Have a friend who is gonna be doing this soon and was wondering which ones to get, so please post up with where you got yours and how do you like them. Hopefully maybe even pics and if you know what material they are made of, that as well. Thanks

 

You will need the ones with 5 inch posts, most are 4 inch posts...of course it depends where you mount them,

Installing the backing plate is the easiest way to dimple the hood,

For those that are not garage queens you will need to make sure all parts will be rest proof, have seen the screws that are already rusted,

If you do not attach the lanyards under the hood people have a tendency to walk away with them,

The factory hood is two layers so must drill the bottom layer first then check the post location again and then drill the second layer,

Moroso sells 5 inch sets, Ford Racing ones are 4 inch,

The above information came from folks at local shows that had the pins..but who knows,

There are several good posts here on how to install them, very helpful.

 

thanks the main concern was the material so as not to get something too flimsy (as I have seen some are) and something that wont rust, but the height is a good thing to know as well thanks I didnt think about that. They will be professionally installed so no worries there.

But as for the materials, which ones wont rust, are sturdy and also still look good?

 

I can't seem to find the thread where Steve provided the excellent write-up on installing the pins. Must've been lost in the reload. We used the same ones, cheapies from AutoZone/PepBoys. Mine were only $8, and the package said all Stainless Stell parts. The pins are perfect, but the scuff plates are very thin and easily damaged. The keys are actually chromed, which started flaking off quite quickly, but they haven't rusted. I'll eventually find new keys and plates to replace mine, but the pins I'll keep.

 

The placement of the pins is what is critical...Eric R's pin's are in the best place just like the pictures I posted in your other thread on the same topic. You have to carefully lay out your pins on each side of the flat plastic radiator cover. It is 1/2 inch from the edge of the shroud to the centerline of the pin ( that will put the holes in your hood 2 1/2 inches-center of hole- to the inside of the creases in your hood) After you get your pin's installed perfectly, cut a notch in your felt hood liner where the pin's touch. Then dab a little paint on the tip of each pin, then gently lower your hood on top off the pin's. Bingo, two perfect mark's to drill... Start with a very small sharp drill bit and drill a pilot hole from the underside off the hood. Then go to larger sizes and drill from the top side. A sheet metal "step bit" is ideal as it leaves a nice chamfered edge. 5/8 this will be your final hood hole size. I did not use the bottom plates for the hood because of the hood shape on the bottom side. If you tighten them at all it will dimple the hood.
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I used a short sheet metal screw. Drilled a hole along the inside flange where the front cross member meets the side. Looped the cable on the screw and inserted screw. That side is not coming loose. The other loop gets put on the pin against the flex ring. The ring goes in the post from the outside going in. 5/8 inch hole is all you need. I ended up using a counter sink bit. 5/8 wide and 3/4 inch long. Worked great. I was warned, correctly to be careful screwing the plate down. The hood bends veryeasy. So much so that I had to abandon using the lower plate. I used machine bolts of 3/4 inch length and put washers on both inside and out and two nuts with locktite on the underside. Still be careful tightening the top plate. I eased that problem somewhat by using thin rubber foam, from a craft store. Comes in 8 x 11 inch sheets. it is about 1/8 inch thick. I cut a pattern to match the top plate and used it as a gasket between the car and plate. Cut an x in the center for the post to come out of. Works like a charm!
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My hood pins are in the exact same spot. They are approx. a 1/2" away on each side of the flat plastic radiator shroud, on the cross member that the rubber hood stops are on. I didn't weld them on I used a 1/2"x 1" bolt w/ the same thread size as the FRP post. I put the bolt (1/2"x1") through the bottom of the cross member in the hole I drilled then used a tall (regular) 1/2" nut. There was enough threads left in the nut to screw the FRP post into. I double nuted it and used red lock tight, solid as a rock! Just an alternative to welding them in.
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One wire gets looped into the pin next to the big flex ring. The other goes under the hood and to where the front and side upper framework meet, where I drilled a hole and inserted a machine screw that had a head with a washer all in one piece. I looped the cable with the screw before inserting the screw. It cannot come off without breaking.

