Shelby Signature... protection question
Shelby Signature... protection question
I recently purchased a blank dash plaque with Carrol Shelby's signature on it similar to those made for the Shelby GT's and GT500's and would like to know how to protect it. Is there something I could easily do or take it to someone who could to gaurantee that it would be protected from day to day wear and tear in my car? Thanks!
Long-term the model clear will yellow, it is not UV stabilized, at least last time I bought any it wasn't. I have an F14 I built in my teens that now has a yellow undercarriage...and it isn't in the sun or anything like that. Given that they have now probably pulled every good chemical (any worth their smell anyway) out of the paints, I doubt this has gotten any better.
A good automotive clear (not a can, a real finish) will give you your longest-term protection over a "signed" piece. Clear powdercoat is another option, althought depending upon the part, it may have trouble in the baking process...
A good automotive clear (not a can, a real finish) will give you your longest-term protection over a "signed" piece. Clear powdercoat is another option, althought depending upon the part, it may have trouble in the baking process...
You can also send in a part from your car such as an airbag panel and have it signed.
yup that's where I got it and its awesome once I protect it and mount it I will post pics ... As for the model clearcoat i thought about that but i hear long term its not good in the sun marcello what/how/where would i do your ideas?
If you really want to protect it then take it to your local body shop and have them clear coat it. If you want it satin or flat finished they can add a flattener to the clear coat as well as a flex agent and bonding agent that won’t let anything damage the signature.
Don’t use model paints or lacquers they are not worth the trouble and wont last.
Don’t use model paints or lacquers they are not worth the trouble and wont last.
If you really want to protect it then take it to your local body shop and have them clear coat it. If you want it satin or flat finished they can add a flattener to the clear coat as well as a flex agent and bonding agent that won’t let anything damage the signature.
Don’t use model paints or lacquers they are not worth the trouble and wont last.
Don’t use model paints or lacquers they are not worth the trouble and wont last.
A bodyshop can shoot it with ease. They are clear coating stuff all the time and just need to bring the plaque in during another job and shoot it. Can't imagine a shop charging something crazy for it but I am sure some would. 20 to 30 bucks maybe.
I just talked to my local body shop (actually a custom paint and graphics shop) and was informed that the clear coat would not stick to the aluminum 100% and that it might chip. Now I’m not sure what to do! Anyone have any regrets after clearing their pieces?
Tim
Tim
Should be fine just like it is,since it isn't going to be outside in the elements, looks like the plate will be in the interior, I won't worry about clearing it. The only other method that I can think of is useing an adhesion promotor,automotive grade. the adhesive promotor will give the paint something to bite into. But really I would just install it like it is. don't want to take a chance and mess up a nearly $300.00 piece.
I heard not to use Krylon on it as it will smear it.
Well, I had mine done over a year ago and its still doing OK.
I spent hours and hours doing research before deciding on a course of action. Leaving it unprotected was not an option for me; I have other sharpie signed collectibles which have all faded over time. These are items that are in my home and not exposed to direct sunlight. I figured I had to do something because I would never be happy knowing the signature would eventually fade away, especially since it would be exposed to heat and direct sunlight being inside the automobile.
I ended up following the advice I found on various art and collectible sites, and hit it with Krylon. I have to say the Krylon did a magnificent job. It did not streak or smear the signature in any way, and after putting down about a dozen coats the piece looks no different than it did before, I can’t even tell anything was done to it. That being said Krylon will smear a sharpie marker if you put down too heavy a coat and the liquid pools, so if you do take this route please be careful!
I used the Krylon UV resistant acrylic clear with Matte finish. When I sprayed the plaque, I made VERY light coats to start. The first 1/2 dozen coats were short single pass sprays, nothing more than a mist. I allowed for 10 minutes drying time between each coat. After that, I felt more comfortable putting down six heavier coats which consisted of 4-6 misting each. The Krylon is supposed to bond to metal, is guaranteed not to yellow, and the UV resistance should keep the Sharpie form fading.
All and all I could not be happier with the result, and it did not cost me 50 bucks like the body shop wanted. I’ll enjoy the plaque much more knowing that it is protected.
Tim
I ended up following the advice I found on various art and collectible sites, and hit it with Krylon. I have to say the Krylon did a magnificent job. It did not streak or smear the signature in any way, and after putting down about a dozen coats the piece looks no different than it did before, I can’t even tell anything was done to it. That being said Krylon will smear a sharpie marker if you put down too heavy a coat and the liquid pools, so if you do take this route please be careful!
I used the Krylon UV resistant acrylic clear with Matte finish. When I sprayed the plaque, I made VERY light coats to start. The first 1/2 dozen coats were short single pass sprays, nothing more than a mist. I allowed for 10 minutes drying time between each coat. After that, I felt more comfortable putting down six heavier coats which consisted of 4-6 misting each. The Krylon is supposed to bond to metal, is guaranteed not to yellow, and the UV resistance should keep the Sharpie form fading.
All and all I could not be happier with the result, and it did not cost me 50 bucks like the body shop wanted. I’ll enjoy the plaque much more knowing that it is protected.
Tim
Thanks Tim. I am hoping to get a signature shortly (see link) http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showthread.php?t=72681
and I was wondering the same thing. Is there something that might work better than a Sharpie? How about a paint pen? Any ideas on the best part of the car to sign? I'll have my car there with Carroll, so any part should work. I know the dash would be most visible, but if I get into an accident and pop the airbag, won't that necessitate replacing the cover? Like you, I want something permanent.
and I was wondering the same thing. Is there something that might work better than a Sharpie? How about a paint pen? Any ideas on the best part of the car to sign? I'll have my car there with Carroll, so any part should work. I know the dash would be most visible, but if I get into an accident and pop the airbag, won't that necessitate replacing the cover? Like you, I want something permanent.



