I know everyone of you that has aluminum wheels and has taken them off has experienced this issue. As you guys know the brake rotors are steel and most of the stock and aftermarket wheels are aluminum or an alloy. Aluminum and steel don't mix well particularly when water is involved. I was changing my summer to winter wheels out today and they were stuck on the rotor hub pretty **** tight and that was after using antisieze on the hubs when I put them on last spring. I have also used diaelectric grease but can't say that worked any better. Is there a magic bullet out there someone has to prevent this issue??
Thanks Scott

 

I have always used a very light coat Permatex anti-seize w/o any trouble. I don't know what else would work.

 

I use anit-seize, but I take my wheels off monthly to clean them.

 

Id say tire rotating is your friend.

 

And I thought I was bad doing so every couple months

 

Never had that problem on mine.
I never let water touch my car.

 

When you only have a 4 month season, you want any pictures you take of the car to look good.

 

Of all the cars I've ever had with steel hubs and aluminum wheels I've never had this issue. My guess is the dry Colorado climate might be helping me in that regard.

I would think painting the rotor hats might help in this situation. Plus it would look better than a rusty rotor hat.

 

Thanks for the input guys. Seems antiseize is what most do so far. I really don't drive my car in the winter but it does get rained on in summer and of course washed a bunch. I was hoping someone had found a better option.

 

Anti-sieze here as well Scott.
Mine are do again as soon as it thaws.

 

I am going to try some high heat ehaust paint and paint the rotor hat where it contacts the wheel. This should eliminate the corrosion and make the wheels come off easy or it might just glue them on permanently.

Bob

 

Scott: We use a very thin coat of "Black Moly" (Molybdenum disulfide) heat proof anti-seizing wheel bearing grease on the hub's mounting face. Be sure to wipe off all of the excess. It totally repells water and also prevents the dis-similar metal corrosion of the hub and wheel contact areas. This because of it's all temperature anti seizing properties. (Look up Molybdenum Disulfide Grease info on the web).

Black Moly is used by the Gov. on jet fighters, in submarines and in the vehicles at the South Pole and even up in Alaska too. I first learned about it while serving in our U.S. military. We use it here in our grease guns for all zerks, in the wheel bearings and as a anti-rust surface covering on some bare metals such as bolt and nut threads before tightening. You can buy it in a tin or in a tube at most auto supply stores! Good luck.. CalStang

 

I was going to suggest a thin layer wheelbearing greese if you didn't have any anitsieze

 

I use Motorcraft brake caliper and dielectric lubricant on mine-and I rotate tires every 5K.

 

Thanks RC,
This is the type of suggestion I was hoping for. If fact I only swapped my front wheels out last weekend and still have the rears to do yet. I have nickel antiseize on the fronts and I will get some of the Black Moly for the rears and see which works the best when I swap back to summer rims in about May.
Scott

 

Just FYI:
In the old days we would loosen the nuts a little, roll back and jam the brakes.
Seemed to loosen the wheels every time. No grease needed.

 

Ha Ha Ha.....Well Karman that would work for sure. But that won't stop the pitting inside of my aluminum wheel hubs I am seeing from what I assume is caused by electrolysis (spelling). I going to get some of the Black Moly grease in the morning and swap out the back wheels.

 

Went to 2 autoparts stores today and "no luck" on the Moly Black D S grease. Seems everything today is some kind of synthetic.

 

Camshaft break in lube is Moly Disulfide too.

I always used cheap rattlecan enamel spraypaint on the hubs AND THREADS, it keeps stuff from rusting, peels right off when you remove the lugs... Moly Disulfide would probably work great too, but be careful- that stuff is black as coal, does not wash off, tends to get where you dont want it...we used it at work for the lathe chucks, it lasts like forever. its really slick, wouldnt use on lugnuts, the torque will be way off- might snap the lugs before they tighten up...I'm sure the paint I use messes with the torque a bit too, but its not a lube...never had one break stick/loosen up or even squeak when removing...spray a dab on a rag and put just a little on the coneseat part of the lugnuts- just a spot will smear around when tightening up sealing it...on the hub/threads it seems to work well for preventing sticky wheels. My F150 required loosening driving in a circle to get the wheels off(first flat was fun...) started using the cheep paint, never happened again.
just a opinion- use at own risk

 

A rubber mallet on the tire works well too.