Good call. I really wish I had gone that route instead of doing things peice by peice.

 

Well I picked this car up last year and I've been asking around ever since then what mods should come first. I used to have an rx-8 (2008) but I hated that rotary engine and no one around here know how to work on it. It handled like a dream though that was it's strong point. Anyway I sold that thing for about 18k and bought my gt for 10k. Have the xtra 8k set aside for "emergencies" haha.

Anyway after a year of driving this pony I've compiled a long list of things I wanna change and handling was the first concern. It drives fine but nowhere near how it should, same goes for power. Has enough to get the job done but that's just didn't do it for me. So sub frames, full suspension, then comes power (cai, pi heads, full exhaust, etc.)

 

Not a bad list but you already have pi heads so maybe some trickflows

 

Whoops forgot gt's came with pi heads haha but yea definitely trick flows.

 

I just read above and someone is recommending a cai. On a 2v a cai is a complete waste of money. The stocker already is a cold air intake. Buying one improves nothing. An what year is your mustang. If it's 96-98 Pi swap for sure. I got everything you need to do the swap. From fuel rails,upper and lower intake. Windsor heads. Plenum.everything but the coil packs and valve covers.

 

It's an 02 gt
And I wouldn't say it's a waste. I've had too much personal experience of cold airs adding power and seat if the pants feel. My buddy has pretty much the exact same car as I do, just blue instead of black. He added a bbk cold air intake and along with an sct tune he got about 18 extra horses to the rear wheels

 

Well that's entirely possible on other motors. A 2v gets no benefit from a cai. Pull the silencer off the airbox and put in a high flow air filter. Done deal. Unless your going for looks. And the bbk unit is no better than the stocker. Same size pipes. I have one. I went back to stock. I also have an sct tune on my car and the power increase came from the tune. Simply look at them. The stocker is about 3 1/2 inches,so is the bbk. The stocker has a gradual bend whereas the bbk is more of an elbow. A cai on a 2v will do absolutely nothing on it's own. I know from experience. I spent the money and got no gain. Other than a stupid sucking sound because the bbk is less insulated because it's thin metal,not thick rubber. If you want a cai I would be happy to sell you my shiny pos waste of money bbk. Brand new filter. And it looks nice. And does nothing for power.

 

And your buddy that has all this stuff got to a dyno to check right. I have those 2 same mods but I also have a pp plenum and Accufab tb and honestly if someone told me they got 18 hp on a 2v from a cai and tune I will tell ya right now they are lying. A 2v with those 2 mods will get 10 hp tops. And it's all from the tune. 18 hp on a 2v from a cai. Total joke. What's next. Shorty headers on a 2v gives ya 20 hp too. This totally made my day. Ha. A 3v and a 4v do benefit because their intakes are a bit restrictive. Not a 2v. I have 268 rwhp and will hit the 300 mark this weekend with my new mhs cams and DYNO tune. And that was 268 Thru the stock rubber intake and 268 thru my bbk. I learned from experience they do nothing. Not what my buddy told me. I got a bbk for sale if you want to waste your cash. 100 bucks plus the ride

 

Well didn't mean to push your buttons here. Shorty's don't do anything I know that much but a tune alone on an all stock without the "bs" cai can net ya somewhere near 10hp because of...meh why do I try obviously I'm not getting anywhere with anything I say. Good day sir

 

I will say on a stock motor the cai isn't really work much. Paired with a tune you will see some small gains from the cai alone but not much. Do you know what tuen you buddy was running and what supporting mods he has? Depending on that could have effective the hp increase. JLT makes a good intake, the bbk is a waste. Of money. You can find ebay ones for 50 bucks that are the same design. If it were me the cai would be last on my list.

Ill throw this in there that not all cars are created equal. Some motors respond differently to mods then others even if they are the same motor.

 

I am only commenting because I found out the hard way. Being parted with my money. My bro has a speed shop here so I get free dyno time. I actually tested a bbk,k&n and JLT and the JLT and k&n cost bottom end torque and top end hp. They are too big. The velocity of the air charge is slowed. If you want gains on a 2v start with the plenum. That thing on the motor with the horse on it. Ditch that first. Dragon,Accufab and professional products make a nice piece. Forget that bbk plenum/tb combo. It's cheap for a reason. Accufab is the best tb you can buy however 70mm is as big as you want to go unless you plan on boosting the motor. Again due to the velocity of the air charge. The plastic intake is pretty much perfect til you hit power levels above stock internal limits so no need to change it. I am sorry for getting wound up. If you want any real world 2v advice I am all ears. I have tried it all on these motors so I got a good knowledge of what works and what doesn't. Long tubes are a great investment. But they are an investment due to difficulty of install. Gears are a must. I went with motive 3.90s and there is no whine at all,1st gear is useful and I get better city mileage and roughly the same on highway if I keep my foot out of it. And with 3.90s I finish the 1/4 in 4th gear and 5900 rpm. With 4.10s you would need to grab 5th to finish the pass

