I got my fuel block addapter part # MFF0004 from Metco Motorsports Solutions,Inc. It was only $29.95 plus shipping. There out of Anderson,SC Phone 864-332-5929 ... hope this helps.

Also You wouldn't need to tap into the fuse panel, just hook the red wire to the solid red wire on the light blue brake switch ,located just above the brake pedal brace ,there is two switchs ,don't use the first one but the light blue switch will have two wires coming from it ,use the solid red wire. The black wire will go to a good chasie ground. If you deside to hook up a shift light ,let me know I can help you on what wire to use on it also.

 

thanks, super helpful...

Here are some pics of the gauges, got them (and the stereo) in this weekend.. Let me know what you think.

I was missing some adapters to hook up the sending units on the gauges, so that's why the readings look a little odd, still waiting for those parts to come. Also, the boost gauge is clocked with the zero at the top not because i wanted to mimic nascar dashes, but because i had the gauges so close together that the mounting brackets wouldn't fit if they were all in line.

 

Looks good - I thought about doing that same thing because I have a pocket below my Eclipse deck, but decided to go with a SOS pod instead.

 

here's another questions that perhaps you can help with:

when I was driving to work this morning I realized that I didn't have any climate control control (and it's stuck on full hot). No fan, no a/c, no rear defrost, etc. I'm pretty confident that I reattached all the wiring, so any thoughts on what might be causing this? There was one plug that wasn't used from the back of the radio when I installed the new Metra harness, could that have something to do with it? Could that be keeping a circuit from completing? Would seem odd that something would route through the stereo, but i've seen stranger things? Is this is known issue, with a known fix? Maybe I popped a fuse during the install?

 

More than anything else, I would double check the cam-locks on the HVAC controls to make sure they're completely connected.

 

that's what i'm thinking too.... So, nothing that you know of that's a conflict with the aftermarket stereo install?

Do you know what they extra connector is for on the stock stereo that is not used with the aftermarket unit? I'm guessing that it has something to do with the vehicle-speed/auto-volume-adjustment. That's the only thing that I can think of that's not used on the new system.

 

I don't know of anything that conflicts with an aftermarket unit. I remember when I first tied my headunit into the factory Shaker 500, I had to tie into and place a resistor inline on one of the plugs so that the factory door subs worked. Maybe that's the other plug you're referring to? I can't remember, its been over a year since I installed my complete audio system; I no longer have any factory components in the car. What system do you have- Shaker 500, 1000, etc? Do your door subs still work now? Better take this to PMs so we don't continue to get the gauge thread further off track.

 

Anyone know if they are going to offer some sort of useful adapter to mount the SCT Livewire? I was considering that to eliminate some gauges...

-Darth

 

Yea, the same thing happen to me ,when I had to have my shaker 500 changed out for another one. take it to the ford dealer and have them reset the computer.I know it sounds crazy, but trust me it happen to me.
same exact stuff. This even puzzeled the ford tech at the dealer until he called and found out what to do.

 

Run the Red and yellow wires across the car to the passenger side kick panel. Remove the panel and fuse box cover. Refer to Don_w's wiring diagram I enclosed to see where to put them. Get 2 add a circuit things from AutoZone for this. Yellow is switched 12v and red is Constant 12v. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT or gauges won’t zero properly on startup of the car.

By wiring it this way, do your gauges dim when you adjust your headlights? Do I need to hook into the headlight switch instead for the illumination of the gauges??

 

for illumination on the gauges i just tapped into one of the illumination leads already in the area (i used the lead on the "info" button for the instrument display).. they dim perfectly and in unison with the rest of the dash.

 

John, How did you get to the wire? Did you have to pull your dash apart? Can you tell me what color the wire is and how to get to it? My gauges are in and working , all I have left is the wire for the lites. I dont want to tear into the dash if I dont need to. I have bad luck with plastic ( It Breaks). Thanks for your help!

 

I don't recall the color of the wire. You do have to take the radio bezel off, but it's really easy, then you can simply test the wires by leaving the ignition off and turning the lights on. Find one that has 12v when the ligts are on and 0v when they are off and you've got it.

Instructions for removing bezel:

1. Remove the 2 screws at the back of the center console, underneath the armrest (console door). They are all the way in the back near the hinges.

2. Remove the shift **** (manual), or the shifter bezel (automatic). then simply lift the console up from the rear (where you removed the screws in step one) and slightly toward the back of the car. It'll take a little wiggling around the e-brake, but it does come right out (i've found its easier when you pull the brake up as high as you can muster)

3. With the console out now the two panels flanking the radio will pull straight out (to the left and right of the stereo, the center console equivalent of "kick panels"). These pop right out in about 2 seconds.

4. Remove the approx 6-8 10mm bolts holding the actual stereo bezel in place and then pull it right off.

The entire process shouldn't take more than 10 minutes.

Hope this helps.

 

Just bought the Speed of Sound (SOS) a-pillar with three pods. Doing this mostly for the "cool factor" since my ride is N/A with just a CAI kit and tune, but I was thinking about what everyone suggested in this thread for choice of gauges. I personally was going to go with A/F ratio, oil temp, and tranny temp, I figure those are three items not already present in the 'dumb' stock gauges. But I'm not sure, will I have to drill holes into each of exhaust, pan, and tranny for that?? I was hoping the answer would be no, but I have to surf for install instructions for the gauges (have not decided which to go with yet).

 

Bump: oil temp & trans temp?

 

Nice write up 94tbird!!