the TB because my gasket had a crease and slight tear in it, and I wanted to secure the seal. If you can get the plenum and TB at the same time, you'll definitely save some time.

Also: Jason, where did you get the Hurst handle? I looked around online for one for Father's Day for my dad's '03 GT, but I couldnt find a Hurst handle that fit the T-3650. Is that what's it your car? If so, I'd like to get one. Thanks
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 11:58 AM
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Dan-

I purchased the 'combo' from Colorado Mustangs about 2 years ago. The Hurst Stick and T-Handle can be bought from Summitt, Hurst, etc., but the boot was another matter. It is a old F-100, Bronco boot that isn't made anymore (or at least the last time I checked).

Part #'s
Ford Boot - D5TZ-7277-A
Hurst T-handle - 153 4813 (3/8" - 16)
Hurst Stick - 5380015





And the Tri-Ax was purchased direct from Steeda.

All bolted up well, no issues whatsoever. Didn't even have to glue the boot. The last ring secures in in the trim piece.
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