Third Brake Lamp LED replacement
#21
Swamp Donkey Aficionado
Join Date: November 23, 2006
Posts: 1,863
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
LED's on '07-and-newer Mustangs?
Sorry if this is off-topic, guys, but I am pretty sure that I read somewhere that, in order to get LED's working properly on an '07-and-newer Mustang, the relays had to be upgraded (or something to that extent). I'm wondering if anyone knows anything regarding this as I, too, would like LED brakelights and third brakelight.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#22
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
Sound wave: Yep, I went with LEDs for the dome lights. They are dimly lit for a period of time but they DO shut off by themselves. I've been using them for over a year without any problems with the stock battery. The current draw is very small. I thought you had to use the load resistor to make it work properly. I'll keep an eye on it to see if it stays dimly lit.
For some ODD reason the S197 is the only car to exhibit this problem. My 2000 Vic has a lot of LEDs that I retrofitted and they stay OFF when you turn them off.
MARZ: On older cars you needed load resistors to make LEDs work for turn signals but for markers you can use them. I don't recommend them for the major housings since they don't emit enough light. I use LEDs for small markers like license plate lamps, sidemarkers, or interior lights where light isn't so critical.
For some ODD reason the S197 is the only car to exhibit this problem. My 2000 Vic has a lot of LEDs that I retrofitted and they stay OFF when you turn them off.
MARZ: On older cars you needed load resistors to make LEDs work for turn signals but for markers you can use them. I don't recommend them for the major housings since they don't emit enough light. I use LEDs for small markers like license plate lamps, sidemarkers, or interior lights where light isn't so critical.
#23
GT Member
Join Date: August 14, 2006
Location: L.A. area
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes a load resistor is needed on the '07 to eliminate the " low glow" issue....easy to install. I've had one for many months. Make sure it is not touching wire or anything else as it gets hot.
For those worrying about Vista Blue...I went with the red/white in the center version....I think it just blends in with the look of the clear reverse lights....but if you don't like the look VERY CAREFULLY exchange the stock red lens with the red/clear after market lens...from what I remember reading there are some plastic tabs that need to be gently pulled away from the housing.
For those worrying about Vista Blue...I went with the red/white in the center version....I think it just blends in with the look of the clear reverse lights....but if you don't like the look VERY CAREFULLY exchange the stock red lens with the red/clear after market lens...from what I remember reading there are some plastic tabs that need to be gently pulled away from the housing.
Last edited by Blitz; 10/7/08 at 10:34 AM.
#24
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
Has anyone checked to see how long it takes for the low glow to dissipate? The glow on my dome lights and trunk LED disappears after about half an hour and it doesn't suck up much current at all. Is this glow very noticeable with the brake light?
#25
Team Mustang Source
As far as the lens goes if the LED unit is made like the Factory unit you can unsnap the lens and change it for the factory one. Thats what I did for mine. The one I bought was the APC one with the clear section in the middle which I didn't like so presto chango it looks just like a factory light until I step on the brakes.
#26
Legacy TMS Member
I'm trying to figure why the LEDs glow, is there some holding voltage still on the line after the brake is released?
What size resistor and what is its impedance value?
To me heat is energy and there is some loss here as the resistor is getting hot. So which is worse losing electrical energy from the heat loss of an incandescent bulb or a load resistor? If they both get very hot then the losses should be similar. Does the resistor only get hot when the brakes are applied or as long as the ignition is on? At least the bulb only gets hot while it is on.
Just trying to understand this glow phenomenon and a viable fix.
BB
Semper Fi
What size resistor and what is its impedance value?
To me heat is energy and there is some loss here as the resistor is getting hot. So which is worse losing electrical energy from the heat loss of an incandescent bulb or a load resistor? If they both get very hot then the losses should be similar. Does the resistor only get hot when the brakes are applied or as long as the ignition is on? At least the bulb only gets hot while it is on.
Just trying to understand this glow phenomenon and a viable fix.
BB
Semper Fi
#27
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
The glow phenomenon is from the minute current that is still available to power up the LED. Incandescents need a lot of current to even glow dimly, so we don't see this effect with the stock bulbs. I am guessing the glow comes from the bussed electrical controller (BEC) used on the S197 to monitor current flow / grounding for all of the lighting. This phenomenon is NOT related directly to the use of LED capsules because I use the same capsules in my other Fords w/o any problems even with theater lighting from the LCM.
I don't like the idea of a loading resistor either, especially without proper thermal profiling and testing. I am going to see how much of a glow there is before making a decision.
I don't like the idea of a loading resistor either, especially without proper thermal profiling and testing. I am going to see how much of a glow there is before making a decision.
#28
Swamp Donkey Aficionado
Join Date: November 23, 2006
Posts: 1,863
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The glow phenomenon is from the minute current that is still available to power up the LED. Incandescents need a lot of current to even glow dimly, so we don't see this effect with the stock bulbs. I am guessing the glow comes from the bussed electrical controller (BEC) used on the S197 to monitor current flow / grounding for all of the lighting. This phenomenon is NOT related directly to the use of LED capsules because I use the same capsules in my other Fords w/o any problems even with theater lighting from the LCM.
