So I just bought a 2003 4.6 GT Convertiable. a little over 75k on the dash. I had the dealer change the front pads & rotors two days ago. yesterday on the way home, I noticed that the front pads were starting to smoke after about ten fifteen min worth of driving in traffic and were, what seems to me, to be way to hot. I checked the brake fluid and they had filled the brake fluid brim full past the max fill line. I guess my first question would be is it normal for the brakes to be so hot they smoke when putting on new pad and rotors? I have changed brakes and rotors before and nothing like this has ever happen, Also what misshaps could come from them over filling the brake fluid ? Thanks to anyone who can help me out.

 

When most rotors are brand new in boxes,
They have a coating on the so they don't rust sitting on the shelf somewhere. Most people clean them with some sort of brake clean or soap and water. It's just residual oil being burned off.

 

See the thing is though, when I have the car jacked up, shouldn't the tire be able to spin freely ? It kind of seems like the brakes are being applied without anyone touching the pedal. When I drive it, I also notice that it seems to do the same thing. So I took the tire off the car and tried to spin the rotors and it's able to be done but I notice that it's pretty **** hard to turn though. It just doesn't seem normal to me.

 

+1 on the coating but if you cant spin the wheel freely then something else is wrong. Either siezed caliper, slide pins, or collapsed brake line

 

It some what spins freely but nothing like it was before I had the brakes done, Is there anyway of telling which it might be without having to take it to a brake shop?

 

Oh and thanks for your help man. I really appreciate it. Oh and if you or anyone knows any thing about a weird whining noise, kinda of sounds like a cricket or something when I don't have my clutch engaged , but when I do have in engaged it stops it doesn't do it constantly but mostly when the car is first cranked over night or been sitting for more than a couple hours. They guy I bought it from said he just replaced the clutch. Anyone else ever heard this noise?

 

ive never heard the noise from the clutch, but it definitely sounds like the slider pins are gunked up, or the pistons are getting jammed, which can happen from brake dust being caked on. When I put new brakes/rotors on mine didnt smoke at all, so I dont think that's it.

 

The noise you here when clutch isn't engaged is the throw out bearing/pilot bearing. Not too major mines done it since I bought it 6 months ago. 50 dollar part. 500 labor. Squeeks when clutch isn't pressed but when it is it stops? If so I'm pretty sure that's your problem. Get louder exhaust lol.

 

Yup, it would be your throw out bearing making the clutch noise. Mine started squeaking the day after I put it in... You can imagine how happy that made me.

As for the pads, were they OEM? I have heard some horror stories about the "extra long life" pads being thicker than they physically could be with a new rotor, and basically "braking" all the time since they can't release. I don't know if that is the case, but it's unlikely that your brake caliper seized at the same time you had everything changed.

 

Yeah I was thinking the same thing. I had a tow truck co e get her today. I didn't want to drive it just in case it was something else. I'll find out first thing in the morning so hopefully it won't cost me too much. They weren't OEM so that may be the problem. 50 dollar part and 500 in labor. Pssshhh I'll go for the louder exhaust method lol. Well that's of course as long as it's not going to mess with anything else and all I have to do is hear the cricket ?

 

Yeah that's exactly what it is doing. It won't wear anything down with the clutch or Anything will it?

 

It's kind of a tell tale sign that it is not packed with grease anymore. That being said, it could break tomorrow, or it could live for years. Mine was squealing for two years before I sold the car. The reason I changed the clutch was because the original tob failed and part of it melted to the input shaft retainer... So it all depends on if you want to fix it while it's running, or wait for something catastrophic.

 

So, basically I need to have it fixed sooner than later. I guess I need to find someone here in Georgia to get that fixed ASAP then. Hopefully someone who isn't going to charge me 500 in labor aha ha

 

So i got the stang back this afternoon, the brake calibers had seized up, so it was grinding my pads and rotors down that I just had replaced a week ago. so I had to get new rotors, pads, break flush, and new calibers. I actually got away kind of cheap only 390 for parts & labor. Thanks for everyones help in trying to figure out my problem here, you guys are all gentlemen and scholars in my book :-)

 

I'm not sure how mechanically inclined you are, but my clutch job in the 94 took about a solid day, but wasn't at all hard; just very tedious. I would really recommend doing the clutch at the same time, since it's hard to believe that the clutch isn't showing its wear around the same time as the TOB, and since it's all apart anyway... Might as well.

Just buy a manual, or look up a how-to online and you should be fine with a jack, two jackstands and a buddy who doesn't mind getting dirty with you.

 

Yeah I just don't think I could handle a job of that size myself, I'm just bought my baby about 2 weeks ago. So I'm not up to par doing trannys and engine rebuild and all that, plus I'm pretty lacking on tools, however my buddy from works next door neighbor has worked for ford as a mechanic for fifteen years or so. I'm hoping I can talk this guy into helping me do it and teach me a few things along they way.