I did a quick search and apparently nobody has posted about these. I just got mine in, so i'll share some info and pics about it.

HIDGuy 8000k 5202 HID kit



Stock on Passenger side, and HID on driver side





OK, something to know about these before getting them...
They have had some problems with the inside of the reflector bubbling up from heat on some fogs over at FordGT500.com. The cause (according to HIDGuy) is a lack of a way for the heat from the bulbs to escape. The fix is to remove the little black rubber sticker from the back of the fog light.

Black sticker:



Vent hole under it:

 

Ok then I guess nobody cares... 31 views and no replies... No wonder I couldn't find anything about them on here.

 

Removing the seal will eventually lead to fogging and a dirty reflector. The only real answer for installing aftermarket HIDs in the fog locations is a replacement glass and metal housing which has not made it to market yet. HIDguy claims to be working on it.

 

I care... go back to fordgt500.com and read the latest... Removing the sticker isn't necessarily the solution. It may prevent melting, but other issues may occur- see link: http://www.fordgt500.com/forums/show...&highlight=hid

Cut'n Pasted below-

"I can offer some engineering information about general headlamp design and heat venting:

The hole in the housing above the bulb is for venting as you guys have said. I have not looked at mine, but you are saing the sticker is made from rubber? So I can bet that the housing with the factory bulb does not need venting, but the hole was added to the housing in the design stage of the lamp as a "just in case" measure or in case a hotter bulb was offered in the future. The hole is designed to have a sticker placed over it made from a Gortex material that will allow heat and air to cross, but no moisture. This allows venting, but no moisture to be sucked in when the lamp is cooling. This is effective in allowing heat to vent out if it is in the correct location over the bulb. It may not do as well as designed with the HID bulb because of the size of the bulb.

Another purpose for the vent hole is for release of pressure from heat rise inside the lamp over ambient. Excessive pressure buildup could cause failure of the lens adhesive. I have seen up to 3PSIG inside a lamp over outside from heat of the bulb.

The reflective coating on the reflector inside surface is a process called vacuum metalizing. Basically it is vaporized aluminum blasted onto the plastic surface in a vacuum chamber. This gives a very thin, reflective, and cost effective reflective surface. The aluminum itself is resistant to heat, but the plastic it is on is not. Once the plastic reaches it HDT (heat deflection temperature) the metalized coating will bubble and flake off.

So, in designing the lamp, you pick a plastic material that will not get to it's HDT. The lower the HDT of the plastic, generally the lower the cost. So, if you have a hotter bulb, you will need a better plastic material with a higher HDT. In design there are tools that can predict the heat signiture, but it is not 100% accurate.

To solve a heat problem in a lamp you can do a few things:
1. Use plastic material with higher HDT: This will cost more, and may not be manufacturable in the current plastic mold because of difference in flow rate, shrink rate, ect
2. Add a vent with Gortex patch
3. Add a bulb shield directly over the bulb so the heat is not concentrated on the housing right above the bulb
4. Use metal housing
5. Make the housing larger in volume
6. Use lower wattage bulb, or different shape bulb, uncoated tip usually puts off less heat"

I'm waiting for the upgraded housing.

BTW- Nice illustration Dez...

 

i understand it's not the permanent solution. but for the people who would like to have em now, it's the solution right now. and also, if my fog light housings do bubble up, i'll just buy more anyways. Being that it's a daily driver, the fog's get pretty chipped up down there, so I wouldnt mind replacing them every once and a while until a glass version comes out.

 

Sounds like a plan. Keep us updated on the longevity of your housings...

 

Dez, 1st of all, nice write-up, but I don't see anywhere in your post where to purchase these. As for the rest of the info, very nice work.

 

He states they are from hidguy. Also I though PIAA made a HID lamp that fits in the shelby foglight location?

 

http://www.hidguy.net/

DEZ, how's the housings holding up with the 35w set-up? I just installed his latest 25w (4300K OEM White) kit and so far so good...

 

havent had any problems with it so far. no moisture inside the housings, no bubbles, works perfectly.

 

Any Updates on this? Has anyone done this? Or what size bulbs do you need for the headlights and GT500
fogs. If you buy after market bulbs like PIAA and not go HID?

 

i still havnt had any of the problems with my HID kit. still no bubbles, no moisture... and i use my fogs every time i turn my headlights on, which is every morning cause i got to work at 4:30 am

 

Any updates? How are they working?

 

Would the vent work better if it was bored out with a drill more and a larger gortex sticker in its place? I looks like there is room for it.

 

I bought some 5000k led lights for the fogs. I was also worried about the lens getting to hot, that's why I went with the led lights instead. I know they won't be as bright as the hid, but my headlights are already bright enough, so not a big deal for me. I hated the amber tint the stock fog lights had, so these match my 5000k headlights great!

 

I've had the HIDGUY/Venomousstangs.net 25w HID kit in mine since last summer, including a trip from Boston to KC and back driven mostly at night with the driving lights on.

Housings are factory original with no mods (seals intact, etc). No sign of any issues at all, lenses and reflectors both still perfect.

 

still no bubbles, and no condensation