05-09 Interior and Audio Mods Enhancing Your Mustang's Interior and Sound System

Headunit replacement!

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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 12:16 PM
  #1  
swirlee's Avatar
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Very soon I will be installing either one of these two headunits into my Shaker 500 equiped stang.

Alpine IVA-D300
Alpine IVA-D310

I plan on installing it myself to save money and I am pretty confident I can get the job done with the help of a buddy of mine. Now as far as I can tell there are two bumps in the road I know I am going to hit based on research I have been doing. First of, both units will switch off once the car is put into drive which is no good, so I have to install THIS as well to bypass the "video off for your safety" bull. I am not sure how difficult something like this is to integrate with either of those headunits but supposively its not bad. Now for the worse news. I talked to some Crutfield guys over the phone and they were very quick to point ou that as soon as you remove the factory headunit the stock subs in the doors will be disabled as well as the subs in the trunk if you have the Shaker 1000. So basically by removing the factory headunit, you are guaranteed to render your factory subs as well as the AMP useless. Now I have seen a few posts from people who have already replaced their factory unit and was just curious as to what process you or whoever installed the unit had to go through to get all the factory speakers to intigrate with your new headunit? Also where did you buy the wiring harness as well as the installation kit?


So lets recap:

1.) Anybody know how difficult installing a headunit such as the ones linked above would be? If not those in particular, any headunit.

2.) Has anyone ever integrated one of these (PAC TR-7) or ones like it into their setup regardless of what type of vehicle you have? Was it hard?

3.) Does in fact the subs get disabled as soon as you replaced the headunit? If so what did you do to get around this issue. i.e. wiring them back up somehow or powering them with an aftermarket amp.

4.) What harness and installation kit did you use? Got pics of your setups?

5.) If a tree falls over in a forest with no one around to hear it, does it actually make a sound?

Thanks alot guys. I hope you can all help me out on this one.

-sWIRLEE
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 01:20 PM
  #2  
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This is why I got the basic, 4-speaker, stereo. In all honesty, I think it would have been more cost effective to install a full system.

As for the subs becomming virtually useless, you need to find out what wires go where. There's no real easy way to do that. I wish I had more answers for you, but that's why I took the 4-speaker setup.
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 02:06 PM
  #3  
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Yeah.... same here, I ordered the standard 4 speaker stereo because I knew I am going to be changing everything.

To get the door subs working, you just need an amp (and probably new subs for the doors, I don't know the OHMs or watts of the factory ones) that you can hook up to the sub outs on your headunit, then get the wires from the amp to the subs in the door.
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 03:13 PM
  #4  
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factory door subs are something like 40w rms and 1.5ohm (aka piece of junk)
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 03:39 PM
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Don't get me wrong guys. In time evertyhing will be replaced. I agree with you about the 4 speaker setup. Its just when I was ordering my dad talked me into getting the 500 since I plan on keeping this car a LONG time and should I ever want to return it to its stock state I would have a little better stereo. Kinda silly but I understood what he was saying. So other than the door subs not working, any more answers to my questions?
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 03:43 PM
  #6  
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I don't believe there is a way to run the door subs with an aftermarket set up UNLESS you do something like I am doing

Alpine HU (same one you are thinking of)
4 chann amp - powering 5.25" components up front and 5.25" speakers in the rear deck.

mono sub - powering the door subs, which will be aftermarket JL 8w3v2's

mono sub - powering single 12" in the trunk

(btw...the two mono subs will be daisy chained together, so that I am using only one pre-out).

You are going to want to run aftermarket amps and speakers.
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 04:20 PM
  #7  
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my setup is going to be as follows:

Alpine headunit

2 Alpine Type-R 10''

Alpine 5 channel amp - MRV-F450 LINK

Either all Alpine Mids and Highs or all MB Quart Mids and Highs- still deciding

Amp should be enough to power all speakers including subs.
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 04:28 PM
  #8  
SurfnSoCal's Avatar
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so you aren't going to be using the door subs?

lol, sounds like we are going to have the same set up. I am doing all Alpine amps and HU, and MB Quart Premium components with JL subs in the door and trunk.
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 04:32 PM
  #9  
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we'll race to see who gets their systems setup first.... i cant wait to pop in lord of the rings trilogy on a road trip!!!
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 04:54 AM
  #10  
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Originally posted by swirlee@April 1, 2005, 5:35 PM
we'll race to see who gets their systems setup first.... i cant wait to pop in lord of the rings trilogy on a road trip!!!
How thick is the jl's 8 inch? also why not go with ( one 4 channel amp , front side will power the 5x7's, rear side will power the 8 inch subs ). ( one two channel amp to power the back 5x7's). ( and one mono amp to power the sub box in the trunk)
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Old Apr 3, 2005 | 09:58 PM
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If they're the same size as the 8w0's, you'll have to modify the door enclosure to allow for a larger magnet.
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Old Apr 4, 2005 | 12:03 AM
  #12  
SurfnSoCal's Avatar
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They are the same size, but RMS higher.