 

WOW! That turned out really big-

 

Here ya go!

Installation for my hood pins.
I used the stainless steel circles from the Ford Racing pin set because they were thicker than any of the other sets I found which were just thin tin, but had to use the hood pins and clips from a set I bought at PEPBOYS. The FR pins were not long enough. The pins I used were 4"+/- long with the clip holes closer to the top.

Begin by taking off the front fascia.
To take off the front fascia you need to remove the top radiator panel, which has several pop clips. The ones that you pull the center up and then remove. Jack the front of the car up and put on stands. (Ramps may not give you the clearance you need to work at the screws in the wheel well.) Then remove the plastic shield under the car that attaches to the front fascia. It has 4 or 5 hex screws, I think they were like 5/32".
Then on the inside front wheel wells remove 3 screws and 1 screw that pops out. Pull the black plastic toward the wheel. You should see the 2 nuts (10mm) on the outer edge of the bumper as it raps around the corner. Take those out and then go back to the lights and remove the top 2 bolts (10mm) on the lights. Unplug all the lights and you should be able to remove the whole front panel grill and all. Avoid touching the bulbs with you hands. I hear it makes them burn out faster.
There are 2 more bolts at the bottom of the lights on each side that you need to remove to pull out the assembly. Now you can start to work on your pins.

Use the existing holes in the radiator bracket next to the outer rubber hood stop.


The bottom nut and washer (on the pin) will be inside the radiator support bracket. You need to enlarged the bottom hole from the under side of the support to get the nut and washer in and use a socket to tighten the pin. I used a Dremel with a carbide cutter. Paint the exposed metal with primer or touch up paint to avoid future rust. Install your pins and finger tighten them so you can mark the holes for the hood.


Put some wet paint on the tips of the pins and it will mark the location on the hood for you.

Take your time drilling the holes. Start small and align your pins as you go. Don't drill through both inner and outer hood at the same time, the pin location changes as you drop the hood.
The inside hole must be larger. Once the holes are completed lower and latch the hood so you can start on the Chrome circles.
I also added a rubber gasket between the hood and the chrome circle.
I just took an old inner tube and cut it to fit. I left the center hole tight to help keep water out.
Align the chrome circles and dill a pilot hole for one screw. Start with a small hole until you get a hole size that will allow you to screw them in without cracking the fiberglass. Drill the rest of the holes and install the rest of the screws.
Adjust the height of the pins so the hood has just a bit of pressure to it. I made mine so I have to push the hood down just a bit to insert the pins. You can also use the rubber hood stop to add some pressure if the hood height is aligned.
The clips I used are the cotter pin type and I bent the ends of them up a bit so they wouldn't scratch the chrome circles when I take them in and out.

Make sure everything is adjusted before you put the front back on.
I think that was everything.
Oh, test drive by getting the car up over 120 MPH!!!
Hope this helps and good luck and take your time.

 

Silverhorse racing has a set on their web site.
http://www.silverhorseracing.com/web...ategory_id=261

 

thanks everyone I relay this info to him.

 

Just the thought of drilling holes in my hood gives me the "*******." I guess once you've drilled a hole in your head, I mean hood...there's no going back.

 

Agree 100%, thats going to take some kahunas at first.

 

Think small drills guys - pop a hole with a .075 or something, and if it's anywhere in the ballpark, you can pop one right next to it if needed before coming through with a .250 or so for the main hole.

Turst me, nothing worse than drilling the hole and then realizing it was in the wrong spot... BTDT, luckily years ago on a Fox hood that was destined for race duty, so at 50/50, it was still looking good...

 

OK, I lamented over drilling holes and the wife solved the issue for me. She got me CDC stick on's and I love them. BUT when I talk her into the calif. dreaming hood, I will get the real ones.