Replacing door subs...(Again!)
#1
Replacing door subs...(Again!)
I just have a quick question. Do the Polk/MOMO MM2084's fit in the doors? It is only 3/8 inch deeper than the RF Stage 2's . I am aware that some cutting is needed, but is it too deep to fit in the doors at all? (Yes, I will get a new amp (x2) as well)
The specs look stout for only an 8 inch sub.
Thanks
The specs look stout for only an 8 inch sub.
Thanks
#2
If you're willing to cut the back out of your enclosure, then yes, they'll fit. They're also nice little woofers. If you're going to hack, though, go with a Crystal CMP8 or an Ascendant Audio Assassin 8 or even a SoundSplinter RLi-8. Beastly little ****ers that will negate the need for any rear subs.
#4
Hey Infinity, there is a great deal going on until June 23rd for the Assassin 8....45 bucks each!! What is the frequency response I should expect from these?
What amplifier would you suggest for these 2 subs?
Thanks
What amplifier would you suggest for these 2 subs?
Thanks
#5
They'll take 450-500 RMS despit the ratings, so basically feed them whatever you can afford. Something like the Directed 750D would be in the sweet range for decent money. If you want to keep stereo separation , it'll take one hellacious stereo class A/B amplifier, or a decent size 4-channel bridged. Something like http://www.ubid.com/Kicker_KX650.4_650W_4_Channel_Car_Audio_Amplifier_ 04'_Series/a10700436-rsearchall.html
Be warned, that Kicker amp is HUGE.
Be warned, that Kicker amp is HUGE.
#8
Shelby GT350 Member
Join Date: June 4, 2006
Location: McAllen, TX
Posts: 2,244
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
now i did find 8" diameter sub with 3.75" mounting depth compared to the RF punch which is 4.06" depth and SoundSplinter's 5.60" depth...but will the 8" diameter fit and how much cutting would i need for the depth
#10
You have to do some trimming on the back side of the door panel (nothing a little fiberglass can't fix and you also need an aftermarket sub to make it hit harder. Which I do not have...
Originally Posted by knucklehead_11
I was looking into possibly buying those. Any issues with install?
#11
Originally Posted by knucklehead_11
I was looking into possibly buying those. Any issues with install?
#12
Originally Posted by #6Fan
You have to do some trimming on the back side of the door panel (nothing a little fiberglass can't fix and you also need an aftermarket sub to make it hit harder. Which I do not have...
#15
Okay...here are some more noob questions...
Alright, let's say I purchase a pair of 8" SVC 4-ohm subwoofers rated at 200W RMS.
If I want to put on a 2 ohm load, would I want 400 watts RMS x 1 at 2-ohms , with 200W RMS going to each speaker?
I guess what I am asking is, what is the best match for a pair of 8" SVC 4-ohm subs each rated at 200 watts RMS? (either RF S2 or MM2084)
Would this be the maximum RMS rating that it could handle?
Thanks
Alright, let's say I purchase a pair of 8" SVC 4-ohm subwoofers rated at 200W RMS.
If I want to put on a 2 ohm load, would I want 400 watts RMS x 1 at 2-ohms , with 200W RMS going to each speaker?
I guess what I am asking is, what is the best match for a pair of 8" SVC 4-ohm subs each rated at 200 watts RMS? (either RF S2 or MM2084)
Would this be the maximum RMS rating that it could handle?
Thanks
#16
Yep, the power would be fine (even more would probably be OK), just make sure you cross low (<150Hz). Also, you would probably need a class D amp, since most class A/B amps won't handle 2 ohms mono in bridge mode.