And James, if you do it that way....you would be a 4 preout head unit. If you run two mono subs daisy chained...thats one pre out.
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Old Apr 4, 2005 | 07:06 PM
  #13  
flamin ponyexpress's Avatar
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Originally posted by SurfnSoCal@April 4, 2005, 12:06 AM
They are the same size, but RMS higher.

And James, if you do it that way....you would be a 4 preout head unit. If you run two mono subs daisy chained...thats one pre out.
The factory subs are dual voice coil , and their rated @ 60 watt rms x 2 at 1.5 ohms. had them out today.
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Old Apr 4, 2005 | 07:25 PM
  #14  
flamin ponyexpress's Avatar
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Originally posted by swirlee@April 1, 2005, 1:19 PM
Very soon I will be installing either one of these two headunits into my Shaker 500 equiped stang.

Alpine IVA-D300
Alpine IVA-D310

I plan on installing it myself to save money and I am pretty confident I can get the job done with the help of a buddy of mine. Now as far as I can tell there are two bumps in the road I know I am going to hit based on research I have been doing. First of, both units will switch off once the car is put into drive which is no good, so I have to install THIS as well to bypass the "video off for your safety" bull. I am not sure how difficult something like this is to integrate with either of those headunits but supposively its not bad. Now for the worse news. I talked to some Crutfield guys over the phone and they were very quick to point ou that as soon as you remove the factory headunit the stock subs in the doors will be disabled as well as the subs in the trunk if you have the Shaker 1000. So basically by removing the factory headunit, you are guaranteed to render your factory subs as well as the AMP useless. Now I have seen a few posts from people who have already replaced their factory unit and was just curious as to what process you or whoever installed the unit had to go through to get all the factory speakers to intigrate with your new headunit? Also where did you buy the wiring harness as well as the installation kit?


So lets recap:

1.) Anybody know how difficult installing a headunit such as the ones linked above would be? If not those in particular, any headunit.

2.) Has anyone ever integrated one of these (PAC TR-7) or ones like it into their setup regardless of what type of vehicle you have? Was it hard?

3.) Does in fact the subs get disabled as soon as you replaced the headunit? If so what did you do to get around this issue. i.e. wiring them back up somehow or powering them with an aftermarket amp.

4.) What harness and installation kit did you use? Got pics of your setups?

5.) If a tree falls over in a forest with no one around to hear it, does it actually make a sound?

Thanks alot guys. I hope you can all help me out on this one.

-sWIRLEE
Contact Scosche @ 1-800-363-4490 they have the harness you will need. as for the wires and amps to the factory subs is located behind the kick panel on the driverside. the amps are very small, look for the cooling vents, you can't miss them. you can disconect the speaker wires to the amps and tap on the wires to run to the aftermarket amps. I will know about thursday how it will work. I will have my system in around then. Good luck! again contact the techs @ Scosche they're very helpfull.
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Old Apr 4, 2005 | 09:35 PM
  #15  
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Thanks for the info. I had same questions.
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Old Apr 4, 2005 | 10:41 PM
  #16  
vc4life's Avatar
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to get the screen to work just ground that E break wire


and if anyone cares my system containes

head unit = panasonic 7500u indash touch screen dvd with navi
all the highs = cerwin vega
subs = 2 kicker L5 12's
sub amp = kicker 1200.1
high amp = kicker 900.4

it sounds pretty good
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 12:16 AM
  #17  
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if you install one of these dvd systems,do you have to upgrade your speakers also.ive been saving for the kenwood double din.i think that one would look perfect in the stang and wanna save some money so im not going with the navi.do i have to upgrade my speakers to run the new head unit or is my standard 4 speaker set up good enough.if you really need to upgrade what are some decent inexpensive speakers to go with.thanks
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 09:43 PM
  #18  
vc4life's Avatar
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if your not going to run an amp on the facotry speakers then they will work fine with that kenwood

let me know how much you are buying it for cause i can get it whole sale, PM me if you want me to give you my price on it
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