Looking for lost info about shaker door subs
Looks like the forums were reorganized or something, I can't find the thread where someone replaced the door subs with JL's. I wanted to know a few basics, A) how to get them out and B) what are the dimensions exactly?
I'm looking at the 8" Morel woofers on partsexpress, and while I've had success using home audio drivers in a car before, I've found that the home sizes are often different than the car sizes. If they don't fit, the MTX T4508 looks ike it should fit without cutting, and it's a "car" 8in.
Thanks!
Morel
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=297-040
MTX
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=297-040
I'm looking at the 8" Morel woofers on partsexpress, and while I've had success using home audio drivers in a car before, I've found that the home sizes are often different than the car sizes. If they don't fit, the MTX T4508 looks ike it should fit without cutting, and it's a "car" 8in.
Thanks!
Morel
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=297-040
MTX
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=297-040
I'm pretty sure you are talking about one of these 2 threads:
How to Replace Factory Subs with JL Audio
My new system....
How to Replace Factory Subs with JL Audio
My new system....
That's the one, thanks! Looks like the factory subs are reasonably deep, but narrow. I imagine I can find replacements easily enough.
While I'm at it, does anyone want to confirm the layout? HU into a 4-channel amp for the speakers and a 2-channel for the door subs...the front speakers are 5 1/4" components mounted in a 5X7" bracket, with some kind of passive crossover (or just a cap on the tweeter), right?
I'm off to search...thanks again!
While I'm at it, does anyone want to confirm the layout? HU into a 4-channel amp for the speakers and a 2-channel for the door subs...the front speakers are 5 1/4" components mounted in a 5X7" bracket, with some kind of passive crossover (or just a cap on the tweeter), right?
I'm off to search...thanks again!
I've been compiling a list of speakers that I think will work without modification in the factory enclosures. Here's what I have so far:
DEI STudio 3084
Lanzar Neo 8
Kicker SSMB 8
Earthquake SWS 8
CDT EF 8
and the ones I will personally use are the Illusion Audio Im 8's or the ND 8i
The Morel woofer would work OK, but it will require a LOT of power, and the frame may be too large (outer diameter). I will update this list as I find other options.
DEI STudio 3084
Lanzar Neo 8
Kicker SSMB 8
Earthquake SWS 8
CDT EF 8
and the ones I will personally use are the Illusion Audio Im 8's or the ND 8i
The Morel woofer would work OK, but it will require a LOT of power, and the frame may be too large (outer diameter). I will update this list as I find other options.
Cool, thanks! Those illusions look great, where can you buy them?
I'm looking around at some DEI stuff -- apparently very nice for the price.
I agree about the Morels, especially the size. The CDTs look good but a low Qts -- do you know the factory enclosure volume?
Also looking at the Image Dynamics ID 8D4 and the Rockford Punch Stage 1 or 2 (low sensitivity on the last ones though).
I'm looking around at some DEI stuff -- apparently very nice for the price.
I agree about the Morels, especially the size. The CDTs look good but a low Qts -- do you know the factory enclosure volume?
Also looking at the Image Dynamics ID 8D4 and the Rockford Punch Stage 1 or 2 (low sensitivity on the last ones though).
Sounds about right. There seem to be a lot of choices in the .2-.5 range for drivers.
Right now I like both the ID and the CDT...any recommendations? Seems like the CDT would have better volume until I replace the amps, but I don't really know their products and I bet the ID would be better in the long run.
Right now I like both the ID and the CDT...any recommendations? Seems like the CDT would have better volume until I replace the amps, but I don't really know their products and I bet the ID would be better in the long run.
Originally posted by Infinity@May 21, 2005, 6:31 PM
I like both drivers. I would lean towards ID, just because....well, I would. I just like ID speakers for some odd reason.
I like both drivers. I would lean towards ID, just because....well, I would. I just like ID speakers for some odd reason.
Some of the "exotic" cone materials have a plasticky sound to them also. Not all, but some of the cheaply done drivers. I don't have the money to test a dozen or so drivers just to determine that I hate the tonality of all of them. Go with the ID's, and I'm hoping to get some of the crazy ones when my car shows.
