Just got back from the dealer...I miss her already... They are going to try to order the B series. Even though they looked clueless when I mentioned it. Wish me luck. If my dash comes back with one scratch....I feel sorry for my service manager.

 

Mine was built 2/3 and I don't have any problems with the Shaker 500. I did the self test, which PASSED and the last for characters displayed was 15GB, so at least by 2/3 the factory was installing the Series-B.

Thanks for sharing the whole Series-A and Series-B business. Hopefully, Ford fixes the Active Anti-Theft global open feature soon too, so it at least works with the key FOB (keyless remote). Mines black, so this feature would come in very handy here in So FL in August. B)

 

I thought they only disabled the feature with the key in the door, not with the keyfob. The unlock button on your keyfob won't lower the windows either?

 

I ran the test and have the Shaker B but have had no problems as of yet.....keeping my fingers crossed...

 

I ran the test and have the Shaker B but have had no problems as of yet.....keeping my fingers crossed...
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Correction....I have the Shaker A and have had no problems or skipping as of yet....have tried some Mick Jagger and Almond Brothers....all tracks did fine

 

Almond brothers? How nutty is that!!!!

 

I have an '05 focus, ZX3, SES with the audiophile sustem..and it skips as well. The dealer replaced my S-500 ...but it still skips as well.

 

O.K., so my Shaker 500 "series A" had all kinds of problems--not only skipping, but a CD jammed inside the carousel and I could not play, load, or eject any CDs! Additionally, the CD player made a machine gun like popping noise every time I opened the door, or started up, as the CD player was trying to initialize with the jammed CD still inside of it.

I got the new head unit in today (March 1st) and ran the test, and my new Shaker shows a letter "H" at the end of its code. It works fine so far, but I did notice much stronger bass coming from the subwoofers in the door--everything rattles when I turn it up now (I guess that's why they call it a "Shaker," huh?)

Someone in here mentioned getting a letter "G" at the end of their code, so I am starting to wonder if this is as simple as "series A" or "series B?" Maybe the letter is just part of a serial number that has already progressed through much more of the alphabet. Maybe the early "A" serial numbers were bad units, but beginning with the "Bs," and everything after that, the problems have been mostly resolved (I hope.)

Personally, I think the changer makes way too many whirring and buzzing noises every time I change CDs. It sounds like it makes ten different motions just to load a CD. Anything with that many moving parts is doomed to failure. I am also worried that the all plastic interior will really start to rattle with age because of the door mounted subwoofers--it's pretty noticeable already.

 

the revision number is located on the back of the unit, not in the self test. the unit need to be removed for identification. my self test ends in "G".

i did see a post were the parts guy has a way of looking up the parts used to build your car using the "VIN", but i now can't find it.

 

mrv8outboard:

We had both of my units out--the old and the new--and niether one had an "A" or a "B" designation on either the part number (which is evidently the same for all of the units) or the serial number (which should be different for all of the units). There was a small, round sticker with the letter "B" on the back of the new unit, but no one has said that is how the "B" units are being labeled.

Additionally, although my CD player seems to be working fine, I am having other problems: my radio buttons are not lighting up when the lights are turned on--although they do light up in the diagnostic mode and the connections all appear to be secure. And the unit just doesn't sound the same: way too much bass. :bang:

 

For some strange reason the radio has to be 'reprogramed' - whatever that means to get the backlighting to work. It happened to me, but the dealer told me about it. Took about an hour to fix.

 

Yeah, they need to be reprogrammed. My dealer said it was the hardest stereo uninstall they've had. Too bad is what I say. Do it right the first time.

 

Got mine reprogrammed and the backlights work. Reprogramming did not solve the heavy bass from the subwoofers problem, however. Has anyone else noticed this after installing a new "B" unit? I have the bass turned way down and the subs are still strong--makes the stereo sound muddy. My "A" unit was no go, but it sounded better while it lasted.

 

Very interesting that I"m not the only one to experience this. I have noticed the exact same thing after going to a "B". The "A" was fine sound wise but now way too much base.

I had no rattles before with an "A" unit but they matererialized with the "B". So Dynamated the trunk - that fixed that problem.

I helped it some buy replacing the factory door and rear deck speakers with Pioneer 4-ways. The sound isn't as muddy now. I still have the door subs and a 10" Rockford sub and amp in the trunk. I've gotten the sound about as good as I can without ditching the head unit and going with a new 4 channel amp to power the door and rear speakers.

But I agree, the "A" sounded alot better than the "B" unit.

Earl

 

I just tested my unit and found this # 4R3T-18C8-15HJ.

Is this an "a" or "b"?

 

How many times did you run through it before you were able to get all the numbers and letters? LOL That looks like what mine said also.
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OMG around 10 times lmao
So i guess we are ok.
How is your vert treating you. man am i having fun

 

Thought I heard that FORD was switching their manufactuers of the head units.....

 

I mentioned that. And it was based on a guess from the service tech at my dealer.

I did not get to talk to him long, since he had a call to get to. But he said he is guessing based on what he read on the TSB and the number, that he thinks they might change. This is one man's opinion, so I have no real proof.

 

My dealer told me that I cant play burned cd's in my shaker 500 (I'm on unit number 2)... How else am I expected to use the MP3 feature? Right now it just keeps spitting them out saying "BAD CD"... I want a refund. I hate this system.