I was all set on the steeda ultra springs, but saw the add for the Eibach Sportline springs.

Has anyone tried them? Can you still adjust your alignment into factory specs or do you have to go with aftermarket caster/camber plates?

They drop the front 1.6 inches and the rear 2 inches....not sure if I really want that much of a drop.

Need opinions.

Thanks as always

 

You might want to check with stkdidy and Cleveland. I know they have them.

 

My opinion is, go with Pro-kit if you don't want that much of a drop, and buy alingment bolts from Summit for $8 to be able to adjust the camber (don't spend $200 with Steeda, the bolts would do the same function), but as I learned the hard way, PLEASE, take it to a shop that has done dropped cars in the past, and know what an alignment bolt is, not any alignment shop.

Good luck

 

I picked up the Sportlines and love the drop. I did buy the Camber Bolts and had the car re-aligned as well at the dealer. THe only thing I want to add are the new dampers... to smooth out the ride just a bit.

 

Okay, if you want your alignment to be within factory specs I suggest gettings the camber bolts for both sides and having someone bore out the alignment holes.

Camber: I just got my second realignment just yesterday and the passengerside was at -1.3 which is at one end of the spec range. The driverside was at -1.8, thats only .5 degrees out of spec.

Caster: My caster is 8. (.4 degrees out of spec) on the passengerside only, the driverside is within spec at 7.4.

Toe was corrected too.

I could care less if my tires dont wear completely even, thats what tire rotations are for.

I had my passengerside control arm adjusted too, it was a bit off. My rear is centered again. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumb.gif[/img]

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Cleveland @ February 3, 2006, 6:22 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Okay, if you want your alignment to be within factory specs I suggest gettings the camber bolts for both sides and having someone bore out the alignment holes.

Camber: I just got my second realignment just yesterday and the passengerside was at -1.3 which is at one end of the spec range. The driverside was at -1.8, thats only .5 degrees out of spec.

Caster: My caster is 8. (.4 degrees out of spec) on the passengerside only, the driverside is within spec at 7.4.

Toe was corrected too.

I could care less if my tires dont wear completely even, thats what tire rotations are for.

I had my passengerside control arm adjusted too, it was a bit off. My rear is centered again. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumb.gif[/img]
[/b][/quote]

Those numbers look good. I don't know why everyone else is getting their panties in a bunch about being outside the stock settings. If you corner aggressively, even as a daily driver, going to -1.5 camber may actually help out in the tire wear department. A little more positive caster shouldn't be an issue either.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(S197 GT @ February 1, 2006, 2:19 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
You might want to check with stkdidy and Cleveland. I know they have them.
[/b][/quote]


total initial drop was right at 2in front and back, but has since settled to 2.25 in back and 2.5 in front...basically one finger of wheel gap in back and none up front.

i got steeda C/C plates with the different "adjustable" inserts...the shop used the ones with the most correction. there is still negligible negative camber, but it looks nice and mean. tires wear out on the insides faster, but still last a good number of miles (15k on my current ones and no noticeable wear). you can always have the tires taken off the rims and switched sides if you are paranoid, tho i don recommend it (or rotate them, but i have staggered tire sizes)

2in drop is the perfect drop for this car imo. to get away with less requires lower side skirts/front fascia and/or bigger rims imo.