FRPP hood pins installed
10/24/05, 04:17 PM
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Here you go: page 2 of the thread, post #31:
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index.php?sh...od%20pins&st=20
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index.php?sh...od%20pins&st=20
Originally posted by SC67Stang@July 31, 2005, 9:43 PM
Installation for my hood pins.
I used the stainless steel circles from the Ford Racing pin set because they were thicker than any of the other sets I found which were just thin tin, but had to use the hood pins and clips from a set I bought at PEPBOYS. The FR pins were not long enough. The pins I used were 4"+/- long with the clip holes closer to the top.
Begin by taking off the front fascia.
To take off the front fascia you need to remove the top radiator panel, which has several pop clips. The ones that you pull the center up and then remove. Jack the front of the car up and put on stands. (Ramps may not give you the clearance you need to work at the screws in the wheel well.) Then remove the plastic shield under the car that attaches to the front fascia. It has 4 or 5 hex screws, I think they were like 5/32".
Then on the inside front wheel wells remove 3 screws and 1 screw that pops out. Pull the black plastic toward the wheel. You should see the 2 nuts (10mm) on the outer edge of the bumper as it raps around the corner. Take those out and then go back to the lights and remove the top 2 bolts (10mm) on the lights. Unplug all the lights and you should be able to remove the whole front panel grill and all. Avoid touching the bulbs with you hands. I hear it makes them burn out faster.
There are 2 more bolts at the bottom of the lights on each side that you need to remove to pull out the assembly. Now you can start to work on your pins.
Use the existing holes in the radiator bracket next to the outer rubber hood stop.
The bottom nut and washer (on the pin) will be inside the radiator support bracket. You need to enlarged the bottom hole from the under side of the support to get the nut and washer in and use a socket to tighten the pin. I used a Dremel with a carbide cutter. Paint the exposed metal with primer or touch up paint to avoid future rust. Install your pins and finger tighten them so you can mark the holes for the hood.
Put some wet paint on the tips of the pins and it will mark the location on the hood for you.
Take your time drilling the holes. Start small and align your pins as you go. Don't drill through both inner and outer hood at the same time, the pin location changes as you drop the hood.
The inside hole must be larger. Once the holes are completed lower and latch the hood so you can start on the Chrome circles.
I also added a rubber gasket between the hood and the chrome circle.
I just took an old inner tube and cut it to fit. I left the center hole tight to help keep water out.
Align the chrome circles and dill a pilot hole for one screw. Start with a small hole until you get a hole size that will allow you to screw them in without cracking the fiberglass. Drill the rest of the holes and install the rest of the screws.
Adjust the height of the pins so the hood has just a bit of pressure to it. I made mine so I have to push the hood down just a bit to insert the pins. You can also use the rubber hood stop to add some pressure if the hood height is aligned.
The clips I used are the cotter pin type and I bent the ends of them up a bit so they wouldn't scratch the chrome circles when I take them in and out.
Make sure everything is adjusted before you put the front back on.
I think that was everything.
Oh, test drive by getting the car up over 110 MPH!!!
Hope this helps and good luck and take your time.
Here is a shot of the finished product.
Installation for my hood pins.
I used the stainless steel circles from the Ford Racing pin set because they were thicker than any of the other sets I found which were just thin tin, but had to use the hood pins and clips from a set I bought at PEPBOYS. The FR pins were not long enough. The pins I used were 4"+/- long with the clip holes closer to the top.
Begin by taking off the front fascia.
To take off the front fascia you need to remove the top radiator panel, which has several pop clips. The ones that you pull the center up and then remove. Jack the front of the car up and put on stands. (Ramps may not give you the clearance you need to work at the screws in the wheel well.) Then remove the plastic shield under the car that attaches to the front fascia. It has 4 or 5 hex screws, I think they were like 5/32".
Then on the inside front wheel wells remove 3 screws and 1 screw that pops out. Pull the black plastic toward the wheel. You should see the 2 nuts (10mm) on the outer edge of the bumper as it raps around the corner. Take those out and then go back to the lights and remove the top 2 bolts (10mm) on the lights. Unplug all the lights and you should be able to remove the whole front panel grill and all. Avoid touching the bulbs with you hands. I hear it makes them burn out faster.
There are 2 more bolts at the bottom of the lights on each side that you need to remove to pull out the assembly. Now you can start to work on your pins.
Use the existing holes in the radiator bracket next to the outer rubber hood stop.
The bottom nut and washer (on the pin) will be inside the radiator support bracket. You need to enlarged the bottom hole from the under side of the support to get the nut and washer in and use a socket to tighten the pin. I used a Dremel with a carbide cutter. Paint the exposed metal with primer or touch up paint to avoid future rust. Install your pins and finger tighten them so you can mark the holes for the hood.
Put some wet paint on the tips of the pins and it will mark the location on the hood for you.
Take your time drilling the holes. Start small and align your pins as you go. Don't drill through both inner and outer hood at the same time, the pin location changes as you drop the hood.
The inside hole must be larger. Once the holes are completed lower and latch the hood so you can start on the Chrome circles.
I also added a rubber gasket between the hood and the chrome circle.
I just took an old inner tube and cut it to fit. I left the center hole tight to help keep water out.
Align the chrome circles and dill a pilot hole for one screw. Start with a small hole until you get a hole size that will allow you to screw them in without cracking the fiberglass. Drill the rest of the holes and install the rest of the screws.
Adjust the height of the pins so the hood has just a bit of pressure to it. I made mine so I have to push the hood down just a bit to insert the pins. You can also use the rubber hood stop to add some pressure if the hood height is aligned.
The clips I used are the cotter pin type and I bent the ends of them up a bit so they wouldn't scratch the chrome circles when I take them in and out.
Make sure everything is adjusted before you put the front back on.
I think that was everything.
Oh, test drive by getting the car up over 110 MPH!!!
Hope this helps and good luck and take your time.
Here is a shot of the finished product.
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