Insert panel above backseat armrest in coupe
3/19/07, 02:38 PM
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Insert panel above backseat armrest in coupe
I've got part of my interior out while installing my silverhorse flush mount louvers and the plain grey panels look so boring ! I have the grey leather interior with the 05 interior upgrade package. I think the door panels look great with the black leather inserts .I was wondering if anyone has tried to cover the outlined panel above the rear armrests with a similar black leather/vinyl insert ? I think it would pick up the appearance of these otherwise dull panels. Also would anyone know where to get the matching black material ? Thanks for any help, suggestions or information.
3/19/07, 03:15 PM
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Talked with an upholstery shop....the material can be ordered, but he felt it would be a very difficult, if not impossible task to do because of the wide gaps......ie:no place to attach around the edges, and the welting many have insatalled in the front doors is too narrow for the rear area.
3/20/07, 01:34 PM
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yah it actually looked pretty bad from what I remember. If you find the right person it can probably be done, but maybe just pick up a spare set if there not too much and have someone work on it and get it perfect before doing the originals. But I think it will be hard to do right.
3/20/07, 08:43 PM
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yeah man look for a junkyard with a stang that had a front end crash and ask if you can have the inside panels, maybe you will get them for cheap and find a shop that can do it, if they do a good job install the ones you bought, if not then you know they did not mess with the ones you already have in the car
3/21/07, 11:13 AM
#6
Team Mustang Source
Yeah that was me 
And yeah, it was "OK" at the very best. It's really not that difficult, however I would definitely recommend taking the panels out of the car so you can work on them on a bench and move them around when it comes time to cut the material after the adhesive has set. I left them in place which in retrospect wasn't a very good idea at all. Now that I see just how easy it is to dismantle the back seat and side panels, I'll be re-doing the project the right way soon 
Karnutt, if you don't have the info already, here you go:
V2819 w/aberdeen vinyl - this is the red vinyl that Ford uses on the door panels for cars with the ICAP. The dark charcoal is a different V number, but the aberdeen indicates the diamond shaped perforations.
Rock on
And yeah, it was "OK" at the very best. It's really not that difficult, however I would definitely recommend taking the panels out of the car so you can work on them on a bench and move them around when it comes time to cut the material after the adhesive has set. I left them in place which in retrospect wasn't a very good idea at all. Now that I see just how easy it is to dismantle the back seat and side panels, I'll be re-doing the project the right way soon Karnutt, if you don't have the info already, here you go:
V2819 w/aberdeen vinyl - this is the red vinyl that Ford uses on the door panels for cars with the ICAP. The dark charcoal is a different V number, but the aberdeen indicates the diamond shaped perforations.
Rock on
3/21/07, 06:06 PM
#7
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Yeah that was me And yeah, it was "OK" at the very best. It's really not that difficult, however I would definitely recommend taking the panels out of the car so you can work on them on a bench and move them around when it comes time to cut the material after the adhesive has set. I left them in place which in retrospect wasn't a very good idea at all. Now that I see just how easy it is to dismantle the back seat and side panels, I'll be re-doing the project the right way soon
Karnutt, if you don't have the info already, here you go:
V2819 w/aberdeen vinyl - this is the red vinyl that Ford uses on the door panels for cars with the ICAP. The dark charcoal is a different V number, but the aberdeen indicates the diamond shaped perforations.
Rock on
And yeah, it was "OK" at the very best. It's really not that difficult, however I would definitely recommend taking the panels out of the car so you can work on them on a bench and move them around when it comes time to cut the material after the adhesive has set. I left them in place which in retrospect wasn't a very good idea at all. Now that I see just how easy it is to dismantle the back seat and side panels, I'll be re-doing the project the right way soon Karnutt, if you don't have the info already, here you go:
V2819 w/aberdeen vinyl - this is the red vinyl that Ford uses on the door panels for cars with the ICAP. The dark charcoal is a different V number, but the aberdeen indicates the diamond shaped perforations.
Rock on
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showth...ht=door+insert
3/22/07, 07:49 AM
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Hey Dave ,thanks for the information . If ,I may ask ,who did you order the aberdeen material from and what did it cost? After all the negative responses concerning the project,even from upholstery shops in my area, I'd like to know the cost and possible success rate before I commit to it.Thanks ,again for the info.
3/22/07, 09:08 AM
#9
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Hey Dave ,thanks for the information . If ,I may ask ,who did you order the aberdeen material from and what did it cost? After all the negative responses concerning the project,even from upholstery shops in my area, I'd like to know the cost and possible success rate before I commit to it.Thanks ,again for the info.
