AussieMustangGT

Well I decided that I want to lower my car, and after much reading and decision making I deciided to order the Eibach Pro kit. After reading numerous posts and noticed it not just a matter of buying springs but you need to buy additional hardware as well (so much for a quick kinda cheap mod), like camber/caster adjustments and a adjustable panhard bar.

Well I think I made my decision of the panhard bar, originally I was going to purchase a steeda one then I noticed alot of people are getting the BMR one because you can adjust it while it is on.

For the caster/camber situtation I am at a total loss would'nt have a clue what to do, there are plates, bolts, ranging from $20 to $300+

What is required to lower my car without causing me too much hassle, I got the lowering springs.

Should I get the Steeds panhard bar or the BMR one?

I ordered the alignment kit Eibach sells it was like $20 should I use that or shoud I get the Ford caster/camber bolt clevparts (kevin) sells? or should I get something else?

Is there anything else I need? For now I just want to lower the car and have the car ride decent, I will probable eventally do the entire suspension piece by piece. I was thinking if I buy the BMR panhard bar, I would just use there products for my entire suspension.

Would'nt have a clue about supension mods or lowering any help would be greatfully appreciated

ex-Galaxie500

I have not lowered my car either, but I think you might also want to look into doing the shocks at the same time as this will help the ride since I think the stock shocks are pretty stiff. Probably good to go with the company that makes your springs as well since they were probably designed to work together

Also, a bumpsteer kit might also be worth looking into as lowering the car may cause this to become more noticeable. Just google bumpsteer for information- I know Steeda makes a kit

Sorry I couldn't be of more help, I'm sure those who have lowered their cars will jump in and give advice

AussieMustangGT

Well since I have only 1 reply (thanks Brandon) ...guess I'll just go ahead and order the BMR panhard bar and use the Eibach bolt and hope for the best

Imatk

Yeah I would get the BMR... that's what I WAS going to get before I decided not to lower my car.

And yeah you'll need new shocks as well. The travel is going to be less after your car is lowered so you'll need shocks that are adjusted for that.

I was like you I wanted to do it, then found out what I REALLY needed to do for it to be right and that in combination with the embarrassingly bad roads in Los Angeles I decided it wasn't worth it.

fleasome

It would probably be just cheaper to get some really big used truck tires so the gap between your tires and wheelwells looks smaller, and buy either Stilletto Heels or larged heeled cowbow boots to make it appear that you lowered it.

But really, I hate the gap myself and am thinking seriously of doing this as well. What amount of drop with stock tire and wheel size does everyone think is best?

Gearhead

Maybe I'm just lucky, but after the installation of my Pro-Kit, my rear wheels were exactly centered. As far as the front alignment, Les Schwab only added a $20 bolt to my left front, and they say that my alignment is right on now. Perhaps you could order the adjustable Panhard bar only if you are out of alignment after the lowering? Also, I have my stock shocks, and no problems with them yet (3,600 miles).

rony1976

I don't think it's a noticeable thing (the rear being off centered and the shocks wearing out), but from what I read, the center is always off (1/4 inch to 1/2) and the ride feels much better when you put adjustables instead of the stock ones.
The Pro-Kit is on its way for me, and a set of eibach pro-alignment kit (the bolts) and the BMR Adjustable Panhard with the Panhard support.

AussieMustangGT

Rony which BMR panhard bar did you get "Tubular Adjustable Panhard Rod" or "Chrome Moly Adjustable Panhard Rod w/rod ends"?

Anybody know what the difference is? What the benifit of the "Chrome Moly Adjustable Panhard Rod w/rod ends" one?

schmitty

i just lowered mine today with eibach pro kit and it is sweet. the ride is great. stock springs. the only problem is the steering wheel is off center just a bit. i'll have lesschwab fix tomarrow

rony1976

I'm buying just the tubular. I'm not a hardcore drag racer (although I could start.. hhmm... )
I'm ordering today, hopefully I'll get them on Friday (I'm an hour away from BMR).
I have the springs at home, and the eibach bolts as well

Shea

I'd really like to hear an explanation of why some of you think you need new shocks after lowering. A shock is always a bit compressed, and it compresses at the same rate regardless of how much it is compressed.

A shock is basically just two gas chambers with a small hole separating them. It's way different than a progressive rate spring.

stanglex

I' am trying to install Eibach Pro-Kit in the shop in Europe but thay want from me vehicle alignment factory specyfications. Do you guyes know this numbers?

f1-cobra

Factory Alignment Specifications
Front caster left & right 7.1° ± 0.50°
Total/split 0° ± 0.70°

Front camber left & right -0.75° ± 0.50°
Total/split 0° ± 0.70°

Front toe
Total/split 0.10 ± 0.20°

Factory General Specifications
Front ride height 38 mm ± 8 mm (1.5 in ± 0.3 in)

Rear ride height 115 mm ± 8 mm (4.5 in ± 0.3 in)

Vehicle lean (side to side difference)
Front & rear-maximum 13 mm (0.5 in)

Dogtracking
Maximum 13 mm (0.5 in)
Clear vision (negative value is counterclockwise) 0° ± 3°

Ball joint end play
Lower ball joint-maximum 0.8 mm (1/32 in)

stanglex

You are great! Thx

RedDragon777

anyone know if their is a company that sells a kit that does NOT level out the car...i love the stance the car has and do not want to loose it just lower the car without having to go coil-over

Cheese302

its not necessarily the travel that is the problem. The shocks are valved differntly for the lowered car. this is done to make up for the stiffer spring. If the shocks are valved the same they will not dampen as much, ther by wearing out faster. I know in vw's if you leave the stock shocks in, after a few days it gets bouncy as heck