Would all this work togather Kicker 06ZX750.1,Kicker 07CVR12-2 and scosche box.

 

Absolutely. I might pick a different sub. Depending on what kind of sound you want, that may not be the best driver choice. What kind of music, and how do you like to listen?

 

I listen to just about everything. I Have no problem hooking stuff up I have always gone in and rewired anything any stereo shop has ever done for me because I didnt like the way they did it. I know I want to use the scosche box and want something atleast 500watts. I dont want tp spend any more than 500 though. What would you suggest?

 

Honestly, a Fi Q12 would be the nearly perfect woofer for that box. Actually, the Soundstream Exact 12 works ****ed well, but it's a single 4 ohm, so not much help. The Dayton Titanic is a beast in that size enclosure also, but again, single 4. I'd be hard pressed to not get a Fi.

https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraud...iew.shopscript

 

Well 259 dollars seems like alot if I only want spend 500 total and cheapest place I seen the enclosure is 149. So what amp and sub would you buy for 350. I could maybe see spending 600 but no more. I need thoughs go fast parts too.

 

I have the Scosche subwoofer with a Hifonics 600 watt amp and it sounds pretty good considering the Scosche sub is about a $35 subwoofer. I figure when it blows I would look into either a JL W6 or Infinity Kappa to replace it.

 

Ahh, I thought you meant $500 for the sub only. Well, let me look around.

The Dayton HO seems sweet for the money http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=295-466
The enlosure for $149 is not bad, and an amp
http://www.lanzar.com/citempage.asp?MODEL=RBOPTI2X300D

It's refurb'd, but a great amp. It's also Class D so it is efficient, but it's a rare full-range D, so you can upgrade and do more things later.

Comes in at $437 + shipping, and PE is running free shipping now if you hurry.

 

Thanks man. I am going take your word and buy that exact set up. Only thing is that I pulled the trigger on driveshaft yesterday so going be couple of weeks till I get the cash.

 

So I am reading it right that the amp going to be pushing the sub at 300 watts or can I bridge it for 600.

 

600+ It's slightly underrated.

 

Look around on the internet. I got my loaded Scosche subwoofer for $150. I got my 600 watt Hifonics Zeus XX amplifier on ebay new for $149 (new). I also got four MB Quart 6x8 2-way speakers for under $200. You could always replace the Scosche subwoofer later on. That is what I plan to do and add a second amplifier for the mids and highs. I do suggest you think about an aftermarket head unit if you don't have one already.

 

I am new at this audio stuff...
Are you guys talking about the Scosche 05 Mustang Enclosure with 12" EFX HDW1204 Subwoofer. (from crutchfield)
If so, what is needed to get this to work with the Shaker 500?
Thanks...

 

Yes that is the one but you can find it cheaper if you look around. Easiest way would be to tap right off your rear speaker wires with a high level adapter or an amplifier with high level inputs. Best sounding would probably be to tap into the low level wires going to the rear. I figure since it is the same head unit used on the Shaker 1000 it should have these, just not connected.

 

OK, so is this all that we have to do:

1. Run wire from battery to amp.
2. Tap into back speakers and run wire to amp.
3. Run wire from amp to sub.

No need to tap into the Shaker 500 unit itself.

 

The wires are only there in the '05's. Ford left the extras out subsequently to cut costs. I have a Day2 '06 and the harness plug is in the trunk, but the wiring isn't there.

 

I plan on running my postive wire from my batter down passenger side of the car. Then find a nice flat surface in the truck and removing the paint there to but my ground. I plan on using a fuse that you get from autozone with wire attach to it and go from the fuse box to the amp for remote wire. Then I plan on using line converter to get signal from the rear speakers. something like this http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ZzYNF4S...erter&i=101PL2

 

Your'e good. CHeck your ground thoroughly. I ended up running mine all the way back to the battery. The resistance was far less and my voltage at the amp improved almost 1 full volt. That is significant, and I have no headlight dimming at ~1850 RMS. It's something to consider. Actually, I'll suggest using the bolts that hold the rear seat belts to the frame of the car. That way, you'll be grounded to the frame and not the body.

 

Whats the best way to get through the fire wall to the battery?

 

You can also buy that enclosure unloaded. Thats what I did and installed a Blaupunkt V12 sub. The low level sub signals are not present in the rear on 06 and newer cars without the S1000. You have to go to the connector near the sub amps at the driver kick panel. Power along the pasenger side is fine, there is a rubber plug through the firewall just below the batter/ac above the passenger footwell. Make sure the wire you run for power is sufficient for the amp.

 

Don't forget, to get to the firewall grommet, you have to remove the wheel-well liner. It's a cakewalk at that point. These cars are VERY easy to install a stereo in. Lot's of room for wiring, and it's easy to get to. Then, it actually goes back together.