I got it from a local upholstery place here in Tampa that does high end work. He special ordered it for me from a book he had. His book didn't actually have the crimson swatch, but it did have the dark charcoal. The spot for the crimson swatch had a part number so that's what he ordered. The book showed "aberdeen" as the type of material, then the various colors below it with the corresponding part numbers for each color variation. I can't recall the name of the place or their site right now, but will check when I get home if I have the info anywhere and drop you a PM. I got a yard of it, which is actually 39" square if memory serves, for around $60 (there was a shipping charge). My original thread (linked above) mentions the steps he recommended, but I removed the pics a while back because the result just wasn't worthy of being shown on the net
Looking back on doing it, and something I'll be more aware of next time, is make dern sure the surface is prepped properly before you lay that material down. You want it to stick and you only want to do it once
5/27/07, 02:49 PM
#11
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Long post - Finally did it right
Since this was a long weekend, and with Super Stangfest in Daytona rapidly approaching, I decided to take advantage of the 3-day weekend and remove the panels from the rear interior and do the job right the right way: on the work bench. It takes less than 5 minutes to remove the panels and lower rear seat - a few of those plastic push pins and some slight maneuvering and they're out. No need to remove the upper panel (the one that surrounds the quarter window and has the upper seat belt mount). This can be done with the panels in the car, but I would absolutely recommend against doing that. With the panel on a bench you have the lighting you need, the visibility you need, and the maneuverability you need to get the vinyl in place and make the proper cuts once the adhesive it set. Let me also add that if you're a perfectionist or squeamish with the very strong possibility of messing up a major piece of the interior of your car, either skip this project or take it to a professional. As an amateur you will not be able to make this perfect by any means, but it will be much better than "good enough" if you take your time. The things I learned, when comparing it to the first time I did it with the panels in the car, is take your time and don't rush the prep work, the laying of the vinyl, the cutting of the excess and having the proper tools (mainly a flat blade screw driver and an X-Acto knife with a new blade).
So bare with me once more, and here's what you'll need to complete the job:
1. The vinyl material, mentioned in a previous post in this thread
2. A can of 3M 8088 vinyl adhesive
3. An X-Acto knife with a new blade
4. Flat blade screw driver
5. Spline tool (can be purchase at Lowes/Home Depot for a few bucks)
6. 220 or 180 grit sandpaper
7. Goo gone
I'm no Taco Bill, but here goes my attempt at a photo essay for doing this
Once you have the panel out and on the bench, lightly sand the recessed area with the sandpaper to rough up the surface and give it some tooth so the adhesive will stick. Blow off the dust from the sanding. Then wipe down the recessed area (where the vinyl will go) and the groove around it with rubbing alcohol a few times - this will remove any interior dressing, oils, dust, etc. I used duct tape to mask off the perimeter of the area, and the outer-most edge of the groove. Take your time doing this - you want the adhesive to go into the groove, but not both "walls" of it. Look at your front door panels and you'll see what I mean.
Once you have the duct tape in place, lay your vinyl down to get a rough idea of how large a piece you'll need. I'd recommend cutting it at least 2" larger than the area you need, then use the spline tool to actually push it into the groove - this will effectively mark the rear of the vinyl so you'll know where to spray your adhesive without overdoing it.
OK, remove the vinyl and lay it aside - get ready to spray the adhesive on your panel. The spray nozzle will have 3 different size patterns, I used the medium one. Spray away, being sure to obviously cover the recessed area and the groove - don't color outside of the lines! Make sure the entire area is covered in a good coat (without overdoing it) of the adhesive. Now do the same thing to the back of the vinyl, going as little as possible outside of the line from when you pressed it into the groove. It won't hurt if you go too much over the line, but it will make setting the piece a bit more difficult as it will stick to the duct tape.
Now the fun starts, and this is the first of 3 moments of truth. Walk away. Go have a quick sandwich, guzzle a beer, slam a can of Coke, take a poop. Do what ever you have to do to not touch anything for at least 5 minutes. You have to let the adhesive "tack". This means not rushing and thinking you've waited long enough when in fact it was only 30 seconds. You'll know when it's ready when you can touch it with your finger and it's sticky, but doesn't stretch away with your finger like mozzarella cheese on a piece of pizza. Once you're sure it's properly tacked, get ready for moment of truth #2 - laying the vinyl down. Take a deep breath and count to 5, then lay it down, making sure you have it positioned as closely as possible when you initially made the dry run. You can pull it up if you're too far off base, but this stuff does set pretty quick. Focus on smoothing the vinyl to the contours of the recessed area first, making sure it sits flat. Then use the spline tool to force the vinyl into the groove. Go ahead and lean on it as hard as you can, you won't hurt it. The key here is to use the part of the vinyl that's sticking up (the extra) and push that into the groove. It's hard to describe but basically you don't want to stretch the material that's already laid flat, use the slack. Use the flat blade screwdriver to get into the areas that the spline tool won't go. You might have to do this several times before the vinyl sticks to the adhesive in the groove. It will work, but I think it's finicky due to not being able to properly sand in the groove. Don't freak out if it looks like the vinyl isn't going to stick in the groove. Keep working it. Once you have it in as good as you can get it, and verify again that the flat area is smooth and follows the contour, walk away again Go watch TV for 30 minutes. Then come back and push it into the groove again. You might notice that it seems to stick better. Work it into the groove a few times with the spline tool and the screwdriver. Walk away again for 30min, then come back and do it again. In fact, I laid the first piece down yesterday morning around 830am, worked it into the grooves as well as I could, then left for the day around 930 am. I came home 8hrs later and pushed it into the groove with the tools, smoothed out a wrinkle in the flat area and it stuck. Now you see why I said to take your time and not rush this. Yes the adhesive sets up quick from what I've seen, but once you have it in place and are pushing it into the groove that's where patience comes in.
