Shaker 500 Archeology
6/6/05, 05:26 PM
#1
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OK, so I took off the door panel and pulled everything apart. Found some interesting info.
The lowdown on the Torx stuff -- t-30 for the panel, t-20 to get the door speaker basket out. The mid and tweet are held in with what looks like a t-15 and t-10 respectively but I only have the first two
Now, the bad news first. The mid drivers are in no way 5.25" -- it is a 4" component set. Gotcha, Crutchfield research! Looks like my MB Quart DSC213's are going back to tweeter unless I can find an adaptor bracket.
On the plus side, there seems to be almost 4" of mounting depth (3-7/8" or so) and exactly 4" magnet diameter space for the subs. I'm leery of the magnet spec, it was right on the money if not a little generous and even the slightest bit more will be too big, so I would be comfortable with a magnet under 4".
Who's done what with separates up front?
The lowdown on the Torx stuff -- t-30 for the panel, t-20 to get the door speaker basket out. The mid and tweet are held in with what looks like a t-15 and t-10 respectively but I only have the first two
Now, the bad news first. The mid drivers are in no way 5.25" -- it is a 4" component set. Gotcha, Crutchfield research! Looks like my MB Quart DSC213's are going back to tweeter unless I can find an adaptor bracket.
On the plus side, there seems to be almost 4" of mounting depth (3-7/8" or so) and exactly 4" magnet diameter space for the subs. I'm leery of the magnet spec, it was right on the money if not a little generous and even the slightest bit more will be too big, so I would be comfortable with a magnet under 4".
Who's done what with separates up front?
6/7/05, 03:15 PM
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Gracias amigo!!! You can get an adapter to hold a 5.25" component set in the 6x8 slot at Pep Boys, Circuit City, Tweeter, Best Buy, etc. Or, just make a small MDF baffle- it's very simple to do. BTW Crutchfield
6/8/05, 04:08 AM
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Yeah, crutchfield actually does say you need brackets AFTER they say you use factory brackets. there are actually two, a door bracket and speaker basket -- guess they meant the first one stays.
I'm kinda interested in DiYing some separates with these now though, since those brackets have nowhere to put the tweeters:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=299-488
the factory divers have 3 holes but i can get 2 to fit, I think.
I'm kinda interested in DiYing some separates with these now though, since those brackets have nowhere to put the tweeters:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=299-488
the factory divers have 3 holes but i can get 2 to fit, I think.
6/8/05, 04:53 PM
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6/11/05, 09:25 AM
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after more digging, a torx t-15 will remove the 4" driver and the t-10 for the tweeter. there IS a crossover inside!!! 4 caps, 2 coils...didn't get a chance to take it inside yet and scrutinize the layout, but I imagine it would be possible to change out the components if needed.
the woofer has no x-over, but twice now the stereo has come on and only the woofers are firing -- no mids, just thump. Boomy. I suppose I should get that fixed but for now it's a convenient bug
I ordered these from madisound: http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi...rt_id%%&pid=827 -- they *might* fit. EDIT: these are disco'd
I also have to figure out if the sub amp is bridgeable -- any ideas?
the woofer has no x-over, but twice now the stereo has come on and only the woofers are firing -- no mids, just thump. Boomy. I suppose I should get that fixed but for now it's a convenient bug
I ordered these from madisound: http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi...rt_id%%&pid=827 -- they *might* fit. EDIT: these are disco'd
I also have to figure out if the sub amp is bridgeable -- any ideas?
6/11/05, 12:12 PM
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Those Peerless CSX's are nice drivers, but they may want a bit more airspace. Try some Polyfill in the enclosure. The amps are likely NOT bridgeable. Matter of fact, I wouldn't even try asa I fear they would short to ground and be killed completely.
So, the tweets actually got a real crossover? That's pretty neat. Are there any component numbers on the caps/coils? If you can tell me, I'll figure up the slope and crossover point.
It's also good to know that the factory mounting plate can be used for my components. Maybe these old Soundstream Exact 4's will sound good (never hooked up). I'll bet some Morels would be sweet if you were using outboard amps.
So, the tweets actually got a real crossover? That's pretty neat. Are there any component numbers on the caps/coils? If you can tell me, I'll figure up the slope and crossover point.
It's also good to know that the factory mounting plate can be used for my components. Maybe these old Soundstream Exact 4's will sound good (never hooked up). I'll bet some Morels would be sweet if you were using outboard amps.
6/11/05, 04:52 PM
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Indeed. Looks like Seas and Vifa have some reasonable choices but it'll take me some time to narrow it down.
So, it's either a 2nd or 3rd order crossover...I remember a bigger cap with 330MFD, a 3.9MFD, and 6.0MFD, I think, and one other. I'm gonna throw 8khz out there but it's really a guess.
