Pitch Black

Everyone knows how ford says their shaker 500 is NOT upgradeable to the Shaker 1000. We'll they are quite a few differences, but with the grace of god and a dad who knows how it is very possible... will post specs later... REPLY if your interested in the steps & diagrams of how to do so.

theedge67

Interested! Please elaborate

metroplex

Are the head units different w/ a more powerful amplifier in the Shaker 1000? The non-shaker head unit is supposed to be a 160W unit. The rear speakers are stamped "25W" so I'm assuming the front speakers are about 55W each. That leaves 170W per subwoofer in the door (with its own amplifiers). I assumed the Shaker 1000's extra "500W" was the result of the trunk mounted subwoofers.

Pitch Black

We'll I found a the SHaker Sub & Amps @ a junk yard for $200 so i was happy bought them ran to ford to see if they had a wiring harness and their response was the Shaker 500 is not UPGRADEABLE to the Shaker 1000.
Ok I know i'm cocky they told me that in my interview and wouldn't settle for their short remark.

So here is what you will need...Please do not follow this guide to install the shaker 1000 contact me if you are truely interested for a very detailed walk through.
**Rough Estimate**
Shaker 1000 Sub
Shaker 1000 Amp & Screws
Shaker 500 System Currently Installed -MUST!
You'll need some wire Shield Wire
Wire to ground and run the power
Speaker Wire
Tool of course - Wire Cutter, Crimper, Screw Driver, Socket Set
& The Sketmatic of your 2005 Mustang

1. Study the Diagrams & Understand where each wire is running and what color those wires are and if they are spliced

2. Remove the rear seat, door sill and passenger side panel in the floor.
Run the wire from the rear of the where you'll be plugging in the amps... we followed the other wires running to the rear parcel speakers and wire tired them together.

3. We cut off the female connector for the shaker amps from the wrecked stang and sortered the wires together.. taped them together and run the ground and done. with the connector.

4. Bolting in the amps, if you have a rubber like peice on the steel set the amps in place bolt the top one down and then you should be able to take a small screwdriver and drive it through the hole... if you crawl under your car you'll see a spot for both screws. same with the subs after you connect them ot the amps & plug in the female connector.

5. once you haev the wire run to the front you can put your seat back in.

6. Follow your skematic to remove the radio unplg the radio and follow your skemtatic please pay close attention to the wires you hooked up in the back.
.... Please Continue Reading Below ....

Pitch Black

7. You need to go ahead and sorter what wires you know is possible by following the sketmatic, you should only be able to hookup to teh first connector by splicing in to the wire which is color coded.

Okay here is where i'm going to stop with the steps... b/c here it is dangerous and very complicated...
if you have a chance get the shaker 1000 head unit along with cutting all the connectors and splicing the wires into them instead of doing my way...

Ford did not install the pins in the slots we need so we took the radio apart and ran wries from the circut board to the wires instead of going through the connector after you have the radio connected to the subs & amps you need to run two wires to the fuse box. we went to the firewall through a tiny hole on the passenger side and by the wheel and up under the BEC (Fuse Box)

They don't have the fuse connectors so you will need to go to wal-mart and pick up some. Once you got them, connect the wires and push them up under the fuse box.. then you'll need to buy 2 30w fuses. Finally follow the skematic to hook up the remanding wires and reinstall the radio.

put your car back together and your Shaker 1000 Subs should be kicking...

Overall Process: 13 Hours with Trip to wal-mart & studying the sketmatic which took the most time.
like i said please dont' follow this to install if you wish to install, once you have everything you need will write up a summary on how to install the system..
I owe a huge thanks to my dad, without him i don'tknow if this would have been possible... He worked @ Toyota fixing the robots when they broke down...In The AirForce working on Airplanes...An Electrican...Owned the Cable Company and now workng at TRW Valves...

Ford if your reading this.... We Did the Impossible...

Coleman

Pitch Black

The amps are located away from the head unit... the head units are different with a few componets to activate the Shaker Control other than that they are alike.
the amps are run directly out of the fuse box and off the battery.
The SHaker 1000 has 4 additional amps to power the subs.
The Shaker 500 alone has 2 each one powering the left or right sub.
totatling 6 amps in your car...

metroplex

Pitch Black:

So if I'm reading this correctly, the Shaker 500 and Shaker 1000 head units are virtually identical in performance except the Shaker 1000 has the "Shaker" control to activate/control the 4 additional amps for the subs in the trunk?

Pitch Black

that is correct

SixtySix

2 additional amps for the subs in the trunk. If you have the 500 you already have the 2 for the door subs.

Pitch Black

sixtysix... they are six amps.... total to teh shaker 1000... 2 in the front by the door an then you have 4 on a rack in the rear of the trunk..

rdk0420

Do you know the part numbers for the amps that power the doors and do you know where they are located exactly?

Also, I looked at the back of a shaker 500 and 1000 unit and they both have the same connections, no more or less. But, are you saying that there is still more to the 1000?

MustangRetribution

wouldnt it just be easier to run aftermarket subs and amps and deck, and get better sound while you were at it.


The Avic nav systems are pretty nice and look almost factory if thats what your going for.

Just a thought, I kinda wish I didnt have the 500 seems its going to make instally aftermarket gear more of a pain.

rdk0420

Well, I figure if I decide to go that route later it will be easier I have at least have the stock equip and harness installed first. Besides, keeping it mostly stock for right now is pretty much just plug and play. I am not really big on loud systems anyways, just clarity and I think that the stock system sounds pretty good.

tdbrown75

13 hours labor for a shaker 1000! I'd rather spend a few hundred on an aftermarket setup and have my hours left over for other activities like driving my Pony.

Still, that's pretty neat!

Tim

rdk0420

Yeah, but putting in the hours if it is something I want is never an issue....especially when it means working on my stang!

runningwild4.6

Good Information. I was wondering myself if all mustangs were prewired from the factory with the same harness. I guess it would be to logical to do so, it would make modifications that much easier. I think I'll modify mine with an aftermarket setup. the speakers in the shaker 500 have a lot to be desired.
I remember driving a rental 05 convertible with shaker 500 and it rocked with plenty of bass. the 08's I'm disapointed with bass response.
For the 1200 or so to upgrade to a 1000 I'll put in amps and speakers and utilize existing head unit for now

SixtySix

Sorry but you are incorrect in that assumption. I have the 1000, there are only 2 amps behind the subs. I remove them when I go drag racing, so I've been back there plenty of times.

Vermillion06

Pitch Black: I really admire you and your dad for taking on the challenge; these days most people won't try to do anything that some company has made into a prepackaged kit. Ingenuity is great!

Doing stuff like that and sharing the information with us helps everyone learn...

infinityonhigh

Congrats, but I think what Ford was trying to say is it is not upgradeable as a plug and play not as is in it couldn't be done otherwise. Nice little write up. I'm sure it will come in handy for those who want to do this swap.

rdk0420

So there are only 2 amps behind the rear subs? I just got the amps with bracket that goes in the rear and it looks like four subs (two on each side of the bracket)
Some told me that when you have the 1000 instead of the 500 that all four amps are in the rear and you do not have the two in the front anymore for the door subs, is that not correct?