V6 Performance Mods 2005+ Mustang V6 Performance and Technical Information

Detroit TrueTrac

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11/7/05, 10:51 PM
  #1  
Bullitt Member
Thread Starter
 
Gearhead's Avatar
 
Join Date: July 7, 2005
Location: Washington
Posts: 459
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
I just had my Detroit TrueTrac installed by my mechanic. Actual labor time was about 3 hours, and it went smoothly. It works as advertised, in that it behaves as if it isn't there until you need it. Lock-up of both rear wheels is a fraction of a second, almost unperceivable. It is perfect!
Old 11/8/05, 07:54 AM
  #2  
Team Mustang Source
 
Torch_Vert's Avatar
 
Join Date: June 22, 2005
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 1,793
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 2 Posts
Originally posted by Gearhead@November 8, 2005, 12:54 AM
I just had my Detroit TrueTrac installed by my mechanic. Actual labor time was about 3 hours, and it went smoothly. It works as advertised, in that it behaves as if it isn't there until you need it. Lock-up of both rear wheels is a fraction of a second, almost unperceivable. It is perfect!

This is the way I was thinking of going next Spring. Glad to hear it's working well for you
Old 11/8/05, 08:19 AM
  #3  
 
rygenstormlocke's Avatar
 
Join Date: July 4, 2005
Posts: 1,856
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally posted by Gearhead@November 8, 2005, 12:54 AM
I just had my Detroit TrueTrac installed by my mechanic. Actual labor time was about 3 hours, and it went smoothly. It works as advertised, in that it behaves as if it isn't there until you need it. Lock-up of both rear wheels is a fraction of a second, almost unperceivable. It is perfect!


Good news indeed, should definitely help your take offs. Have you had a chance to really open her up from a dead stop with it?
Old 11/8/05, 10:01 AM
  #4  
Bullitt Member
Thread Starter
 
Gearhead's Avatar
 
Join Date: July 7, 2005
Location: Washington
Posts: 459
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally posted by rygenstormlocke@November 8, 2005, 8:22 AM
Good news indeed, should definitely help your take offs. Have you had a chance to really open her up from a dead stop with it?
My mechanic wanted me to take it easy on it for the first 500 miles, and then he wants to open up the rear housing to clean things out and put fresh fluid into it. Although neither break-in period nor fluid change is recommended, I don't mind playing it on the safe side.
With that said, I did floor it in second gear on a very wet road surface, and you could feel the right rear (I think) break loose for what might have been 1/3 of a second, then both wheels kept traction without slipping. In this slimy climate here in Washington, that is really what I wanted it for mostly, as opposed to a quicker launch.
Also, my impression of this 7.5" ring and pinion is that they are very small! I do fear that those who are boosting their power outputs with Nitrous and Superchargers would be money ahead to just go out and buy an 8.8" rear end for the increased durability. With the stock output of the V6, the 7.5" should last well.
Old 11/8/05, 10:05 AM
  #5  
 
rygenstormlocke's Avatar
 
Join Date: July 4, 2005
Posts: 1,856
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally posted by Gearhead@November 8, 2005, 12:04 PM
My mechanic wanted me to take it easy on it for the first 500 miles, and then he wants to open up the rear housing to clean things out and put fresh fluid into it. Although neither break-in period nor fluid change is recommended, I don't mind playing it on the safe side.
With that said, I did floor it in second gear on a very wet road surface, and you could feel the right rear (I think) break loose for what might have been 1/3 of a second, then both wheels kept traction without slipping. In this slimy climate here in Washington, that is really what I wanted it for mostly, as opposed to a quicker launch.
Also, my impression of this 7.5" ring and pinion is that they are very small! I do fear that those who are boosting their power outputs with Nitrous and Superchargers would be money ahead to just go out and buy an 8.8" rear end for the increased durability. With the stock output of the V6, the 7.5" should last well.

Thank you for this!!! You touched on something I really wanted to get input on was performance on wet pavement and/or snow. This is my DD, and I live in the DC metro area, and wanted to have the extra traction during snow season.