 

Well I already have the accufab 70mm combo on the list. I've heard so many good things about that package it was one of the first things on the list along with 4.10 gears. I'm going to be road racing more than drag so the stronger pull is going to really helpful coming out of turns. Plus with 305's (maybe) out back I'll have alot of tire to keep planted once I get my suspension done. And do longtubes fit on an auto tranny? Cuz all the ones I've seen say "for manual transmissions"

 

4.10s is a good choice too. At least it's not the 3.73s. They are a turd in N/A 4.6 2v motors. Headers might be tough by I am sure google will point you in the right direction as far as headers with an auto. If your on a budget go to the corral mustang forum. They have the largest membership on the net and their classified section is amazing. Your next cheap mod should be a plenum. That's the real restriction on a 2v. 24 pound/hour injectors would help a bit too,and injectors are easy to put in. Pm me with your exact mods and what direction you want to take the car and we can throw around some ideas of what to do next. I have some 2v go fast parts laying around so if there is something you need I can send it to ya and if I don't have it I can find. A tuner is a must have also. Sct seems to be where the market is strongest so I suggest model 3015. It has room for 3 custom tunes and has 3 sct 'canned' tunes. They are a must to accommodate your mods and can read cel codes. If you really want a cai I would be happy so send you my bbk. It's basically new,they are 200ish retail,you can have it for 100 with a brand new filter(60 bucks) plus shipping. Anyway shoot me a message and I can maybe throw some ideas out there

 

Thanks for help
And basically I'm looking for a solid DD that'll make around 300-350 hp at about and be able to handle road courses an hold it's own. I got the suspension all worked out, just power basically cuz I don't wanna go boost yet. What "go fast" parts you got?

 

K to hit 350 hp on a 2v you need to rebuild the motor with notched pistons,ported heads and a stage 3 cam. Or you can boost it. To hit 300 hp n/a you need all the bolt ons,long tubes,dyno tune,comp cams 270h I believe is the part number. These cars were built pretty much maxxed out from the factory. The 3 and 4v motors have so much more potential than these. They are very durable however. From what I have personally spent and info from other 2v owners it takes an average of 60 bucks per horsepower on these things. They can handle a 150 shot of nitrous easy( from experience) and once you figure out the differences from pushrod to cammed head motors they are easier to work on. K as far as go fast parts I got a bbk cai if you want it,a gasket matched stock plenum(hours of grinding but it was winter and I was bored) a complete zex nitrous kit,brand new k&n drop in filter,a meth kit to allow bigger shots of nitrous safely( detonation prevention). I got more stuff in garage but that's all I can really think of. Honestly,forget the bolt on and just boost it. By the time you cost factor a snail vs bolt-ons the snail is good for 100 hp whereas all the bolt-ons will net 60 tops. And then if you decide to open the motor cams will cost 800 to install plus parts for only 30 more hp. Trust me,if you can afford boost forget bolt-ons. If you spend all the money on bolt-ons then boost you won't gain much more from the snail simply because the stock guts won't take it. But if you bolt the snail on first you can take the motor to it's stock limits right off the bat with no more mods. If I could do it all over again I would bolt an m112 on top of my motor and call it done. If I added up all the money I have spent I would likely be 3000 bucks more than the blower and less net power to show for it.

 

Well yea I've wanted to go boosted for awhile but I just Anna do bolt-ins and build the engine. Honestly I rlly just wanna take an engine from a wrecked Mach 1 or cobra but that a lot of money

 

And honestly a 4v swap isn't any cheaper. I have found b heads pretty easy but then the lower intake is 600 bucks,then timing cover and tb and blah blah blah. A 2v isn't bad but a 4v has sooooooo much more potential. Well I don't have much more to add so enjoy whichever option you choose

 

Yea, once this old 2v gets "boring" I'm gonna make the switch to 4v. Crate motor so I can build the internals however which way I choose.
Thanks for helping a new guy get his bearings straight

 

So what is the best max ponys you are going to get out of a 2v ? I have an 03 vert I really want to just have her blown, but if it's not going to worth my time and effort to blow a 2v instead of just grinding it out till I can do a complete motor swap. I'm really only wanting to push 400-420hp with a blower and supporting mods. Or am i just dreaming looking for that much of a gain ? I'm not real sure on what the stock internals can handle( sorry I'm still kind of new to the whole mustang and modding scene). So would you say it would be worth it to ditch the 2v for a 3v or 4v trying to make that much power?

 

Well it's all about money and time. How much your willing to spend on each. You could get 400hp on stock internals but that's when you start pushing the envelope. 350 seems to be the safest bet from what I've seen so far. If you're willing to then I would rather get a motor from an 03-04 cobra since these come with forged internals from the factory and can handle bout 700-750hp Igbo remember correctly. I wouldn't say boostin a 2v is a waste of time, all you gotta get is some new internals, maybe a few upgraded supporting mods and your set. Ask Everett here cuz he's had more experience than me