Door speaker replacements for Shaker 1000
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Door speaker replacements for Shaker 1000
I have a 2009 with Shaker 1000 audio system. Any recommendations for replacements for my door speakers? My local audio place said nothing they had would fit. Very shallow speakers, apparently. My driver's side speaker is kaput. Thanks!
Tms Mustang Member ------ The Customizer!
Joined: February 5, 2014
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From: Canada
Check out the Crutchfield website. It will give you some information and ideas what fits.
I have the shaker 500 and replaced mine with Infinity speakers. Going to replace the rears with infinity Kappas.
I have the shaker 500 and replaced mine with Infinity speakers. Going to replace the rears with infinity Kappas.
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Joined: February 2, 2004
Posts: 7,648
Likes: 675
From: Insane
Yep, those are some strange subwoofers. 
8" shallow depth dual voice coil 1.2 ohm(!!!)x2 60Wx2 subwoofers are not exactly plentiful except in Fords, I suppose. 
You wonder why they do that kind of thing? I mean, sure, packaging is an issue, of course, but honestly, it'd be just fantastic if they'd use off the shelf type, sized stuff. 1.2 ohm speakers... why... Yay mass manufacturing, making it hard to upgrade certain things...
And the thing is if you get a speaker that fits, it's not the correct ohms. It'll probably handle the watts, but the things will be 2 or 4 ohms which is not... well, there's potential issues, both with sound and with the amps to run them in the car.
Then the Shaker head units and the remote amp situation... or changing out the amps for something to run the new speakers...
Just a mess, these systems, I swear. Ford....GAH.
/Not the only thing those smilies are good for for Ford, let's be honest.
//Oh, hey, lookie there... Welcome to the forum!
8" shallow depth dual voice coil 1.2 ohm(!!!)x2 60Wx2 subwoofers are not exactly plentiful except in Fords, I suppose. You wonder why they do that kind of thing? I mean, sure, packaging is an issue, of course, but honestly, it'd be just fantastic if they'd use off the shelf type, sized stuff. 1.2 ohm speakers... why... Yay mass manufacturing, making it hard to upgrade certain things...
And the thing is if you get a speaker that fits, it's not the correct ohms. It'll probably handle the watts, but the things will be 2 or 4 ohms which is not... well, there's potential issues, both with sound and with the amps to run them in the car.
Then the Shaker head units and the remote amp situation... or changing out the amps for something to run the new speakers...
Just a mess, these systems, I swear. Ford....GAH.
/Not the only thing those smilies are good for for Ford, let's be honest.
//Oh, hey, lookie there... Welcome to the forum!
Legacy TMS Member
Joined: February 2, 2004
Posts: 7,648
Likes: 675
From: Insane
Yeah. Kinda. It's complicated. I don't wanna say that, of course, being as I have the same speakers. And I'm talking about the door speakers. Shaker 1000 subs in the back you can just toss and MAKE a good box and amp, probably, rather than find those silly things. 
The number of 1.2 Ohm dual voice coil subwoofers out there is... well, zero. Nobody does that. Except OEM. Why, I'm sure it's one of those penny saving things.
But to also make them 3.5" mount depth, AND have them bolt in from the center backside? That's just weird. But there they go. And then to have a really weird narrow spider to mount in the cavity, and getting a 'normal' sub will mean that you have to space or cut stuff, and/or have interference with the window/regulator... And then to have one amp per speaker, while nifty, is just another bit of an oddity.
It's not just the electrics, it's the physicality of them as well. They're a complete *mess*, really, when you get down to it. Nasty design decisions all the way around for replacement options.
You can find them on ebay, or go to a junk yard and get a couple. As long as the coils are good, then they can be reconed. If the coils aren't good, they may can be recoiled. As long as you have the original spider (frame), magnet and coil driver, and enough of the material or a 'good enough' one to go by, they can be rebuilt. Which is really what will wind up being the thing to do.
Using the wrong ohm speaker (4 or 8 is common, but subs do go to 2 ohms frequently enough) will cause the amps to blow out. Another can of worms there. You can't add resistors or speakers or double up (series) or divide (parallel) the voice coils or the circuits in any way that'll work well or get to the correct ohms and 'fix' the problem. You're introducing complexity and lesser quality, if not both, for no good gain.
And then adding the amp, as I said above, is a problem because you have to put in some sort of box to fix the inputs, or get input off the door/package speaker wires themselves, which apparently aren't filtered for bass, so that's nice. It's not the best, some would say, but... you're not trying to go down that road anyway.
Original subs are 150 a pop, unless you find a deal, and many are much more, like 300, so far as I've seen in looking. All the replacements are in name only as they're either the wrong ohms, require mods, or just don't fit but they're 8" so they 'work'... aren't dual coil, aren't 1.2 ohm (or even 2 ohms, which is still double the resistance and not good)... the list is stupid, unfortunately.
