How did you guys get the wire from the inside of the car to the inside of the door? On other cars I just follow the bundle of wires in the rubber tube that are already there. But in the Stang there seems to be some sort of plastic grommit where they enter the car that I can seem to get my wire through.

Any ideas?

Thanks

 

I don't have my Mustang yet so I can't really help, but why don't you use the existing wires? Are you using a smaller guage?

 

I just cut the connector off the stock wires and used them.

 

I just used the crutchfield wiring harnesses on the existing wires. I can see if you wanted to get a bigger gauge wire but I didn't bother to look when installing mine since I don't plan on amping the front/rears and only going to amp a subwoofer.

 

I am running a much larger gauge wire which is why I am running new ones. The stock ones are much to small to handle a lot of power.

 

I'm in the same boat. My car will be here this week sometime and I have my new JL Audio stuff ready to go in. I plan on running 12 gauge from my new amps to all the speakers. I'll be adding a how to on the website in my signature. I'll take lots of photos. If you figure it out before me I'm sure I'll be looking for some tips so post back. Glad to know I'm not alone.

Jon

 

Unless you're running 1000+ watts to your door speakers, 16 guage or even 18 will work with no loss. The wire companies would like you to believe you need 8 ag and such because they make more money on it. It is unnecessary, but it does look good.

 

OK, just finished battling this myself. Here is what I did.
In the door jam, remove the rubber boot that goes over the plate. Once that has been removed, there is a gray plastic plate there with all the wiring for the door going through it. I though that was one side of a plug, but it is not. There is a plug on the "car" side of the hole that snaps in to that plate. But the plate itself is not a plug. It is merely a holder for the actual plug. So I popped the gray plate out of the hole, and with a small flat blade screwdriver I lifted the clips that hold the plug to the plate. Once they were separated, you can then stick your speaker wiring through the plate. The plug does not have to be snapped in to the back side of that plate. Looks like it is more for tension relief than anything else. And really doesn't do much for that either because the wires hold themselves up.
Anyway, by doing that you have room to run your wires. Just snap the plate back in to place and put the boot back on once you get the wiring through the rubber tube that goes to the door.

 

Hey, Hawg. What size wires will fit, or what dimensions in inches will fit through the hole (so I know if the wire I plan to use will fit)? Thanks

 

Once you get the plate to pop loose and remove the plug from it, you have quite a bit of room. I used 12g speaker wire pairs, 2 runs, and had plenty of room to spare.

If you pry out on the plate a little, you will see the two tabs ( one on top, on on bottom ) that hold it in. You can take a thin flat blade screw driver and push the tab down while pushing on the interior side and get the plate to push out. I found it to be MUCH easier to fold the glove box all the way down and reach through there instead of trying to reach up from the bottom of the dash.

I will say that it is a bit of a female dog to get the rubber cover back over the plate. And the plug that snaps in to the plate from the interior side does help secure the plate in the hole. But the plate will stay in without it ( or at least mine does ).

I know this is all hard to visualize but once you look at it, it will all make sense. I have only done one side so far, and will be busy tomorrow and about half of Sunday. But when I get the chance to do the other side I will try to take a couple of pictures ( providing there is enough space for the pictures to make sense ).

The Infinity Kappa's fell right in to place in the doors. The MTX subs even fit with very slight modification. BUT none of the screw holes would line up. Had to drill new screw holes in the ring in the door panel where it mounts. So I am a little concerned that over time they will end up rattling loose. If so that is going to present a bit of a problem that I am not quite sure how to fix. Guess I will cross that bridge when the time comes. And of course I had to fabricate my own speaker grills for the subs also. Nothing about it has been simple :angry:
The two amps I bought ( Kicker KX650.4s ) just BARELY fit on the rear seat backs. And when I say barely, I mean BARELY. No way the end covers will ever fit back on the amps. Still haven't figured out where to mount the cap either. Goal is to not turn the trunk into a glove box. I also put a pair of Kappa's in the rear deck, and am pulling out the skipper1000 subs in the trunk and replacing it with a Scosche box that is made to fit in it's place, with a 600w 12" that will be running mono.
Hopefully it will all turn out OK, I just got to find the time to get it finished.

 

Hawg, if you want to get rid of the factory 1000 enclosure, PM me and I'll "help". There are a few things I would like to accomplish using one of those, but I cannot see paying Ford 1000+ to do it.

 

This is some good info I got the base system so I will be running new wire as well.

 

Did anyone find the color codes for the FRONT speakers? I think I got my +/- backwards.

 

I never actually looked for the color code for the fronts. I know what it is for the rears, but that isn't going to help you much.

You can actually tell if you have the polarity reversed by watching the speaker movement.