07gtcs

Well, I finally installed my front door kicker mid subs...they sound better than stock. Now, I need to upgrade the rear speakers.

Not sure what is the best fit back there. I would like to install a small boom box similar to the sub for the shaker 1000...I already have a quality amp for that. Just not sure what to use instead of the rear stock speakers...

PenguinGT

What size are the rear deck speakers anyhow?

07gtcs

I don't know. Smaller than 6x9s...I'm guessing 5x7s

2k7gtcs

It's the good old Ford sized 5x7 or 6x8 that Fords been using for the past 15+ years. I've had them in about every Ford I've owned since 1990. They are very common now.

PenguinGT

Well, that sucks... If there is enough mounting depth, it's probably worth it to upgrade to 6 1/2" components. Honestly, I haven't even begun to tear out the stereo and start from scratch.

07gtcs

Okay, so 5x7s it is. Eclipse offers that size...

On another note: When I insalled the mid subs in the front I noticed that the OEM subs had to inputs going into them. I couldn't figure out why, so I simply tied up both (+) and (-) together and installed the new subs. Also, on the Kickers, I noticed a hole in the back of the magnets. Not sure if this is for breathing or what. The OEM speakers had a bolt going through the back of the door panel bolting it to the magnets. Reason I'm asking is the fact that the OEM speakers seemed to have deeper base and shook the side mirros. Since the bolt was not to be installed with the kickers, I sealed the hole in the door panel....not sure if it should remain open for the kickers to breathe. Another thing I noticed is the fact that if you move the fader to the front right speaker...both front subs are active...if you move it to the front left...no subs are active.

07gtcs

From what you are saying, I can fit either 5x7 or 6x8. Is that right?

PenguinGT

If there were two different speaker leads on the factory speaker, then it was a dual voice coil subwoofer. With DVC setups, you have flexible wiring options, depending on what method of tying them together you use. You can take the ohm load from 4 to 2 ohms or up to 8 ohms, etc...

PenguinGT

Most of the speakers old in this size are essentially true 5X7s, with tabs that allow you to mount into a 6X8 opening. Very few 6X8 speakers even exist these days because of their limited market.

2k7gtcs

Correct. I should not have confused the situation.

07gtcs

Which set of wires is which? I tied them both together and I believe the Kickers are 4 ohms.

PenguinGT

It all depends on how they were wired originally. Were they wired in parallel or in series?

07gtcs

in Parallel

krnpimpsta

If you didn't replace your door sub amplifiers, then that's the reason you're getting less bass out of the kickers. The door sub amps are matched to the factory door subs. They're weak and can't power anything else very well.

PenguinGT

If they were wired in parallel, then the ohm load was halved.

So, if they were 4-ohm DVC subs, then the factory setup was running those puppies at 2 ohm, for a double in RMS power output. Changing to a SVC sub, you just lost 1/2 the power of the stock setup, which is why they don't hit as hard.

You should replace with DVC subs and wire the same as the factory setup. The other alternative is to ditch the factory amps and go with a more powerful amp (at 4-ohms per channel).

Does this make sense?

07gtcs

Yup, makes sense. One thing I dind't know was the fact that there were two types of subs. I'll have to look into a better amp. Where is the amp located for the front subs? I have a nice amp now, but I'm saving it for the trunk boom box.