I ordered those vifa mids and these cheapo dayton tweets -- ought to be a fun experiment. Eventually might try an L-Pad but for now just want to see if different drivers really have better tonality.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=275-030
So far, this looks OK:
http://www.madisound.com/pdf/seas/h397.pdf
It will definitely fit, but it's an 8Ohm SVC. It does list a 91db spl, so it might be ok...
So, it's either a 2nd or 3rd order crossover...I remember a bigger cap with 330MFD, a 3.9MFD, and 6.0MFD, I think, and one other. I'm gonna throw 8khz out there but it's really a guess.
I ordered those vifa mids and these cheapo dayton tweets -- ought to be a fun experiment. Eventually might try an L-Pad but for now just want to see if different drivers really have better tonality.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=275-030
So far, this looks OK:
http://www.madisound.com/pdf/seas/h397.pdf
It will definitely fit, but it's an 8Ohm SVC. It does list a 91db spl, so it might be ok...
6/12/05, 06:37 AM
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Sorry to get off-topic here guys. But y'all seem to know what your talking about. Do any of you know the specs to the 500 HU? I want to replace mine with a CD/Casette unit, but I want to make sure its better than the stock HU. This is the unit I'm looking at so far, Kenwood DPX-MP4070. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Jeff
6/12/05, 08:20 AM
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Any head unit will be good if you like the features. Basically, the head is simply a source as there are outboard amplifiers and crossovers in this system. So, as long as that KW has the features and more importantly in this case, the look that you want- go for it. It will likely be a LOT more reliable than the OEM unit from what I've been reading, and it should have more flexibility in settings.
6/12/05, 02:25 PM
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I'm not 100% sure that the stock system has 2 amps, but I think it does. You want a HU with 2 sets of pre-outs, and what's nice is you won't get the "hidden EQ" the stock unit has. Let us know if the speakers distort more with the kenwood -- the secret EQ is likely to prevent that.
6/13/05, 01:44 PM
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I am aware, and was hoping the amp would be bridgeable, as I imagine it would sound cleaner that way. I will hopefully replace the sub amp asap though.
The fosgates I've seen require some melting or cutting, and I'm skeptical of Kicker since they seem to be very SPL-oriented. I think I could do better for the money.
Speaking of which, assuming the amp isn't bridgeable, what would I do with the extra wires? Resistor?
The fosgates I've seen require some melting or cutting, and I'm skeptical of Kicker since they seem to be very SPL-oriented. I think I could do better for the money.
Speaking of which, assuming the amp isn't bridgeable, what would I do with the extra wires? Resistor?
6/13/05, 02:43 PM
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Yep, and I'm still amassing data as to others that should be a direct drop-in. I have seen the MTX4500 plopped in, but haven't heard them. I think the CrossFire BB38 will go, Elemental 9kv2, CDT C8, Kicker Comp8v2, Massive Audio PW8, and a whole list of others that I don't have in front of me. Unfortunately, I won't be able to state as a fact until I either see it done, or my own car gets here for measurement.
6/13/05, 05:18 PM
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Well, I ended up ordering the Seas CA21RE's -- other than being 8Ohm they look great. The dimensions fit what I measured so I'm crossing my fingers. I'll let you know. Throw some specs out and I can tell you a ballpark yea or nay. I think about 100mm for magnet width, same or little more for depth, and about 215mm for overall diameter is about right.
As for my Seas drivers, I'll hook 'em up and cross my fingers, but will probably end up getting at least a new sub amp. Recommendations welcome; again, size is a factor. Not much space by the footwell but I'd rather not drill or run wires all over creation.
I don't know about the JL 8W0, but the 8W3 needed cutting according to RRRoamer's pics. Would be great if they made the W1v2 in an 8"
As for my Seas drivers, I'll hook 'em up and cross my fingers, but will probably end up getting at least a new sub amp. Recommendations welcome; again, size is a factor. Not much space by the footwell but I'd rather not drill or run wires all over creation.
I don't know about the JL 8W0, but the 8W3 needed cutting according to RRRoamer's pics. Would be great if they made the W1v2 in an 8"
6/13/05, 06:27 PM
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Originally posted by BatNastard@June 13, 2005, 7:21 PM
Would be great if they made the W1v2 in an 8"
Would be great if they made the W1v2 in an 8"
6/13/05, 08:42 PM
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ehhh....I am pretty sure the 8w0's fit. the mounting specs are nearly identical to the 8w3's.
yes, I would like to see an 8w1. But I think a 0 or 3 will be sweet.
yes, I would like to see an 8w1. But I think a 0 or 3 will be sweet.
6/14/05, 03:53 AM
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I was looking for the mounting specs for 8w0 but couldn't find the magnet diameter. The 8w3 required some enclosure cutting but fit otherwise: http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index.php?showtopic=20621 The nice part is that if the factory enclosure really is about .3 cubic feet they are a great match according to t/s parameters!