Has anyone replaced thier factory door / rear deck speakers?

I read on Crutchfield that the rear deck speakers are subwoofers. It says if you replace the speakers, they will only produce low tones when keeping the factory wiring. Is this true?
Crutchfield also says that the door subs will not work if you replace the factory head unit. (I undersatnd this issue is due to the external amplifiers)

I was planning on leaving the head unit / door subs and replacing the midrange speakers in the door / rear deck, and adding a subwoofer in the trunk (via speaker / RCA converter).

Anyone had any luck replacing speakers / adding a subwoofer and keeping the factory head unit?

 

I replaced the front door and rear deck with Kenwood eXcelon 6x8's.

Crutchfield states that the rear speakers only produce low tones, but they are wrong. It must be the factory speakers that don't reproduce mids and highs. I put in the Kenwoods and they put out a full range of sound.

I also added a Audiobohn 10" powered sub in the trunk. Everything works great and sounds really nice. I kept the factory Shaker 500 head unit because I wanted to 6 disc MP3 player.

For the rear deck speakers you will need a flexible "snake" screwdriver to get them out, very tight back there between the glass and rear deck.

 

Thanks...
I had a feelin' Crutchfield was wrong about the rear speakers being low tones only.

I will definitly be replacing my front and rear speakers.

Did you tap into one the rear speaker leads to wire the subwoofer?
Where did you connect your remote turn on for the amp?

 

I too replaced the door and deck speakers, head unit, and placed a sub in trunk. My stereo was the basic system, so it really needed some help.

Door and Deck Speakers Alpine SPS-570A
Head Unit Alpine CDA-9825
CD Changer Alpine CHA-s634
Sub in Ported Box MTX MXS1204 12"
Amp MTX MXA3002

 

I was able to tap the sub into the rear deck speakers for a signal.

The remote turn on wire I tapped into the passenger door fuse panel and hooked it into the windshield wiper fuse. Crutchfield told me how to take apart the center counsel and get the stereo out but the wires were wrapped really tight and I had no room to work with it.

 

Thanks for the info....I will try and do the same for the remote turn on.

One more question...

What route did you use to run the power wire from the battery?
Did you find a good grounding location in the trunk.

Just trying to gather up all the info before i start my install so i don't waste any time.

 

Power wire rout was a pain in the butt. The powered sub that I bought had a built in fuse box about 2 or 3 feet from the end of the wire. Because of this I was not able to run it through the rubber boot in the firewall under the dash.

I took off the interior trim pieces and ran it down the passenger side of the car. Once those pieces are off there is a rubber seal on the passenger door. I went under that piece and through the quarter panel and just made it to the battery. I was able to tuck the amps fuse box behind the kick panel by the fuse box.

As for the ground, jut pull the carpet back in the truck and there are tons of good places to use.

 

Ok, have a suggestion of the best place to ground? I'm getting that annoying hum and I have it grounded to the floor of the trunk. Should I go to a frame rail? Or the taillight?

 

I used the frame right behind the passenger side back seat and don't have any sound problems.

 

There's a bolt between and behind the rear seats that makes an excellent ground. If you're getting hum...
Run your audio leads on the opposite side of the car from the power leads [I ran 4-guage power lead, amp turn-on lead and even head unit ground down the passenger side. I ran head unit outputs to amps in rear down the driver side and front speaker leads from amps back up the driver side.] If possible, ground everything to the same point, even it seems redundant and uses more wire. No noise whatsoever!

 

And BTW, Crutchfield is wrong on this one. I replaced the rear decks with decent components and crossovers and, most definitely, the entire frequency range is there. It's just that the stock speakers stink (imagine that!).

 

I ended up grounding to the taillamp ground hidden under the plastic just to the right of the latch. My problem ended up being my remote lead. As I have the stock HU I didn't know what wire to tap into. So I took a volt meter and the unused automatic transmission harness and found the wire that had a 12v charge when the car was on, and 0v when it was off. Works like a charm now

 

So, could you be a little more specific? maybe even pix? Where was this wonderful wire you found?

 

I'll try to remember to take a pic tomorrow. But all you have to do is take the center console panel and you should see the wires going to the power source, e-brake, and then a harness just hanging there. I believe it was the light blue wire (top center I believe). From there I ran the line with the other wires up under the center stack along the firewall in front of the passenger and back next to my power wire. Volt meters are handy little tools

 

Here you go. The light blue with the yellow stripe.

 

Thanks!

 

No problem. I like it because it will only let the amp run with the key in the ON position. The stereo will stay on until you take the key out and open the door, but the amp won't.

 

I replaced my factory speakers with scosche EFX 5x7s powered by a scosche hyperdrive EFX 4 channel amp. I used the factory 8inch subs for now and their powered by a hyperdrive EFX 2 channel amp. Finnally I used the 12inch sub box by scosche powered by a hperdrive EFX mono amp, It's design especially for the 05 and it's a perfect fit on the passenger side in the trunk. I used the scosche wiring harness to hook everything up to the shaker 500 deck, it works just like it came from the factory stereo and amps stay on until you open the door after taking the key out that is. thanks to Scosche it sounds great! good luck on your install. and if you need any help , you can contact the tech line @ Scosche 1-800-621-3695 x3.

 

Let me get this correct.. if I branch off one of the rear speakers, I can run a wire to a sub from there... without having to get a new head unit or amp.. or am I wrong?

 

you still need an amp with speaker level inputs to drive your sub(s).