Anybody know the easy way to remove the area around radio, I really don't feel like breaking it. Help please!!!!

 

I dont have any pics, but I'll try. First open the compartment on the center console. Remove the 2 phillips screws on the top by the hinge. Apply the parking brake a high as it will go without gettin' crazy!! Pull up the console from the back after pulling the side pieces of the console away from the lower part of the console. There are clips there that hold the console tight. Maneuver the console around the parking brake handle and put it aside. You then have to remove the 2 side pieces on each side of the radio and controls. This is done by simply prying them forward CAREFULLY!!! There are clips that hold them in place. Once you do that, you will reveal the screws that hold the radio in. Remember to disconnect the heater and AC plugs at the bottom.

I hope I remembered everything!! Just go slow, and take the time to make sure you don't scratch anything and you'll be OK.

Hope this helps!!

Kevin

 

Thanks Axslynger!!

 

Try this

 

and this

 

and finally this

 

thanks very much for posting this. It helped me change out my radio!
It is easier than I thought.

 

Thanks fellas...it was really easy!!!

 

Bump, if these were pics can we get a rehost/repost?

 

My thanks to Kevin and Todd for populating this thread!!

My GT came with the standard cd&radio headunit. I recently found a good deal on a Shaker 500 on eBay - a take off for an aftermarket piece. So today I followed the directions above and successfully removed the old and installed the Shaker.

It was about a 2 hour project taking my time and being careful along the way. Here's a couple notes about the job.

You don't have to remove the floor console base, just take off the finish panel. That gives access to the center stack wings which then give access to the center panel. I suggest the use of a small towel to cover the shifter while removing the center panel and headunit - to protect that piece from getting scratched.

The pdf that shows the center finish panel coming off is not complete. The heat and ac controls are mounted to the center panel so you have to reach around the center stack side supports to get to the plugs for those controls, one on each side. Here are two pics that may better explain the situation:

[attachmentid=18004] [attachmentid=18005]

Here are the two headunits side by side:

[attachmentid=18006]

Now here's everything put back in and about to be tested.

[attachmentid=18008]

Results were very satisfactory. Everything still works!! Sound output even with stock speakers is noticeably better than that of the plain unit and I can now handle 6 cds and Mp3s. A very worthwhile project!!

 

Are there any openings behind the face of the stock unit?

 

The plastic face of the headunit is retained with 4 Torx screws (2 each top and bottom). When you remove them, all you see are the back of the face plate which is a circuit board and the front of the main box. Here's a pic to illustrate.

[attachmentid=18169]

Incidentally, the main box contains a circuit board on the bottom and a cd drive at the top and a lot of air in between. On the Shaker, I suspect that open space is taken up with the cd changer. The Shaker weighs about 3 times as much as the stock unit too.

Hope this helps, Chris

 

How did you disconnect the plug on the passenger side? I can't seem to pop it loose.

Thanks for the info on the faceplate

Edit: Does anyone know if there's a good way to hook up a remote turn-on wire to the stock HU? I got my sub to work off speaker-line inputs but when i take the key out of the ignition i get a loud hum from the woofer. Suggestions? :scratch:

 

How did you disconnect the plug on the passenger side? I can't seem to pop it loose.

Thanks for the info on the faceplate

Edit: Does anyone know if there's a good way to hook up a remote turn-on wire to the stock HU? I got my sub to work off speaker-line inputs but when i take the key out of the ignition i get a loud hum from the woofer. Suggestions? :scratch:
[/b][/quote]
That plug is a sneaky one! If you back up to my original post and open the pic that shows the guts of the center stack, you'll see the black plug that you're referring to in the lower right corner of the stack.

Now notice the little grey bracket that goes up the side of the plug toward the wiring harness. That bracket curves around the back of the connector and goes back down the other side. That u-shaped piece is the connector catch. If you can see it from behind the stack support you'll notice that yours is vertical and up from the position you see in the pic. To disconnect you have to rotate that grey bracket 90 degrees down and forward toward the wiring harness. When you get it rotated, the connector plug can then be simply pulled out.

To reconnect that one you simply push the connector plug in and the grey bracket automatically swings up vertical and locks the plug in.

Good luck!!

 

Thanks that one was a pain. They certainly don't give you much room to work in there.

 

My new JVC Arsenal KD-AR860 should be here day after tomorrow.... thanks for all the info, guys! eace:

 

Hey guys im new around here. Just a questing I just purchased a 2005 mustang v6 and I wanted the shaker 500. My dealer is telling me I cant get one as they are now ordering for 2006 which means I wouldnt get my car till sept. I'm left with the base stero and still want the shaker. Going through the service department they told me just to switch head units is over $1000 bcs they need to change the wiring in the trunk. Since Im only interested in switching head units does that make any sence, what wiring would you have to touch in the trunk there is no subs there.

 

Chris, I have a quick question for you. Did you attempt to connect an amp or subs to your Shaker 500? I know it is very expensive to add the door subs afterwards.

 

Nope. I simply switched out the headunits and left everything else at stock level. So no amps and using base stock speakers. As I said sound is better even with the stock speakers. Later, I may consider swapping speakers but that would be all. I'm no audiophile and I did this chiefly to get the 6 CD capability. The net cost wasn't too bad either!

 

I believe what they are referring to is installing the subwoofer box in the trunk for a Shaker 1000. If you're happy with the stock no amp/speaker scheme like I am, just purchase a Shaker 500 off the shelf and install it yourself like I and the others have done or get the local sound shop to do it. As we've found it's about 2-3 hours of easy work but staying careful not to damage anything. All the instructions you need are found from the various posts right here on this thread. I actually bought my Shaker 500 from an ad here on TMS and then sold my stock headunit on eBay later.