Thanks.
Old 11/8/05, 02:38 PM
  #6  
Cobra Member
 
scrming's Avatar
 
Join Date: July 28, 2005
Posts: 1,163
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally posted by Gearhead@November 8, 2005, 12:04 PM
My mechanic wanted me to take it easy on it for the first 500 miles, and then he wants to open up the rear housing to clean things out and put fresh fluid into it. Although neither break-in period nor fluid change is recommended, I don't mind playing it on the safe side.
With that said, I did floor it in second gear on a very wet road surface, and you could feel the right rear (I think) break loose for what might have been 1/3 of a second, then both wheels kept traction without slipping. In this slimy climate here in Washington, that is really what I wanted it for mostly, as opposed to a quicker launch.
Also, my impression of this 7.5" ring and pinion is that they are very small! I do fear that those who are boosting their power outputs with Nitrous and Superchargers would be money ahead to just go out and buy an 8.8" rear end for the increased durability. With the stock output of the V6, the 7.5" should last well.

very cool...

yep, my guy did the same thing...take it easy for a bit, come back in, change fluid and look things over... Also recommed that I change fluid again after 10,000 and then get back on the regular shedule... I'll probably take the car in in a couple of weeks... be interesting to see if things look ok... LOL!

The only person I know that's actually had problems with the 7.5 has been Mike @ powerhouse... that was with crazy power, manual tranny, very sticky drag radials (almost slicks?) and very hard launches... I think even with a power adder the 7.5 will hold up for us guys with the automatics and street tires... That's one advantage of the automatic is you can preload the drive train so launching isn't such a shock to thing.. and unless you change out TC you'll be launching somewhere under 2200RPM.. not 4000! LOL! . I still plan on adding a girdle next spring... just for good measure...
Old 11/8/05, 09:01 PM
  #7  
Team Mustang Source
 
yur1279's Avatar
 
Join Date: April 6, 2004
Posts: 873
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
how does this t-loc compare to the ford racing one?
Old 11/8/05, 09:12 PM
  #8  
 
rygenstormlocke's Avatar
 
Join Date: July 4, 2005
Posts: 1,856
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally posted by yur1279@November 8, 2005, 11:04 PM
how does this t-loc compare to the ford racing one?

It is supposed to be significantly stronger than the FR, but so is the cost. So if you are looking for mad HP then the Detroit is the way to go. I went the FR route because my HP goals are in the 300s.
Old 11/8/05, 10:21 PM
  #9  
Team Mustang Source
 
yur1279's Avatar
 
Join Date: April 6, 2004
Posts: 873
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
ok, i'll be safe then with the FR t-loc and 7.73 gears. I'm not looking to exceed 300hp.
Old 11/8/05, 11:17 PM
  #10  
MSP
Banned
 
MSP's Avatar
 
Join Date: September 19, 2005
Posts: 1,897
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally posted by rygenstormlocke@November 8, 2005, 8:15 PM
It is supposed to be significantly stronger than the FR, but so is the cost. So if you are looking for mad HP then the Detroit is the way to go. I went the FR route because my HP goals are in the 300s.
The FRPP T-Lok is a good starter.. The motivation to be, to outgrow it! But keep in mind, there is no way to break a FRPP T-LOK on street tires.. You will spin the tires before you break it.. But in the case of 1/4mile racing, nd your putting out some good TQ numbers, on ET Streets or slicks, then this is where you will have to be carefull.. But street tires wont do it at all..
Old 11/9/05, 12:00 PM
  #11  
Cobra R Member
 
Fazm's Avatar
 
Join Date: September 21, 2004
Posts: 1,664
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
ok, i'll be safe then with the FR t-loc and 7.73 gears. I'm not looking to exceed 300hp.
7.73? wowzers lol just messing

ya 3.73s would be good if ur not goin near the 350+ range
Old 11/9/05, 01:58 PM
  #12  
Team Mustang Source
 
yur1279's Avatar
 
Join Date: April 6, 2004
Posts: 873
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
HA HA, yes 3.73's, not 7's, darn...
Old 11/9/05, 07:10 PM
  #13  
 
rygenstormlocke's Avatar
 
Join Date: July 4, 2005
Posts: 1,856
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally posted by MSP@November 9, 2005, 1:20 AM
The FRPP T-Lok is a good starter.. The motivation to be, to outgrow it! But keep in mind, there is no way to break a FRPP T-LOK on street tires.. You will spin the tires before you break it.. But in the case of 1/4mile racing, nd your putting out some good TQ numbers, on ET Streets or slicks, then this is where you will have to be carefull.. But street tires wont do it at all..