Check this out: https://www.car-part.com/
You can go there and input 2005 Mustang and look for them in your area. Maybe find a couple that have the speakers and get them. You can maybe also go direct to some salvage yards websites. LKQ has this ability, for example. Maybe you find one or two that are good to go and get them. You'd have to actually put your hands on it, but that's an option.
This is one of the (siphons with great amount of negative pressure)-y things that Ford has always done with their cars: put *weird* speakers and radios in them. As if somehow that's going to make them a few bucks more or get us to buy OEM only... which I might, IF THEY SOLD THEM and it wasn't about the price of an entirely new setup in parts... nearly... depending... and I'm the labor... which I don't mind... but others might... ellipsis thoughts are fun... join me?...
Anyway. Not that you're totally out of options, but you are limited in what's right and good for your stock setup and the door panels, that's truth. So... maybe yes. Depends on you now.
Hope that helps. Even though I kinda think maybe it's not as helpful as I'd like it to be...
The number of 1.2 Ohm dual voice coil subwoofers out there is... well, zero. Nobody does that. Except OEM. Why, I'm sure it's one of those penny saving things.
But to also make them 3.5" mount depth, AND have them bolt in from the center backside? That's just weird. But there they go. And then to have a really weird narrow spider to mount in the cavity, and getting a 'normal' sub will mean that you have to space or cut stuff, and/or have interference with the window/regulator... And then to have one amp per speaker, while nifty, is just another bit of an oddity.
It's not just the electrics, it's the physicality of them as well. They're a complete *mess*, really, when you get down to it. Nasty design decisions all the way around for replacement options.
You can find them on ebay, or go to a junk yard and get a couple. As long as the coils are good, then they can be reconed. If the coils aren't good, they may can be recoiled. As long as you have the original spider (frame), magnet and coil driver, and enough of the material or a 'good enough' one to go by, they can be rebuilt. Which is really what will wind up being the thing to do.
Using the wrong ohm speaker (4 or 8 is common, but subs do go to 2 ohms frequently enough) will cause the amps to blow out. Another can of worms there. You can't add resistors or speakers or double up (series) or divide (parallel) the voice coils or the circuits in any way that'll work well or get to the correct ohms and 'fix' the problem. You're introducing complexity and lesser quality, if not both, for no good gain.
And then adding the amp, as I said above, is a problem because you have to put in some sort of box to fix the inputs, or get input off the door/package speaker wires themselves, which apparently aren't filtered for bass, so that's nice. It's not the best, some would say, but... you're not trying to go down that road anyway.
Original subs are 150 a pop, unless you find a deal, and many are much more, like 300, so far as I've seen in looking. All the replacements are in name only as they're either the wrong ohms, require mods, or just don't fit but they're 8" so they 'work'... aren't dual coil, aren't 1.2 ohm (or even 2 ohms, which is still double the resistance and not good)... the list is stupid, unfortunately.
Check this out: https://www.car-part.com/
You can go there and input 2005 Mustang and look for them in your area. Maybe find a couple that have the speakers and get them. You can maybe also go direct to some salvage yards websites. LKQ has this ability, for example. Maybe you find one or two that are good to go and get them. You'd have to actually put your hands on it, but that's an option.
This is one of the (siphons with great amount of negative pressure)-y things that Ford has always done with their cars: put *weird* speakers and radios in them. As if somehow that's going to make them a few bucks more or get us to buy OEM only... which I might, IF THEY SOLD THEM and it wasn't about the price of an entirely new setup in parts... nearly... depending... and I'm the labor... which I don't mind... but others might... ellipsis thoughts are fun... join me?...
Anyway. Not that you're totally out of options, but you are limited in what's right and good for your stock setup and the door panels, that's truth. So... maybe yes. Depends on you now.
Hope that helps. Even though I kinda think maybe it's not as helpful as I'd like it to be...
Last edited by houtex; May 16, 2020 at 04:26 PM.
Legacy TMS Member
Joined: February 2, 2004
Posts: 7,648
Likes: 675
From: Insane
Woofers. Speakers are 6x8s, and can be rather easily found, and aren't a problem to swap. I've got some pioneers in there to replace the messed up old OEMs, and they work fine. Better than fine, actually, more bright in the upper range... painfully so if you're not careful. 4 ohms. Not an issue. Even got the pigtail adapters to not cut my harness. I don't like cutting harnesses if I can avoid it. They are the square adapters, not the round ones, those are earlier Ford models, apparently, just so y'all know. 
/Haven't had to do the subs in the doors yet, thank goodness.
//I still have rattles. I really need to chase that left door rattle down and glue whatever's doin' that. It's not the speaker.
///The deck speakers same size as 'normal' door ones, but step one is 'take rear interior apart', step two is 'good luck getting those screws out/in'.
/Haven't had to do the subs in the doors yet, thank goodness.
//I still have rattles. I really need to chase that left door rattle down and glue whatever's doin' that. It's not the speaker.
///The deck speakers same size as 'normal' door ones, but step one is 'take rear interior apart', step two is 'good luck getting those screws out/in'.
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