P51Driver

Does the vert have hidden bolts? I removed the door lock bezel, mirror sail panel, the torx screw behind the handle and all seven 7mm hex bolts around the door. But I still can't pull the panel back at the rear. The front of the door panel comes up and off, but the middle to the rear does not budge. Any ideas?

89Trooper

No hidden bolts. I removed the torx screw behind the handle, 1 hex bolt toward the front of the door, 2 hex bolts on the rear of the door, and the mirror sail panel.

Like you said, the front of the door by the sail panel is easier. You have to lift a little and the rear of the door should pop up and over the channel. Then you can just lift the channel up and out without having to slide it all the way out toward the rear.

I then popped the door back over the metal that the channel slides over so it would be in it's normal position while I installed the moleskin.

I tinted my own windows and left the channel out so I wouldn't have to fight the channel during tinting. I left the windows up for 2 days, then put them down, pulled the panel back over the metal edge, dropped in the channel with the moleskin installed, and then lifted the door panel back over the channel (this is also hard).

P51Driver

As Homer Simpson would say "Doh!" I forgot about the torx behind the handle. Thanks 89Trooper.

SteelTownStang

Hey Bill, aside from the glue breaking down on the velcro, how well did the velcro hold up as far as preventing scratches on the tint? Thanks

TacoBill

The velcro worked fine as far as preventing scratches went, its just the glue that failed.

As a side note, my window tinter has switched over to Moleskin.

SteelTownStang

Thanks. The tint will probably be my next mod as soon as the weather breaks here in the northeast. I still have a roll of velcro sitting on the work bench as the tint was going to be one of my first mods... but kept getting pushed back. I hate for it to go to waste. We don't have the temps like you guys have so hopefully it'll hold up better. I've found that 3M adhesive promoter adds additional strenght as well. I'll definitely be using your "how to" write-up. Thanks again

TacoBill

Here's the problem, the seperation occurs between the glue AND the velcro felt. Using the 3M promoter is futile as the glue sticks plenty good to the wiper channel.

My advice, get the Moleskin kit, and use the velcro for other stuff around the house.

The Moleskin uses a 3M type adhesive tape instead of that gooey glue.

SteelTownStang

Once again... good advice. I'll get the moleskin

06GT

ARGH, I tried to do this install yesterday, but for some reason it is around 35* here in AZ...

My fingers hurt badly after 1/2-way prying the door panel up (everything hurts twice as bad when it's cold), so after 2 attempts I was finished for the day...I'll re-attempt when it gets into the 50-60* range again.

TacoBill

My fingers hurt too, and it was probably around 75 degrees at the time.

Just muscle it and the panel will pop up.

mikes rx

Just a installation note: When I installed my moleskin, I cut the door pieces length wise right down the middle (used 0.5" instead of 0.6" of material). The difference in width seems inconsequential, becuase the window did not seem to touch far enough down on the channel to warrant the extra 0.1" of material.

While 0.1" may not seem like it matters, it does with regard to left over material: I was able to keep a lot of extra, just in case something happens to what I applied.

I have only had my tint for 2 weeks, but so far so good. Maybe TacoBill can respond as to this being really stupid and a terrible idea, or being really smart.

TacoBill

Mike- Sounds like a great idea to me!

Nothing wrong with keeping the extra strips of Moleskin around for 'just in case' situations.

Only reason why I chose 0.6" was to maximize the flat coverage area on the wiper even though it (entire width) may never contact the tint.

Thanks for the input, Mike.

rrobello

holly crap that was one heck of a write up, also very extensive on actually installing it, I just peel and stick after making sure its been cut to fit right....lol

rmays06

Bill, great write up! It guided me through the whole thing. I don't think your video or write up shows how hard this damb channel is to get up. Man what a pain in the neck. It worked and I got the tint done. Hopefully it stays working. I used only .5 instead of .6 and I'll be the test mule for that program I guess.
Thanks again bill you must be really strong cause you made it look easy.
RON

mikes rx

I think I'm the test mule for the 1/2" instead of 0.6" No problems with mine so far, knock wood.

rmays06

Good to hear! I'm not big on the test mule thing, keep me informed!

GPStang06

Bill, awsome as always. I will absolutley have to do this. I have those annoying streaks on my tint as well.

TacoBill

Thanks guys for the kudos!

Ron: Yes, lifting the door panel up over the top of the frame does take some muscle, my finger tips were red! Guess that's the result of taking the '3 screw' shortcut instead of taking apart most of the door like the manual says.


I used a little Goo Gone on the tint to get the glue residue off. Seemed not to harm the film, but you may want to try a small test spot first.

G.T

TacoBill: i had ordered and installed my AutoMoleSkin long before you've posted this thread, and i remember the instructions sheet that came along with it was merely the door trip removal instructions straight from the workshop manual, with a little more instructions and photos.

however, a friend ordered his last week, and came to me to install them for him.
i was surprised to see the new instruction manual is actually a copy of your page!
they've used most of your photos, with a few additional ones for convertible owners.. but for the most part.. it's your guide!

i wonder if you knew

TacoBill

Yup!

James (from AutoMoleskin) asked for permission, of course I said, "Yes!".