Yep, I will be happy when I snap it!!! That means my 1/4 mile times are kick azz!!! If that happens, I will be more than happy to put in a stronger part and/or put a 8.8 in it. But.....we are talking some killer Hp to break it.
Old 12/5/05, 05:08 PM
  #14  
Bullitt Member
Thread Starter
 
Gearhead's Avatar
 
Join Date: July 7, 2005
Location: Washington
Posts: 459
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
After 1,150 miles, my mechanic changed the fluid in my differential, with no shavings, and with only slight fluid discoloration (what I would call a normal amount). During the original installation, my mechanic ordered two quarts of the synthetic gear oil from NAPA, but it came with the friction modifier already blended. Detroit TrueTrac recommends the same fluid the manufacturer recommends for the stock rear-end, so that would be without the friction modifier. I really don't think it made any wear difference to the gears over just 1,150 miles, but for the long-haul, it sounded abrasive. The new fluid in it now is Mobil 1 75W-140 Synthetic Gear Oil, WITHOUT friction modifier.
My impression of driving the car in the snow is absolutely wonderful! This TrueTrac has made my car into some sort of "Santa’s Red Sleigh", with six miniature reindeer (not eight, because my engine isn’t a V8). On ice and snow, this new Mustang is not at all like the old Mustang, and that is a good thing.
Another comment on adverse traction handling:
On a rain soaked road, I over-cooked a 270 degree sweeper right turn, and did a four-wheel drift sideways for about 1.5 seconds. The car neither fish-tailed out, nor did it plow. It just slide sideways and nothing else; absolutely incredible! I guess my Eibach front & rear anti-sway bars are set just right (with the front anti-sway bar on the softest setting). This is the best handling car that I have ever owned!
Old 12/5/05, 05:13 PM
  #15  
 
rygenstormlocke's Avatar
 
Join Date: July 4, 2005
Posts: 1,856
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally posted by Gearhead@December 5, 2005, 7:11 PM
After 1,150 miles, my mechanic changed the fluid in my differential, with no shavings, and with only slight fluid discoloration (what I would call a normal amount). During the original installation, my mechanic ordered two quarts of the synthetic gear oil from NAPA, but it came with the friction modifier already blended. Detroit TrueTrac recommends the same fluid the manufacturer recommends for the stock rear-end, so that would be without the friction modifier. I really don't think it made any wear difference to the gears over just 1,150 miles, but for the long-haul, it sounded abrasive. The new fluid in it now is Mobil 1 75W-140 Synthetic Gear Oil, WITHOUT friction modifier.
My impression of driving the car in the snow is absolutely wonderful! This TrueTrac has made my car into some sort of "Santa’s Red Sleigh", with six miniature reindeer (not eight, because my engine isn’t a V8). On ice and snow, this new Mustang is not at all like the old Mustang, and that is a good thing.
Another comment on adverse traction handling:
On a rain soaked road, I over-cooked a 270 degree sweeper right turn, and did a four-wheel drift sideways for about 1.5 seconds. The car neither fish-tailed out, nor did it plow. It just slide sideways and nothing else; absolutely incredible! I guess my Eibach front & rear anti-sway bars are set just right (with the front anti-sway bar on the softest setting). This is the best handling car that I have ever owned!

