traction-lok conversion for 7.5 V6
2/23/06, 05:44 PM
#1
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
http://www.powertrax.com/noslip.htm Has anybody had any experience with this product? It installs in your carrier without gear removal for two wheel traction street use.
2/23/06, 06:08 PM
#3
Cobra R Member
Join Date: September 21, 2004
Posts: 1,664
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ya, i did one about 3 months ago. Broke a bearing and 2 teeth on one side of the gear after the first time i tried to launch.
POS in my opinion. I only paid like $200 for it, so its not a HUGE loss, but still sucks ya know?
POS in my opinion. I only paid like $200 for it, so its not a HUGE loss, but still sucks ya know?
2/28/06, 10:44 AM
#4
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Fazm @ February 23, 2006, 5:11 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Ya, i did one about 3 months ago. Broke a bearing and 2 teeth on one side of the gear after the first time i tried to launch.
POS in my opinion. I only paid like $200 for it, so its not a HUGE loss, but still sucks ya know?
[/b][/quote]
Did you install it ? or have it done ? Sounds like somebody screwed up.
Ya, i did one about 3 months ago. Broke a bearing and 2 teeth on one side of the gear after the first time i tried to launch.
POS in my opinion. I only paid like $200 for it, so its not a HUGE loss, but still sucks ya know?
[/b][/quote]
Did you install it ? or have it done ? Sounds like somebody screwed up.
2/28/06, 11:35 AM
#5
Cobra R Member
Join Date: September 21, 2004
Posts: 1,664
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I installed it and im an ase certified technician. Before i installed it i noticed the pinion bolt was a slightly different diamater (like 4 thousandths) and didnt want to go through the carrier as well. I think this ended up being the problem as it was most likely rubbing against the race on the passenger side. When i pulled it back apart the race was broken and jammed inside the teeth on the passenger side and cracked them.
The car drove fine for weeks until i tried to do a launch in it. Could have been not broken in yet, or a number of things. But it does do a lot of clicking when you turn, so if noise bothers you, do not get this product. As it only uses dual style springs to allow for the teeth to overlap each other in turns.
The car drove fine for weeks until i tried to do a launch in it. Could have been not broken in yet, or a number of things. But it does do a lot of clicking when you turn, so if noise bothers you, do not get this product. As it only uses dual style springs to allow for the teeth to overlap each other in turns.
3/1/06, 01:43 AM
#6
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Fazm @ February 28, 2006, 10:38 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
I installed it and im an ase certified technician. Before i installed it i noticed the pinion bolt was a slightly different diamater (like 4 thousandths) and didnt want to go through the carrier as well. I think this ended up being the problem as it was most likely rubbing against the race on the passenger side. When i pulled it back apart the race was broken and jammed inside the teeth on the passenger side and cracked them.
The car drove fine for weeks until i tried to do a launch in it. Could have been not broken in yet, or a number of things. But it does do a lot of clicking when you turn, so if noise bothers you, do not get this product. As it only uses dual style springs to allow for the teeth to overlap each other in turns.
[/b][/quote]
Did you use the no-slip or the lock-right? I`m seriously considering the No-slip, it is suppose to be quiet and I`m not really a tire burner!
I installed it and im an ase certified technician. Before i installed it i noticed the pinion bolt was a slightly different diamater (like 4 thousandths) and didnt want to go through the carrier as well. I think this ended up being the problem as it was most likely rubbing against the race on the passenger side. When i pulled it back apart the race was broken and jammed inside the teeth on the passenger side and cracked them.
The car drove fine for weeks until i tried to do a launch in it. Could have been not broken in yet, or a number of things. But it does do a lot of clicking when you turn, so if noise bothers you, do not get this product. As it only uses dual style springs to allow for the teeth to overlap each other in turns.
[/b][/quote]
Did you use the no-slip or the lock-right? I`m seriously considering the No-slip, it is suppose to be quiet and I`m not really a tire burner!
3/1/06, 06:51 AM
#7
Team Mustang Source
I've talked to two different guys that tried this product. Both told me it was total junk, and both ended up ripping it out and getting a normal type posi unit.
3/2/06, 01:41 PM
#10
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the input, I`m probably more confused with the mixed advice. Will do more research. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/headscratch.gif[/img]
3/2/06, 06:10 PM
#11
Cobra R Member
Join Date: September 21, 2004
Posts: 1,664
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i-70. Id suggest if you can do it yourself, go for it, just save the old parts. Cant hurt to try? But if you are going to have to pay someone to install it, i would stay clear.
3/9/06, 01:36 PM
#14
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(LimeZoSo @ March 9, 2006, 11:21 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
So reading over these forums, I get mixed reviews. Which is better, T-Lok or TrueTrac? Is the Ford Racing one just as good?
[/b][/quote]
The T-Lok is just fine for 99% of the population. As long as you don't plan a major power adder AND don't plan to launch hard at the track, you'll be fine with a T-Lok.
So reading over these forums, I get mixed reviews. Which is better, T-Lok or TrueTrac? Is the Ford Racing one just as good?
[/b][/quote]
The T-Lok is just fine for 99% of the population. As long as you don't plan a major power adder AND don't plan to launch hard at the track, you'll be fine with a T-Lok.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post