I don't like the idea of a loading resistor either, especially without proper thermal profiling and testing. I am going to see how much of a glow there is before making a decision.
I don't like the idea of a loading resistor either, especially without proper thermal profiling and testing. I am going to see how much of a glow there is before making a decision.
Thanks!
#29
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
MARZ: If the glow is like the glow we see from LED dome lights and LED trunk lights, it's not going to drain the batteries or cause heat issues since the LEDs are just turning on because there's just enough power to make them glow, while the same power is not capable of turning on the incandescents. I discovered this while testing out LEDs using an AC adapter. Even when I pulled the AC adapter off the wall socket, there was enough charge in the adapter to keep the LEDs dimly lit for like 5+ minutes.
The load resistor should only dissipate heat when the brakes are being used. Otherwise they just sap up enough current to prevent the LEDs from glowing. Again, I think this is a problem specific to how the S197 electrical system was designed and newer cars are likely to have the same problem.
However, if the glow makes the 3rd brake light illuminate, it may confuse drivers behind you. I'm expecting my LED clusters sometime this week, so I'll do some checking. I need to make sure they provide comparable illumination as the stock incandescent 921 and that the glow is not going to be visible in the dark or under daylight conditions.
The load resistor should only dissipate heat when the brakes are being used. Otherwise they just sap up enough current to prevent the LEDs from glowing. Again, I think this is a problem specific to how the S197 electrical system was designed and newer cars are likely to have the same problem.
However, if the glow makes the 3rd brake light illuminate, it may confuse drivers behind you. I'm expecting my LED clusters sometime this week, so I'll do some checking. I need to make sure they provide comparable illumination as the stock incandescent 921 and that the glow is not going to be visible in the dark or under daylight conditions.
Last edited by metroplex; 10/8/08 at 05:20 AM.
#30
Mach 1 Member
Join Date: October 20, 2005
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posts: 874
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
the glow that i had was barely visible. drivers won't confuse it for being an applied brake light. in the day you can't notice really it. at night, is when you can see it.
does anyone know of a load resistor that won't get as hot on the surface? i know they all will put off heat but...
does anyone know of a load resistor that won't get as hot on the surface? i know they all will put off heat but...
#31
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
How much of a glow is there at night w/o the load resistor? Is it enough to make it visible or be seen as the brakes being applied? You could always write it off as a marker light that turns brighter when you step on the brakes, just like your stop lamps.
#32
Bullitt Member
The only problem with those is that they're available only in clear, clear/red, and smoke. They'd look on a Vista Blue Mustang. So far the people that have chimed in have gray or black Mustangs, which are perfect candidates for the smoked lens.
How did you swap out the third brake light without removing the plastic trim?
How did you swap out the third brake light without removing the plastic trim?
#33
#34
Here ya go. I like it so far, but I think I should have went with the smoked version. I think it looks better then having all that red on the back of the car
Last edited by gremlin190; 10/9/08 at 09:55 AM.
#35
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for taking the pic. I think I'll stick with all-red lenses for the back, it contrasts better with the Vista blue but in the end, the only people that will see these things are Chevy and Dodge owners.
#36
Legacy TMS Member
As far as the lens goes if the LED unit is made like the Factory unit you can unsnap the lens and change it for the factory one. Thats what I did for mine. The one I bought was the APC one with the clear section in the middle which I didn't like so presto chango it looks just like a factory light until I step on the brakes.
TIA
BB
Semper Fi
#37
Wow, this thread brings back memories. I originally bought the APC model when I first got my '07. I too swapped out the red/clear lens with the stock one. It was great except for the glowing problem. The glowing drove me nuts and on the '07's and newer, all you had to do was have any electrical activity (e.g. opening the door and the dome lamp lighting) and it would start glowing. It would stop after the 30 minute electrical cutoff time would kick in.
I sent back the APC unit and got the smoke unit from IPCW (In Pro Care Wear). Had the glowing problem too. Called the engineer there and he built the resistor for me and sent it to me. He also said that they would incorporate the resistor into future models. I've been happy with it and gotten a lot of compliments. I'll try and post pics tomorrow.
I sent back the APC unit and got the smoke unit from IPCW (In Pro Care Wear). Had the glowing problem too. Called the engineer there and he built the resistor for me and sent it to me. He also said that they would incorporate the resistor into future models. I've been happy with it and gotten a lot of compliments. I'll try and post pics tomorrow.
#38
Bullitt Member
#39
Cobra Member
Join Date: August 2, 2004
Location: West Kelowna, British Columbia
Posts: 1,257
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
disconnect the emergency pull handle
reach behind both sides and stick fingers into little space (sorry blurry. took pic with my left hand)
firmly pull down with both hands
cover only held on with 2 clips.
from there, easy access to the 3rd brake light (i guess that resistor DOES get hot)
reach behind both sides and stick fingers into little space (sorry blurry. took pic with my left hand)
firmly pull down with both hands
cover only held on with 2 clips.
from there, easy access to the 3rd brake light (i guess that resistor DOES get hot)