tu3218

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...rubber+coating

Was looking around in advance auto parts and came across this. I believe its plasti-dip by the name but didn't want to buy it without knowing for sure.

Also if it is, when I was looking at it in the store, it said something about spraying in ~70 degree temperature. Is that a must? Its about mid to upper 40s where I'm at and wouldn't want to make my first attempt at using plasti dip a bad experience.

houtex

No, that is not Plasti-Dip. That's undercoating and is a completely different product.

Go to Home Depot or Lowes. Plasti-Dip is sold there.
http://www.homedepot.com/Paint-Craft...PRC_MODE|0&c=1

As an example, from Home Despot.. er, Depot.

tu3218

Okay thank you very much. Glad I didn't purchase it.

houtex

No prob, glad to be of service! And good luck with your project!

tu3218

thanks, appreciate it! Do you know if there is recommended temperature for this to be done at?

houtex

I'm sure it's on the can. I haven't used it yet. I'm going to soon for the Motorcycle Project That Never Ends, but I haven't even read the can. I've been setting up a shop light (which makes an effective heat lamp) in the garage, waiting a bit, then going in and shooting things. Oh, and of course, a good filter mask. I don't want teh bran damige.

But it's due to the solvents in the stuff that the directions are made for, not the materials. The solvents have to evaporate so the stuff hardens up, whether that's paint or undercoating or this plastic material. This is usually given in instructions that assume somewhere about 70 degrees and 50% humidity, and is the driving force of the time you wait for second coats, time for final color (if it's a primer), time to touch, time to be cured and ready for the world to assault it.

10 degrees swing is a rather large amount of percentage of increase/decrease in time. The humidity is less so, but does affect the time it takes for the solvents to get out.

Hence, the relatively controlled atmosphere of my garage with a heat lamp. I've had consistent product control in that environment, although it does stink up the garage some. This is why a paint booth is used in pro shops, to ensure it's *always* some degrees and humidity, so that the pro can shoot the products and know exactly what times it will take, as well as get a good result, every time.

So if you can semi-duplicate a good environment close to what's on the can's directions, you'll get good results. Although with this stuff, I've heard just shooting it is just what you do. Practice first to see what happens maybe. If it's too cold, wait, as it'll never dry. If it's too hot, well, work fast, it's gonna cure a whole lot faster that you want. And if it's windy, just... don't. And if you tape things off, with Plastidip, REMOVE THE TAPE IMMEDIATELY, as it will bond with the plastic otherwise and make a very messy line.

Otherwise... uh... no, I don't. But it'll be on the can.

/I do tend to go on... Sorry.

tu3218

Alright thanks man. Helps a lot actually. I'm still debating if I want to do it anyway lol. Meaning if I want to go for that look. I was going to start at the chrome pony emblem on the front. Maybe smoke out my fogs. Give a meaner/darker look maybe?

Glenn

I wonder how well the plasti dip would work for sound deadner on the under carriage? Probably not as well as some other products made for that purpose. price wise?

tu3218

Hmmm yeah good idea. That's technically one of the uses for plastidip anyway I believe. So it may work decently. I'd like that but also like hearing the loudness of my car lol

houtex

Plastidip isn't as thick as the undercoating, or a mat, so it would be a lesser sound deadening product. Not sayin' it wouldn't work some, but not as good as true undercoating or the mats or such.

Only way to find out if it's worth it is to try it... but if it's to kill sound, I don't think you'll be terribly happy with Plastidip as an alternative.