Great news on the handling, thanks for posting this!!!!! I got a chance to test mine in the snow today, not heavy snow just a dusting on the road, lot of wet pavement. I was suprised by the handling as well, even around corners...handles way better than my old 5.0.
Old 12/5/05, 05:21 PM
  #16  
Cobra Member
 
scrming's Avatar
 
Join Date: July 28, 2005
Posts: 1,163
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally posted by Gearhead@December 5, 2005, 7:11 PM
After 1,150 miles, my mechanic changed the fluid in my differential, with no shavings, and with only slight fluid discoloration (what I would call a normal amount). During the original installation, my mechanic ordered two quarts of the synthetic gear oil from NAPA, but it came with the friction modifier already blended. Detroit TrueTrac recommends the same fluid the manufacturer recommends for the stock rear-end, so that would be without the friction modifier. I really don't think it made any wear difference to the gears over just 1,150 miles, but for the long-haul, it sounded abrasive. The new fluid in it now is Mobil 1 75W-140 Synthetic Gear Oil, WITHOUT friction modifier.
My impression of driving the car in the snow is absolutely wonderful! This TrueTrac has made my car into some sort of "Santa’s Red Sleigh", with six miniature reindeer (not eight, because my engine isn’t a V8). On ice and snow, this new Mustang is not at all like the old Mustang, and that is a good thing.
Another comment on adverse traction handling:
On a rain soaked road, I over-cooked a 270 degree sweeper right turn, and did a four-wheel drift sideways for about 1.5 seconds. The car neither fish-tailed out, nor did it plow. It just slide sideways and nothing else; absolutely incredible! I guess my Eibach front & rear anti-sway bars are set just right (with the front anti-sway bar on the softest setting). This is the best handling car that I have ever owned!
Great report... couple of questions...
How does the car feel when you mkae a tight turn on dry level pavement? Does it feel like it's binding or racheting at all?
Old 12/5/05, 05:52 PM
  #17  
Bullitt Member
Thread Starter
 
Gearhead's Avatar
 
Join Date: July 7, 2005
Location: Washington
Posts: 459
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally posted by scrming@December 5, 2005, 5:24 PM
Great report... couple of questions...
How does the car feel when you mkae a tight turn on dry level pavement? Does it feel like it's binding or racheting at all?
Not in the least!
Old 12/5/05, 06:10 PM
  #18  
Mach 1 Member
 
scotts05custom's Avatar
 
Join Date: July 10, 2005
Posts: 604
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
what is the price difference between the fr t-lok
Old 12/5/05, 10:52 PM
  #19  
Bullitt Member
Thread Starter
 
Gearhead's Avatar
 
Join Date: July 7, 2005
Location: Washington
Posts: 459
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
I did not get internet pricing on my parts. They came from Randy Ring & Pinion, and Randy's Exhaust installed it for me. FYI, these "Randys" are not the same "Randy". I paid $525 for the TrueTrac, and the Limited Slip would have been $300. Randy's exhaust did only charge me $160 labor for installation, which was very good I think.
Old 12/6/05, 10:39 AM
  #20  
Bullitt Member
 
Excepcion13's Avatar
 
Join Date: October 14, 2005
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally posted by Gearhead@December 5, 2005, 8:11 PM
During the original installation, my mechanic ordered two quarts of the synthetic gear oil from NAPA, but it came with the friction modifier already blended. Detroit TrueTrac recommends the same fluid the manufacturer recommends for the stock rear-end, so that would be without the friction modifier. I really don't think it made any wear difference to the gears over just 1,150 miles, but for the long-haul, it sounded abrasive. The new fluid in it now is Mobil 1 75W-140 Synthetic Gear Oil, WITHOUT friction modifier.

My impression of driving the car in the snow is absolutely wonderful! This TrueTrac has made my car into some sort of "Santa’s Red Sleigh", with six miniature reindeer (not eight, because my engine isn’t a V8). On ice and snow, this new Mustang is not at all like the old Mustang, and that is a good thing.


I bought the Redline 75W90 all-synthetic for my TT that goes on FRIDAY!!! The language on the bottle is a little confusing, but I am pretty sure that it does not come with friction modifier additives.

Good news about your car's handling in the snow!!! Better handling was the main reason I ordered mine as well. Although I KNOW that I will be squealing some tires...

Question, though: I thought that an open differential still split torque between the wheels? I hate the idea of driving around with all of the power going to my right wheel.

If anyone is going to buy a Detroit TT, Drive Train Specialists have a great price on them. Gearhead got a great price on the install but the price of the TT was high IMO. It equaled out for him, but might not for you...


Quick Reply: Detroit TrueTrac



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:18 PM.