garyb900

I know there has been a lot of discussion on these two differentials and excuse me if this has been gone over before but I couldn't find it so if it's out there let me know the thread it's in.

What is the difference between the Detroit True Trac and the Ford Racing T-lok? Other than the cost, I know the Detroit TT is more.
What are the pros & cons of each? I saw a mention that the TT splits the traction 70/30 in turns so there isn't "scuff", does the FRTLok do that also?

A friend of mine said that if I get the T-lok I would have problems in slow turns like in parking lots because both wheels would want to spin at the same speed and that it is really only for people that want straight line launches at the track.

Thanks for any advise.

1trickpony

I never had any trouble with a t-lok in slow turns on my 94 GT. I think the 7.5 inch t-lok and 8.8 are basically the same. I've never had a true trac but I did a little research. I wouldn't expect a big difference at this power level. About the only thing I saw was the T-lok uses a cluth that can burn out and the True trac does not. The Tru trac might last longer. Hope this helps.

scrming

I've got the t-lok... I've never had any problom with tight turns... no clunk, jumping... nothing.. always smooth... yes, the clutch will eventually wear out... but it can be easily rebuilt for somthing like $50... I've been abusing mine since August (10,000 miles)... I've also have been know to put 384 pounds of torque through it... LOL! Good unit for the price... and it held up pretty good... no personal experience with the TT... I may someday... LOL!

garyb900

Thanks for the help guys.
I will only be using it for a daily driver and won't be doing any hard driving with it other than the normal stomping on the pedal on the street.
I'm waiting on a C&L and X-cal2 from Doug right now but I plan on putting in 3.73 gears and the t-lok in early next year.
Sounds like for the price I can go with the t-lok with no worries.

rygenstormlocke

Yep, the TT is if you plan for 400+ RWHP, but the TLOK is good for power adders too. For mid-level modding, like tuners, CAI, exhaust and daily driver, your best bet is to go with TLOK as it is a lot less.

For me, some day I will probably break the gears in mine, on that day, I will gladly drop the 7.5 and swap it with a 8.8 from a GT. So my mission is to see what this thing can handle, after I put a girdle and panhard relocation bracket on it of course.

Excepcion13

The T-Lok is still an LSD, so unlike a locker, it will not fight you when you begin to turn. I think your friend may have been referring to a locker, but I could be mistaken.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with the T-Lok, and it is about $130 cheaper than the TT. I bought a TT because I liked the idea of no clutch plates, smooth torque distribution, and more than enough strength for my needs. I did not want to have to go to an 8.8 rear if I built some serious power in my machine, so I decided on the TT and a girdle. More than likely, going to those lengths was unnecessary. But I will never know, because it is doubtful that I will ever break it! And if I do, then I am pushing some SERIOUS power.

If I am not mistaken, the GT comes with a Trac-Lok, and some of the GT owners are pushing 400+ HP with theirs without an upgrade. They have an 8.8, though.

rygenstormlocke

You are correct, the GT 8.8 comes with a TLOK standard, and they are pushing 400 RWHP with stock components. Also, the TLOK in the GT is of the same design as the one for the 7.5.

garyb900

That's exactly what I needed to hear. I got worried when my friend mentioned the turning problem but as you said he must have been thinking I was talking about a locker when I said t-lok.Thanks.
For what I need the t-lok is right.
Now I just have to save the cash up to pay for it.
Come on Christmas bonus!

hamidlmt

I'll be going with a t-lok, when I do get around to upgrading. Probably early next year.

rygenstormlocke

You have a lot of patience, I personally am trying to figure out my mods before the end of 05.

hamidlmt

Rygen... when, and if, you ever get done.. your car is gonna be a monster!

Gearhead

After having my Detroit TrueTrac installed now for about 1,500 miles of driving through dry, rain, and snow, I can only say it is well worth the money! My experience with limited slip rear ends in my 4x4 rigs is that they really have limited added traction in ice and snow, as the name implies. The TrueTrac keeps both wheels turning in the very sloppy & slick stuff. Also, it is superior in wet-road handling as it has no propensity to force the rear wheels to turn at the same rate when that might cost you the extra traction you need to get around the corner. As far as longevity, I have always felt that about 30,000 miles is the wear-out time for most limited slips, and I just don't want to break into my rear end that often.
I would recommend that if you plan to keep the car at least 10 years, pay the extra money now. It would be cheaper in the long run. In addition, I feel that TrueTrac has already helped me avoid a slide-out on a corner I hit way too hot in the pouring rain, and that in itself has paid for the purchase cost.

hamidlmt

So, is Ford Racing's t-lok going to give out around 30,000 miles?

Zodiac

Just a thought, but believeing the Ford T-lok will only last 30K miles is saying that every car its been used in has had its rearend repaired at 30K miles.. this just isnt true. It would mean that even the new GTs, albeit using an 8.8, would on principle be replacing the LSD alone every 30K miles.... doesnt seem right to me.

scrming

Agreed... I've had a number of LSD units over the years.. none of them ever needed to be repair... my last one was an 02 GT with well over 30K miles.. had about 60K when I got rid of it... And I doubt Ford would put some thing like a T-Lok in that is going to need to replaced before the base 3yr/36,000 mile warranty is up...

rygenstormlocke

Thanks man.

Gearhead

Limited Slip rear ends work very well for the first 30,000 miles, then they work less well. The older they get, the less force they will apply to the wheel with more traction. They don't "break"; they just fade away.