Yeah, I figured that would be the case. They list that as a free substitution, which was my thought.

I am going to be trying the Seas drivers on the stock amps to start, but I will look at those you mentioned.

I forgot -- the crossover caps are 15mfd, 6mfd, 3.9mfd, and 330mfd. The coils are unmarked.

RRRoamer, am I correct that one has to un-solder the wires from the factory subs? or is there a hidden spring terminal somewhere?

 

Just cut them as close to the terminals as possible, then strip/crimp female tab terminals (or whatever you need) on the wires. I wouldn't even mess with a soldering iron unless you just really want to. My hands aren't the steadiest, so I HATE soldering.

 

Well, they're in. Had to hack the mounting part on the door to fit them, but they fit nice otherwise.

They definitely seem underpowered. What's there is definitely better but not nearly enough juice. I was looking aat the factory amps and it seems like it might be set up for one for each side as opposed to a separte sub amp...how likely is that?

 

Pretty likely from what I've heard.

 

scary. I did some calculations and the Seas driver wants a box of at least .54 cubic feet. How much would polyfill help there?

right now the only reasonable dvc driver I've found is: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=290-357

 

I think This Dayton Quatro would work quite well, from memory. I don't have bassbox installed right now.

 

That's a nice one for sure, just thinking about the motor size as usual. I do like the sound from the Seas drivers on a song with lots of bass -- very tight, deep, and flat compared to stock. On the right song you can feel it more than you hear it.

I'm going to test for voltage with different wire combos to get an idea of bridgeability. There was no continuity between the separate channels

 

hmmmm...it looked like there was more voltage when I tested the "bridged" config (R+ L-), but when I hooked it up it didn't make a difference. Didn't break it either. I only did one side. I'm wondering if that indicates that the enclosure volume is more of an issue than the power?

 

With the volume being small, I bet it totally KILLS the sensitivity of the SEAS drivers. I wonder where it places the low-end rolloff? Also, I'd bet that you wouldn't be able to hear a power difference until it was around double.

 

right, double power for 3db...I think I will wait to get my polyfill before I try it again. I used the online calculator at carstereo.com, and got .54 cubes for a QTC of 1.2, which I guess is the high end of normal. I'm hoping the fill helps since it's pretty close to .3 :bang:

 

Actually, then the box would need to be a LOT bigger than even the .5. A QTC of .707 is considered electrically flat, and a larger box will lower that Q total. Maybe you would consider a ported box OR try http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.c...tnumber=296-546

 

I think the aperiodic vario-vents would be a good idea. Call Madisound back, and I'll bet they would know off the top of their heads how to tune it properly. EIther that or contact Warbleed at any of the major audio forums. The guy knows his stuff- especially when tuning iff the wall enclosures (aperiodic, passive radiators, etc).

 

Cool! Looks like it will actually almost fit in there too Much cheaper at madisound. looks like I would want both the stuffing and the vent.

carstereo.com sugested that "common" Qtc values are .9 to 1.2, which gives a bump at the low frequencies; I'd be happy with that. if the factory box really is .3 it looks like my Qtc is about 1.56...doesn't seem like the most drastic jump to fix but I don't know how hard it is.

 

Usually a higher Q will indicate a bump in sensitivity at the cost of low-end extension. It basically creates a peak in the frequecy response. On a door-mounted driver/midbass, this may be a good thing. Using the aperiodic vents should lower the Q a LOT, and smooth out the Frequency response if my old-school work with AP mats is any indication.

 

Oh, and the vents can be installed in the back of the eclosure venting into the doors. In fact, that would be the preferred method, I think. For help with those, post at the CarSound forums, either in general, or Richard Clark forum. They know a LOT more about AP venting than anyone else I can find.

 

I didn't realize though, I'd have to cut the enclosures for that, right? kinda defeats the purpose but then again, these woofers are pretty nice They're breaking in a little and sounding really good on bass-heavy songs. part of the trouble is my mids are kinda blown since they're getting a full signal and only go down to 300hz -- I ordered a new set and some bass blockers which should hold me for now. But I can't really turn it up enough to open the stage. However, the low volume sound is much better overall now.

 

Since you have to cut a hole either way, there is another option

Snake Tube ports!

You could start the port anywhere on the enclosure, and snake it around to a good spot to fire through. Of course, this would also mean a hole in the door panel, but those SEAS ported =

 

LOL this cutting may have to wait until the car is not *so* new but yeah, drool indeed...
In terms of amping, is there anything stopping me from using a mono sub amp and wiring the two doors in parallel instead of using a 2-ch? seems the best way to go about it...

 

That's how I plan on eventually doing mine. If you keep the X-over point low, bass is non-directional anyway.

 

Hi i was wandering how to get the sub out of the door? I removed the screws around the sub but it seems somthing is holding it in yet

thanks