OK so now we're ready for moment of truth #3 - cutting. This requires a steady hand and being able to keep an eye on your blade with regard to its position on the vinyl within the groove. Look again at your door panel - that's how you want your cut to be. As I said earlier, this won't be perfect, but if you're using the welting in your doors like I am, the welt will mask small errors in the cutting process. If you're not using the welting, then Godspeed my friend you're a braver soul than I am!
OK - cut away! Cut along the inside of the groove, at the bottom of the groove where the inside vertical "wall" meets it. It's easy to see what I mean when you're looking at it. Once you've removed about 8" of it, completely remove that piece and start again until you have all of the excess cut away. Now it's time to carefully and slowly remove the duct tape. Be extra careful doing this - if any of the tape is stuck to your vinyl it will pull it up. Keep an eye on it as you pull it up and have your knife ready to cut if there are any areas that didn't cut cleanly. Use the Goo-Gone on a rag to remove the tape's residue. This stuff seemed to slightly discolor my panel, the black part not the red. Some Vinylex dressing took care of that and it's fine now. If you don't use welting, you're done and can move on to the next panel. If you use the welting like me, I laid down a small bead of clear silicone adhesive in the groove to hold the welt in place. The groove around the recess isn't as uniform as the groove in the front door, and the welt won't stay in place as easily and needs some help.
Is it perfect? Nope. Is it 200% better than the first time I did it? Definitely yes. I'm very happy with it now.
So bare with me once more, and here's what you'll need to complete the job:
1. The vinyl material, mentioned in a previous post in this thread
2. A can of 3M 8088 vinyl adhesive
3. An X-Acto knife with a new blade
4. Flat blade screw driver
5. Spline tool (can be purchase at Lowes/Home Depot for a few bucks)
6. 220 or 180 grit sandpaper
7. Goo gone
I'm no Taco Bill
, but here goes my attempt at a photo essay for doing thisOnce you have the panel out and on the bench, lightly sand the recessed area with the sandpaper to rough up the surface and give it some tooth so the adhesive will stick. Blow off the dust from the sanding. Then wipe down the recessed area (where the vinyl will go) and the groove around it with rubbing alcohol a few times - this will remove any interior dressing, oils, dust, etc. I used duct tape to mask off the perimeter of the area, and the outer-most edge of the groove. Take your time doing this - you want the adhesive to go into the groove, but not both "walls" of it. Look at your front door panels and you'll see what I mean.
Once you have the duct tape in place, lay your vinyl down to get a rough idea of how large a piece you'll need. I'd recommend cutting it at least 2" larger than the area you need, then use the spline tool to actually push it into the groove - this will effectively mark the rear of the vinyl so you'll know where to spray your adhesive without overdoing it.
OK, remove the vinyl and lay it aside - get ready to spray the adhesive on your panel. The spray nozzle will have 3 different size patterns, I used the medium one. Spray away, being sure to obviously cover the recessed area and the groove - don't color outside of the lines!
