I'm definitely interested in this.
Sure beats catching a glimpse of the passenger in the corner of my eye and wondering why I'm chauffering a Hobbit around.

 

Sooo ...

Just wondering if anyone has done this to let us know if it works?

I am ready to buy the parts right now, but don't want to waste the money if it is not feasible.

 

BUMP!

And I do mean BUMP!

 

I don't think he is interested in helping us...

 

I'm sure if KC says he is working on it - he's working on it.

-Deric

 

Yah you know KC has so much stuff going on at once you wouldnt believe it. So dont worry if he says hes looking into it, he is! We are just finished up working on a factory satellite kit, and now that I have figured out all the bugs he will be offering that kit! He runs a parts dept, all online business etc. But his service is second to none. Great guy. So if you need anything immediate I suggest calling him and see if hes got anything figured out or shoot him an email. I am sure hell be happy to answer any of your questions.

 

I am realy interested in this and ready to buy parts, sooo ....


BUMP!

 

I have gotten the wiring diagram for teh passenger power seat. It is striaght forward.

Power comes from the bussed electrical center fuse #15. It is a 30amp fuse, and is located right beside the fuse for the driver power seat (fuse #16). It looks like the pins are there to accept this fuse. It is grounded at the location 10-5 which is the same place teh heated seat will be grounded. I just don't know where that is yet.

For those looking for a short cut, I would think that you could simply tap into the driver's side for power - just make sure you don't use both seats at the same time.

The only question for me is whether the mounting brackets for the power motor assembly is the same as the manual. Does anyone know?

 

Ok

I am being told by my dealer here that the power motor and track should fit fine onto the existing seat. Unless anyone here has any news to the contrary (and it seems that no one else is looking at this right now) I'm going to go ahead and do this in January or spring.
I'll keep you posted as to how it turned out.

 

That would be nice! Let us know... the sound of chirping crickets is deafening!

Also, prices, part number, pix... anything would help!

 

I have been given a price of $575 for all the parts shipped to me in Alberta, Canada - a price I am very happy to pay as it is half as much as buying it here.

KC has told me that he is planning on posting a step by step conversion when he has time.

I will post the wiring diagrams when I have access to a scanner.

Cheers

 

I too would like this upgrade. Hopefully KC will come through with step by step. Also, I hope the issue with the side airbag is addressed in this upgrade.

 

I posted this before, but it didn't come up - so if it comes up twice, I'm sorry...

The part numbers mrkabc gave at the beginning are correct except for the switch.

The switch number is: 5f9z-14a701-aa

Cheers

 

I just completed power seat track upgrade. My wife is much happier with the Mustang now. The amount of lift is significant. It was well worth the money and effort. The cost is going to be about $500 for everything. This is a pretty straightforward install but there is a lot of cutting and splicing of wires. I took some pictures, but I guess my camera is bad because they came out blurry. You will see how they came out below. Again, I apologize for the picture quality.

The part numbers listed are all correct including the new switch part number. Note: The switch does not come with a ****. We are still sorting out the correct part number for the ****. It is NOT 1L2Z-14711-AA, which is listed in the parts catalog. The ***** for the driver and passenger seats are the same. I’ll post the new number once I get it.

Note: Be very careful of the airbags. The procedure for powering off the airbags is posted on this site. My car has side airbags. This is not much of a problem since the airbag circuit is separate from the rest of the seat connectors.

BTW. The power seat track weighs 20.5 pounds and the manual seat weighs 12 pounds if you are worried about such things.

My requirement was to impact the car as little as possible. That way I could go back to stock if needed. The only place I modified the car harness was to splice into the driver side power seat connections. There is constant 12V on the drive side. If you look at the plug for the driver seat, there are only 2 14-gauge wires. The black one is ground of course and the other is your 12V source.

I made a harness for the power and ground wires to run from the driver’s seat to the passenger seat. I used 14-guage wire (one red, one black) with a male/female connector on the passenger seat end that I picked up at Radio Shack. I wrapped the wires in electrical tape and then routed them next to the harness in the car from the passenger side to the driver side seat. I spliced and soldered the connections and used heat shrink tubing over the connections.

Now for the main harness modifications:

I removed the connections for the seat heaters. It’s the two connectors with the black and white wires.

The seat belt sensor connector on the new harness will not work with the plug on the seatbelt so I cut it off and soldered on the connector from the old harness. You can barely make this out in the pictures. The new connector is white. The old connector is black. The wires are the same color so it is very easy. Use heat shrink tubing on the connections.

For the main seat connector, I used the old harness connector spliced and soldered to the new harness. The wires are all the same color so it’s easy to match them up. The one exception is there are two black with blue stripe wires. One goes to the seat belt sensor and the other goes to the OCS (occupant classification sensor). Just keep track of which one goes where with an ohm meter and you will be in good shape.
There is one change you need to make to the cushion side shield. There is a snap on the old one that needs to be moved to the new shield that holds the switch. I measured and drilled a hole and then pop-riveted the snap back in.

Also, you need to cut the side of the seat, behind the shield to make room for the switch. The picture is blurry but maybe you can get the idea. I used the shield as a template for where to cut. This will all be hidden once the shield goes back in place.

The last picture is the finished product. The silver deal under the seat is an amp for the subwoofer in the trunk.

Ron

 

Ron,

Thanks for the write up!

I will probably try to get it wired to its own fuse, as in the wiring diagrams.

As soon as you can, that switch part number would be appreciated!

Cheers

 

Thanks Dan!

I am Glad someone took the Plunge on this and we are getting Some Progress. Being a Dealer I can not Reccomend Short Cut Style Installs because of Liability. The Seat Has Airbag Sensors etc. and would open Myself and The Dealership to Lawsuits if Something does not Function as OE. If I told you to Wire in your Seat to the Drivers Side and it Fried your Wiring who would be to blame??? Now If a Member Posts on this and you Decide to Take the Risks I can Sell You Service Parts to use as you will. I was Hoping to Come up with a Cleaner Install But That does Take Time which is in Short Supply on My end. And it May not end up being cost effective.I can Sell you the Components Needed at a Discount but Realize I am not Selling a Plug and Play Kit that is tried and True. Remember the IUP Cluster Upgrade. I did Not Post on that untill I had done the Mod to my own car and was sure it was not going to Fry Anything. Turns Out I could not even Sell the Clusters Myself due to odometer laws but I was happy to provide the Info and make a lot of Stangers happy. Believe me I am Here to Help but on Certain Things I need to be Real Sure there is no Chance of Vehicle Damage Possable. It would be irresponsible on my part. My Posts are pretty much taken as gospel here on TMS so I need to be Sure before I post. Please Understand My Position.

Thanks!

KC

 

Please See Post 36

 

Good point about the separate fuse for power. The driver’s seat is protected with a 30amp fuse and given everything is wired with 14-guage wire, I thought I had plenty of capacity. Do you think I’m overloading the circuit? It would be great to see the wiring diagram for the 2007 power passenger seat. I’m certainly open to a cleaner solution if one is out there.

Thanks,

Ron

 

KC, thanks for the update. We know you are going to get at this, so no worries.

Ron,

The diagram is pretty simple. The fuse for the passenger side is supposed to be a 30 amp fuse (Those wierd square fuses) and is to be located in slot 15 in the fuse box. That's right beside the one for the driver's seat. I'm not sure what would be involved in making that spot functional - I see that there is one pin in the slot (There should be two) so it is not set up to work. From there it goes straight to the switch.

 

Talked to KC on the phone yesterday, he tells me he is working on it! Would love to do this upgrade once it gets sorted out. Great writeup Ron! How is it working out for you?

I'm watching this thread closely.