Another GT500 chin spoiler install
#42
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If you look at the pic below, you can see where my sand marks stopped (just in front of the hole one the left that has the plug). I lined up the chin spoiler so that the edge of the sanded area was in line with the edge of the GT bumper "valence".
#43
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Thanks again.
Looking at the actual installed part on the GT500, where you have positioned it on your valence looks to be exactly right.
Looking at the actual installed part on the GT500, where you have positioned it on your valence looks to be exactly right.
I don't remember the exact distance, but eyeballing it, it was probably about 3/4".
If you look at the pic below, you can see where my sand marks stopped (just in front of the hole one the left that has the plug). I lined up the chin spoiler so that the edge of the sanded area was in line with the edge of the GT bumper "valence".
If you look at the pic below, you can see where my sand marks stopped (just in front of the hole one the left that has the plug). I lined up the chin spoiler so that the edge of the sanded area was in line with the edge of the GT bumper "valence".
#44
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After driving the car for the past week, I can say that it looks AWESOME, MEAN, and AGGRESSIVE. I LOVE the way it looks compared to the others. Maybe it's because I haven't seen too many of them on cars, but I truely think it's because of the indentations in the front.
The only downside is that the 90* pieces attract dust in front of them on the chin spoiler itself, because of the "dead" space and the caulking. Nothing to worry about, especially since the car is cleaned up constantly anyway.
#47
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The cervini's one does not have the indentations in the front, and REQUIRES PAINTING.
For $55 and a few hours a work, I saved $200 on the chin spoiler and another $100-$150 for painting.
It would take me a lot more hours working my job to make that money.
#49
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But, I do think that the real GT500 chin spoiler looks MUCH better than the cervini's or legend due to the indentations in the front
#50
It looks great, good job! I think the GT500 splitter is the best choice.
I've owned these splitters, and the original GT500 version was made better, seemed much more advanced rigid and durable, of better materials, has a nicer textured finish, and had the best styling. On top of all this it was way cheaper. As you have said, it looked less boxy (like those 70's era Can-Am racers) on the car than either the Legend or the Cervini's model, especially when viewed from head on.
I mounted one on my GT fascia before I changed to the GT500 bumper. I did not cut as much material off the top edge, and I think because I pulled it more forward on the fascia that I was able to get rid of almost all of the side gap. I did not have to cut the ends off. I did not cut as much off the sides of the center riser as you did, and this allowed me to fill the center slot in the fascia up from side to side without a gap.
I've owned these splitters, and the original GT500 version was made better, seemed much more advanced rigid and durable, of better materials, has a nicer textured finish, and had the best styling. On top of all this it was way cheaper. As you have said, it looked less boxy (like those 70's era Can-Am racers) on the car than either the Legend or the Cervini's model, especially when viewed from head on.
I mounted one on my GT fascia before I changed to the GT500 bumper. I did not cut as much material off the top edge, and I think because I pulled it more forward on the fascia that I was able to get rid of almost all of the side gap. I did not have to cut the ends off. I did not cut as much off the sides of the center riser as you did, and this allowed me to fill the center slot in the fascia up from side to side without a gap.
#51
Well I worked on mine for about 3 hours yesterday and that was fabbing a alum piece for the mid so it's full.. just have to think if I'm going to paint it or leave it the alum I'll post some installed pics later today
#52
Sorry it took so long took about another hour to get it right I added some car weather striping to the bottom edges and for the gap in the fender...Blends allot better without the flash can hardly see it all in all glad I did it, thinking of adding some alum brake vents in the webbed bottom.
#53
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Sorry it took so long took about another hour to get it right I added some car weather striping to the bottom edges and for the gap in the fender...Blends allot better without the flash can hardly see it all in all glad I did it, thinking of adding some alum brake vents in the webbed bottom.
#54
Another GT500 Splitter
No cutting of the splitter, just the bumper cover. I used 1 inch molding to cover the splitter mounting holes and closeout the center "honeycomb".
Easy enough after you get over the cutting.
Easy enough after you get over the cutting.
#55
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Looks good. I like the molding in the center.
But, I must ask...why did you decide to cut the bumper instead of the the chin spoiler.
But, I must ask...why did you decide to cut the bumper instead of the the chin spoiler.
#56
No matter which method, I would be modifying the bumper cover. That and maintaining the rigidity of the splitter were my determining factors.
If it was a disaster, a different style bumper cover was in my future.
Regardless, for $60 you can't beat it! I haven't seen a better looking aftermarket splitter yet.
If it was a disaster, a different style bumper cover was in my future.
Regardless, for $60 you can't beat it! I haven't seen a better looking aftermarket splitter yet.
#57
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Makes sense. I had a similar thought...that you can get a factory take-off for a couple hundred bucks if needed.
I agree 150%.
I agree 150%.
#58
I am looking to do the same mod very soon and was wondering what did you have to cut off the bumper cover.
Looks Great BTW
#59
Take 1 inch wide tape (use as a guide for cutting), and following the contour of the bottom edge of the bumper cover, attach it to the underside of the bumper cover between the wheel well opening and the center notch. At the wheel well opening, attach another 1 inch piece at the end of the bumper cover (creating a curved "L").
Starting an inch in from the wheel well opening (using utility knife or drywall saw) make the long cut to just inside (1 inch) the center notch of the bumper cover.
This will allow the "honeycomb" section to pass through the center of the cover.
When finished with that cut, make the short cut (approximately 1.5 inches long and an inch in from the wheel well opening) to complete the "L". You do not need to remove the bumper cover material that remains. I attached it to one of the rear mounting points to provide additional stregth.
The splitter will slide into the cutout area and its tabs will overlap the "lip" created by the cuts.
Use the top wheel well mounting point (for the 90 degree wings) and the four mounting points on the underside back edge of the bumper cover. Two of the splitters mounting holes can be used on each side of the center notch. Additional mounting points can be drilled on each side near the beginning of the notch. This will bring the bumper cover bottom edge flush against the splitter. I also drilled the splitter "wings" so that the factory mounting points could be used.
Cover the exposed center mounting holes and honeycomb with black bodyside molding and that about does it.
Clean the surface well and consider a touch of "RTV" to provide additional grip for the molding.
Starting an inch in from the wheel well opening (using utility knife or drywall saw) make the long cut to just inside (1 inch) the center notch of the bumper cover.
This will allow the "honeycomb" section to pass through the center of the cover.
When finished with that cut, make the short cut (approximately 1.5 inches long and an inch in from the wheel well opening) to complete the "L". You do not need to remove the bumper cover material that remains. I attached it to one of the rear mounting points to provide additional stregth.
The splitter will slide into the cutout area and its tabs will overlap the "lip" created by the cuts.
Use the top wheel well mounting point (for the 90 degree wings) and the four mounting points on the underside back edge of the bumper cover. Two of the splitters mounting holes can be used on each side of the center notch. Additional mounting points can be drilled on each side near the beginning of the notch. This will bring the bumper cover bottom edge flush against the splitter. I also drilled the splitter "wings" so that the factory mounting points could be used.
Cover the exposed center mounting holes and honeycomb with black bodyside molding and that about does it.
Clean the surface well and consider a touch of "RTV" to provide additional grip for the molding.
#60
chin up!
Nice! Hope mine comes out that good. At least I know I'm on the right track. Why did you have to cut the 90*? Mine has a perfect width. What year was the spoiler for? Mine is for an 08 model. Also did you refinish ie: paint? If so what did you use? Once again very nice job, my hats off to you. BTW your are also correct, for the price, $50.00 a whole lot nicer to the wallet, rather than $200.00 +, But mostly the self satisfaction is even nicer.