Another GT500 chin spoiler install
7/29/07 | 05:38 AM
#61
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Cobra R Member
Joined: January 15, 2007
Posts: 1,581
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From: Hampton Roads, VA
Nice! Hope mine comes out that good. At least I know I'm on the right track. Why did you have to cut the 90*? Mine has a perfect width. What year was the spoiler for? Mine is for an 08 model. Also did you refinish ie: paint? If so what did you use? Once again very nice job, my hats off to you. BTW your are also correct, for the price, $50.00 a whole lot nicer to the wallet, rather than $200.00 +, But mostly the self satisfaction is even nicer.
--90* pieces were cut to allow the spoiler to better fit in the stock GT fenderwell (the fenderwells are different between the GT500 and the GT)
--Mine was for an 07, but I seriously doubt the 08 is different than the 07
--I did not paint the chin spoiler...one of the reasons that I liked it was that it was textured plastic
7/29/07 | 06:50 PM
#62
Cobra Member
Joined: August 16, 2005
Posts: 1,079
Likes: 0
From: Central Coast, CA
Okay, I understand the 1" tape along the contour of the chin and standing off 1" from the wheel wheel (to form the 'L'). So I take it that rather than cutting out a 1" width slot for the honeycomb to drop into, you removed all that material behind your cut line to the strip of 1" tape you laid down? It sounds like you had no problem making the vertical lip at the back fit up flush with the front end of the wheel arch? Everyone else that has done this installation has a gap there. Did you?
PS - is that a little buckle I see at centerline of the bottom relief?
PS - is that a little buckle I see at centerline of the bottom relief?
Take 1 inch wide tape (use as a guide for cutting), and following the contour of the bottom edge of the bumper cover, attach it to the underside of the bumper cover between the wheel well opening and the center notch. At the wheel well opening, attach another 1 inch piece at the end of the bumper cover (creating a curved "L").
Starting an inch in from the wheel well opening (using utility knife or drywall saw) make the long cut to just inside (1 inch) the center notch of the bumper cover.
This will allow the "honeycomb" section to pass through the center of the cover.
When finished with that cut, make the short cut (approximately 1.5 inches long and an inch in from the wheel well opening) to complete the "L". You do not need to remove the bumper cover material that remains. I attached it to one of the rear mounting points to provide additional stregth.
The splitter will slide into the cutout area and its tabs will overlap the "lip" created by the cuts.
Use the top wheel well mounting point (for the 90 degree wings) and the four mounting points on the underside back edge of the bumper cover. Two of the splitters mounting holes can be used on each side of the center notch. Additional mounting points can be drilled on each side near the beginning of the notch. This will bring the bumper cover bottom edge flush against the splitter. I also drilled the splitter "wings" so that the factory mounting points could be used.
Cover the exposed center mounting holes and honeycomb with black bodyside molding and that about does it.
Clean the surface well and consider a touch of "RTV" to provide additional grip for the molding.
Starting an inch in from the wheel well opening (using utility knife or drywall saw) make the long cut to just inside (1 inch) the center notch of the bumper cover.
This will allow the "honeycomb" section to pass through the center of the cover.
When finished with that cut, make the short cut (approximately 1.5 inches long and an inch in from the wheel well opening) to complete the "L". You do not need to remove the bumper cover material that remains. I attached it to one of the rear mounting points to provide additional stregth.
The splitter will slide into the cutout area and its tabs will overlap the "lip" created by the cuts.
Use the top wheel well mounting point (for the 90 degree wings) and the four mounting points on the underside back edge of the bumper cover. Two of the splitters mounting holes can be used on each side of the center notch. Additional mounting points can be drilled on each side near the beginning of the notch. This will bring the bumper cover bottom edge flush against the splitter. I also drilled the splitter "wings" so that the factory mounting points could be used.
Cover the exposed center mounting holes and honeycomb with black bodyside molding and that about does it.
Clean the surface well and consider a touch of "RTV" to provide additional grip for the molding.
7/29/07 | 11:30 PM
#63
Member
Joined: July 1, 2007
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
I finished mine today and was happy with the end finish. The 90* I wound up leaving off though, because no way no how were they going to conform to the wheel well opening and sit flush. So I opted to delete them and keep an open finish. It does look good though and the price....can't beat it. $67.00 including ss/hardware! Will post pics as soon as I can get them uploaded.
7/30/07 | 02:26 PM
#64
Member
Joined: November 22, 2005
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Okay, I understand the 1" tape along the contour of the chin and standing off 1" from the wheel wheel (to form the 'L'). So I take it that rather than cutting out a 1" width slot for the honeycomb to drop into, you removed all that material behind your cut line to the strip of 1" tape you laid down? It sounds like you had no problem making the vertical lip at the back fit up flush with the front end of the wheel arch? Everyone else that has done this installation has a gap there. Did you?
PS - is that a little buckle I see at centerline of the bottom relief?
PS - is that a little buckle I see at centerline of the bottom relief?
There was no signifigant gap on the 90 degree pieces.
The "buckle" of white you see at the center is where I bolted through to add some support to the middle of the splitter.
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