Originally posted by onebadgsx@May 22, 2005, 10:56 AM
i am using the MTX 4500 series, no modification needed and the sound real good. lots fo bass and real tight.
i am using the MTX 4500 series, no modification needed and the sound real good. lots fo bass and real tight.
I'll add that one to my list of "for sures" then. Thanks for the info.
Originally posted by onebadgsx@May 22, 2005, 9:56 AM
i am using the MTX 4500 series, no modification needed and the sound real good. lots fo bass and real tight.
i am using the MTX 4500 series, no modification needed and the sound real good. lots fo bass and real tight.
Looks like the new v.3 from image dynamics won't fit -- much deeper than the v.2.
Originally posted by Infinity@May 22, 2005, 5:11 PM
http://www.edesignaudio.com/Products/9Kv2S..._dimensions.jpe
http://www.edesignaudio.com/Products/9Kv2S..._dimensions.jpe
Another contender from dayton, again with the depth issue though...otherwise looks pretty nice:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=295-545
PE also has this Pyramid jobbie on the ghetto end of things:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=290-272
I had surprisingly good results with a Pyramid W64 midbass pair in a car. I'm tempted by the cheapo since my budget is minimal due to a little one on the way.
I also have an extremely low SAF with a warrantied car. I saw your posts on caraudioforum.com -- looks like you're in a similar boat?
I'm starting to wonder about spacer rings or just building my own enclosure -- sounds like there's room.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=295-545
PE also has this Pyramid jobbie on the ghetto end of things:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=290-272
I had surprisingly good results with a Pyramid W64 midbass pair in a car. I'm tempted by the cheapo since my budget is minimal due to a little one on the way.
I also have an extremely low SAF with a warrantied car. I saw your posts on caraudioforum.com -- looks like you're in a similar boat?
I'm starting to wonder about spacer rings or just building my own enclosure -- sounds like there's room.
The Daytons are nice subs- no doubt. Yes, I'm in a similar boat as you with what to do with this car. Unfortunately, I don't yet have one. The Elemental 9kv2 IS similar to the ID v2 since Image is doing the actual build of the speaker for elemental- but they don't sound even close. ID is building them to Ben's specs. IDK if it will fit, but the price is right on them. Congrats on the new pony lover.
Sorry you have to wait for your car. Thx for the congrats -- all of this audio stuff is, of course, so I can get the best fidelity out of Raffi 
in your sig it says you're making custom enclosures -- got a plan yet?

in your sig it says you're making custom enclosures -- got a plan yet?
I want to do 2-4 more 8's under the rear deck, but it may not work. I don't have an exact way to measure other than the 2 decent looks I've had, and a few pics. I may just glass a single 12" into the rear corner, kinda like the Scoshe box, but mine would be ported. I think a Dayton Titanic would fit real nice, and the enclosure would be removable for track duty.
Originally posted by Infinity@May 28, 2005, 8:15 AM
I want to do 2-4 more 8's under the rear deck, but it may not work. I don't have an exact way to measure other than the 2 decent looks I've had, and a few pics. I may just glass a single 12" into the rear corner, kinda like the Scoshe box, but mine would be ported. I think a Dayton Titanic would fit real nice, and the enclosure would be removable for track duty.
I want to do 2-4 more 8's under the rear deck, but it may not work. I don't have an exact way to measure other than the 2 decent looks I've had, and a few pics. I may just glass a single 12" into the rear corner, kinda like the Scoshe box, but mine would be ported. I think a Dayton Titanic would fit real nice, and the enclosure would be removable for track duty.
Sounds like a cool plan
I just realized that RRRoamer used the JL 8w3, not the 8w0 as I previously thought. There's a difference in size, the w3 is over 4" deep and almost fit depth-wise. I think the 4" dayton would fit. I imagine the ID might be a little better, but it might not. Still, the bang/buck ratio on the dayton is sweet.
Yesterday I tried removing the sub; I got the ring off and screws out no problem but something is holding it in there and I'm afraid to force it. onebadqsx, are you still here? how did you get yours out?
EDIT: found that info here: http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index.php?sh...783&hl=door+sub -- of course as soon as I posted my dumb question. Problem is, I'd rather not take the panel off before I get new subs, so I want to be sure about the measurement...*sigh*



