BillyDaKid

Folks, this is a test of anger management.
If you replace your clutch, be prepared to bleed the clutch release slave cylinder. For you who don't know how, just before cranking the engine and after all is done, Go to the parts store and buy a 1 3/8" rubber expansion plug(freeze plug.) Drill a 3/16"(or 1/8") hole all the way through it close to the nut you tighten to expand it. Then drill a 1/4" hole in the top metal washer. Put it in the master cylinder fill neck and gently tighten it until snug. Using a Mity-Vac(harbor freight has a cheap one.) put the pointy adapter in the hole in the rubber plug tightly so it doesn't leak. Pull 20lbs vacuum and make sure the seal doesn't leak down. Hold the vacuum for 2-3 minutes. remove plug, fill to "MAX" line with dot 3 brake fluid. Then before starting engine, pump the pedal 10-15 times. Start engine in neutral and shift into gear if you feel clutch resistance. If not, pump the pedal a few more times and crank while holding the pedal down then shift into gear. Pedal pressure will increase as you drive/use it.
These are "do it at your own risk" instructions.
It worked great for me, hope you have the same results.
BillyDaKid

ford4v429

vacuum bleeding was only way I could get pedal...if you want to get it a little better, you can get the very last of the air out by parking on the steepest hill you can, drivers side high, nose a little down... bleed with vacuum one more time, thats it

if you look at the slave, you can see why- the line drops down exiting the bellhousing, causing a trap... with nose a little bit down and drivers side high as you can get it, any air bubbles will float into the line instead of that darn high point in the line- definitely a stupid setup... the silly bleeder on the line is about useless too, just one more place to collect a tiny air bubble...
I think even a stainless line would have the same trap issue due to the bellhousing hole being low...silly oops on Fords part IMO.

getting the exhaust manifold nuts off mine was the most infuriating part...think they used those kinda smashed self locking nuts... all four of mine were like loosen 1/8 turn,screech, back on 1/16 screech, oil, repeat... next time I'll drop the cradle in the rear, the 'little' 4.6 is taller than a bigblock, had to tip the tranny a LOT and still had to press a couple fingers of the pressure plate in to get the pilot past both removing and installing... was able to use the lift and do it while standing thankfully...cant imagine the PITA that would be working on the floor... last clutch I changed before this was my old F150, my back was sore for a week... doing it standing up was sure a huge improvement

BillyDaKid

The next time I'll use a braided stainless brake line for sure just to eliminate the plastic connection. I don't know if all models have the plastic line from the master cylinder and the plastic connector, but mine did. When I pressed the pedal the line blew off. Only about 3 square inches to get your fingers into between the bell-housing and firewall and it takes tremendous pressure to push it on past the o-ring.

ford4v429

on mine, with the tranny in place you cant even touch the plastic bleeder with a screwdriver... theres a rubber plug in the floorpan, but still looked way too tight... vacuum on a hill woks great.
those 'quick connects' are anything but... I had to put a clutch in my f150, dicked around with that stupid quick connector for a couple hours, ought every kind of tool made, salt had gotten into the barbed area and corroded it permanently- ended up having to buy another stupid line from ford... was sure to pack around the quick connect on the new slave(did same on my mustang too) with vaseline to keep moisture/salt out, after plugging the line in...