Make sure the entire area is covered in a good coat (without overdoing it) of the adhesive. Now do the same thing to the back of the vinyl, going as little as possible outside of the line from when you pressed it into the groove. It won't hurt if you go too much over the line, but it will make setting the piece a bit more difficult as it will stick to the duct tape. Now the fun starts, and this is the first of 3 moments of truth. Walk away. Go have a quick sandwich, guzzle a beer, slam a can of Coke, take a poop. Do what ever you have to do to not touch anything for at least 5 minutes. You have to let the adhesive "tack". This means not rushing and thinking you've waited long enough when in fact it was only 30 seconds. You'll know when it's ready when you can touch it with your finger and it's sticky, but doesn't stretch away with your finger like mozzarella cheese on a piece of pizza. Once you're sure it's properly tacked, get ready for moment of truth #2 - laying the vinyl down. Take a deep breath and count to 5, then lay it down, making sure you have it positioned as closely as possible when you initially made the dry run. You can pull it up if you're too far off base, but this stuff does set pretty quick. Focus on smoothing the vinyl to the contours of the recessed area first, making sure it sits flat. Then use the spline tool to force the vinyl into the groove. Go ahead and lean on it as hard as you can, you won't hurt it. The key here is to use the part of the vinyl that's sticking up (the extra) and push that into the groove. It's hard to describe but basically you don't want to stretch the material that's already laid flat, use the slack. Use the flat blade screwdriver to get into the areas that the spline tool won't go. You might have to do this several times before the vinyl sticks to the adhesive in the groove. It will work, but I think it's finicky due to not being able to properly sand in the groove. Don't freak out if it looks like the vinyl isn't going to stick in the groove. Keep working it. Once you have it in as good as you can get it, and verify again that the flat area is smooth and follows the contour, walk away again
Go watch TV for 30 minutes. Then come back and push it into the groove again. You might notice that it seems to stick better. Work it into the groove a few times with the spline tool and the screwdriver. Walk away again for 30min, then come back and do it again. In fact, I laid the first piece down yesterday morning around 830am, worked it into the grooves as well as I could, then left for the day around 930 am. I came home 8hrs later and pushed it into the groove with the tools, smoothed out a wrinkle in the flat area and it stuck. Now you see why I said to take your time and not rush this. Yes the adhesive sets up quick from what I've seen, but once you have it in place and are pushing it into the groove that's where patience comes in. OK so now we're ready for moment of truth #3 - cutting. This requires a steady hand and being able to keep an eye on your blade with regard to its position on the vinyl within the groove. Look again at your door panel - that's how you want your cut to be. As I said earlier, this won't be perfect, but if you're using the welting in your doors like I am, the welt will mask small errors in the cutting process. If you're not using the welting, then Godspeed my friend you're a braver soul than I am!
OK - cut away! Cut along the inside of the groove, at the bottom of the groove where the inside vertical "wall" meets it. It's easy to see what I mean when you're looking at it. Once you've removed about 8" of it, completely remove that piece and start again until you have all of the excess cut away. Now it's time to carefully and slowly remove the duct tape. Be extra careful doing this - if any of the tape is stuck to your vinyl it will pull it up. Keep an eye on it as you pull it up and have your knife ready to cut if there are any areas that didn't cut cleanly. Use the Goo-Gone on a rag to remove the tape's residue. This stuff seemed to slightly discolor my panel, the black part not the red. Some Vinylex dressing took care of that and it's fine now. If you don't use welting, you're done and can move on to the next panel. If you use the welting like me, I laid down a small bead of clear silicone adhesive in the groove to hold the welt in place. The groove around the recess isn't as uniform as the groove in the front door, and the welt won't stay in place as easily and needs some help.
Is it perfect? Nope. Is it 200% better than the first time I did it? Definitely yes. I'm very happy with it now.
5/27/07, 08:33 PM
#13
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Looks good. Can you post some pics of the panel inside the car. If you could please take a pic looking in through the driver/passenger window. Reason being that's how most people will see it at a car show.
5/28/07, 01:24 PM
#14
Team Mustang Source
). It's hard to get the flash to not blaze what ever's right in front of the camera. I'll post a pic in the daylight outside later, if not today then one day this week. I just finished putting everything back together.
5/28/07, 03:07 PM
#15
A great source for the interior fabrics on 05+ Mustangs...If you don't find your color under your year look to the previous year. And you can call them and they will send swatch samples if needed this is the OEM material and is exact match.
http://www.miamicorp.com/
http://www.miamicorp.com/
5/28/07, 03:16 PM
#16
Team Mustang Source
A great source for the interior fabrics on 05+ Mustangs...If you don't find your color under your year look to the previous year. And you can call them and they will send swatch samples if needed this is the OEM material and is exact match.
http://www.miamicorp.com/
http://www.miamicorp.com/
Here's the crimson red for the ICAP http://www.miamicorp.com/default.aspx?page=item%20detail&itemcode=DV2819
Charcoal black
http://www.miamicorp.com/default.asp...itemcode=L7485
http://www.miamicorp.com/default.asp...temcode=DV5410
Camel
http://www.miamicorp.com/default.asp...itemcode=L7486
http://www.miamicorp.com/default.asp...temcode=DV7720
Dove
http://www.miamicorp.com/default.asp...itemcode=L7487
http://www.miamicorp.com/default.asp...temcode=DV6665
5/30/07, 10:03 AM
#19
Team Mustang Source
